Codes.. emissions equipment

[Mavrick]

KOEO I have code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1
KOER I have codes 44 and 94

Following jrichker's directions, these are the values i got from the solenoid.

Red Wire - 14.3v (constant)
White/Red Wire - 0.6v (does not change what-so ever, held the meter on it for atleast 60seconds)

Whats my next step, in solving this problem?

Thanks

 

[jrichker]

Put the computer in test mode and the actuators will toggle when you first turn the key on. You will hear all the actuators rattle and click when you turn the key on.

Dumping the codes will put the computer in test mode.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

 

[Mavrick]

Thanks for the info.. but im not sure if it helps me much.

The signal i am getting from the white/red wire does not change, therefor i don't think the computer is telling the solenoid to give/take vacuum to the valve.. is this correct?

By dumping the codes and listening for the solenoids rattling/ticking, do you mean for me to hook the jumper up (to the self tester, as i would when pulling codes), and have someone turn the key on while i listen to the solenoids? I will try this tomorrow.

 

[Mavrick]

ttt

 

[jrichker]

By dumping the codes and listening for the solenoids rattling/ticking, do you mean for me to hook the jumper up (to the self tester, as i would when pulling codes), and have someone turn the key on while i listen to the solenoids? I will try this tomorrow.

You got it. The TAD & TAB solnoids should toggle along with all the other actuators. It will sound like a mechanical band under the hood. Then you can observe the change in voltage. No change in voltage at the designated wire and the computer is suspect.

The other option is to measure the solenoid resistance. Disconnect the electrical connector and measure across the pins. Unfortunately, I don't have the resistance specs at hand, but you should see more than 12 ohms and less than 1000 ohms. The figure 70 ohms comes to mind, but I am not certain about that.

 

[Mavrick]

Thanks for the reply. I still havn't gotten around to it, as my day has been busy.

I'll test the resistance tonight after dinner.

 

[Mavrick]

I am using my multi-meter, testing at the 2000K part in the OHMS section of the meter.

Solenoid 1 - 550-700, it never really stopped in one spot. Starts around 540 and climbs to 650 and beyond.
Solenoid 2 - No resistance (0)

I am still not sure which solenoid is supposed to control which valve. Could anyone tell me which valve is controlled by the solenoid with Red + White/Red wires going to it? Does it feed vacuum to the valve closest, or furthest away from the smog pump?

Thanks,


I got someone to turn the key on, in test mode, while i held the solenoids in my hands. Neither of them make noise, and i can not feel them doing anything at all.

 

[jrichker]

Diagram courtsey of Tmoss & Stang&2birds...

See more at http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/