Considering buying this 66 GT 350 and need some opinions

jbsteven · Nov 9, 2004

OK, here is a car that gets me going. I want a gt350 or a nice vert hipo. This car has been wrecked back in 1968 and has the front 2 fenders replaced (vin missing from front inside fender). It has also had the frame rails repaired as seen in the photos. A ladder has dented the rear and a little on the top as well.

I would drive this car so the frame stuff does not bother me that much. I don't want to buy a 350 and not drive it so maybe this is a chance to get one that can be driven without affecting the value too much. It has about 8000 miles on it.

Please give your opinions on how much either you would pay for it if you could afford a car like this or what you think a fair price would be.

66 gt 350 pictures

Jester67 · Nov 9, 2004

Just my 2-cent, be careful if the VIN is gone from the only place it is permanent on the car that would make me very very nervous.

reenmachine · Nov 9, 2004

I actually looked at every single picture.

A car with hack-job repairs like that would usually make me run away as fast as I could. However, it is a '66 Shelby, and they are getting really hard to come by (and pricey). Key things to do before even thinking of continuing:

- Confirm that it is indeed a genuine Shelby
- Check the Shelby American World Registry for info on the specific car
- Ask to see the title
- Find out if the title is unconventional in any way (e.g. salvage)
- Look for the VIN on the engine block (may not have originally been there though)
- Anything else you can think of to authenticate the car and its history

If you're looking for a car that you won't be afraid to take out and drive, it may be worth pursuing IF THE PRICE IS RIGHT. I'd pay about 1/2 to 2/3 of what you'd pay for an unmolested '66 Shelby in similar condition.

If you want to restore the car down the road, you'll have to do the front frame rails, aprons, and probably core support (basically the whole front clip) to make it right. You can restamp the VIN at that point. It'll likely need to go on a frame rack to make sure everything's straight. The car will never have the same value as an original metal car, but it's better than letting it die.

Also, with a car like this you never know what other nasty surprises await.

On the other hand, you could totally wipe out the whole front end in an accident of your own and not feel too bad about it, 'cause the whole front clip is junk anyway.

If you've got the cash, be patient and find a better car. If not, this may be an opportunity to get something you otherwise wouldn't be able to.

65Mustang2+2 · Nov 10, 2004

That car was on Ebay last week! Don't know if it sold though? You're gonna spend that much money on a car that was wrecked and then repaired. I guess you have money to burn or should I say waste!

gjz30075 · Nov 10, 2004

Definitely check with SAAC for its history. Howard Pardee I believe is the '66 Registrar.

jbsteven · Nov 10, 2004

Reen

thank you for the well thought out and rational response. I will take what you said and think it all through throughly.

65mustang
I am CONSIDERING buying the car at this point and need some different points of view and yes I have money to burn.

1320stang · Nov 10, 2004

I'm not so sure that is a real Shelby. One glaring thing is that it has the wrong rear end in it. The correct rear would have the dimple back, not the hump back. The hood isn't original, should have a steel frame, but that is probably expected since it was wrecked. Man, that front clip is a hack job though.

corbetts_auto · Nov 10, 2004

jbsteven said:
This car has been wrecked back in 1968 and has the front 2 fenders replaced (vin missing from front inside fender).

One thing that stands out to me is, those repairs look recent. You mentioned that it had been repaired in ’68. Look at the rust on the weld in picture #9. It looks like it’s only a few years old.
Look at picture #11 these welds have been prepped and painted black. Why wasn’t #9 done the same?

It’s hard to tell looking at pictures. The human eye is much better at determining quality that a camera lens. All and all I’m not sure it would sway me from making the purchase, but would be tools to help lower the price.

Don’t think that’s quit 2 cents worth of info, but hey, you get what you pay for.

Michael

BobV · Nov 10, 2004

My opinion? RUN!---------AWAY!

That car has been for sale for several months now. Has been on VMF and Ebay several times at prices from $50k to $70k. With all the exposure, the fact that it hasn't been sold should tell you something.The dubious history will hurt any future value. I'd question your plans to DRIVE a "collector-grade" car much too... You'd be better off buying a nicely done clone , instead of paying for those "serial numbers" (which have questionable authenticity in this case).

reenmachine · Nov 10, 2004

BobV said:
That car has been for sale for several months now. Has been on VMF and Ebay several times at prices from $50k to $70k. With all the exposure, the fact that it hasn't been sold should tell you something.The dubious history will hurt any future value.

I wouldn't pay anywhere near $50k to $70k for the car. If it turns out to be a real Shelby, the number in my head was $35k or so. The car needs $25k+ in work to make it respectable.

BobV said:
I'd question your plans to DRIVE a "collector-grade" car much too... You'd be better off buying a nicely done clone , instead of paying for those "serial numbers" (which have questionable authenticity in this case).

I disagree. Honestly, it all comes down to how much money you have, and your attitude towards the term "collector grade". I know lots of people that drive Shelbys, Boss 302s, CJ Mach Is, etc. all the time. One acquaintance owns a genuine 289 Cobra and a Ferrari 308, and his daily driver is a '66 GT-350H. The Cobra even gets 1-2 thousand miles a year put on it. It's all relative.

There's one bright side to this car, and that's if you're looking for a Shelby to drive into the ground, this is the one. Drive the piss out of it for a few years and then tear it apart and make everything right. I still wouldn't pay that much for it though.

sajack · Nov 10, 2004

FYI

The car sold on Ebay last month 50K

jbsteven · Nov 10, 2004

sajack said:
The car sold on Ebay last month 50K

the deal was never completed.

reenmachine · Nov 10, 2004

sajack said:
The car sold on Ebay last month 50K

Hmmm....and if the guy you're talking to is the same guy who listed it on eBay, the eBay buyer rejected the car upon personal inspection. If so, ask the seller why. Yet another red flag pops up...

Considering buying this 66 GT 350 and need some opinions

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