Coolant Temperature
- Thread starter Guero
- Start date
Blackened302
Active Member
Blackened302
Active Member
crap, man.
don't you have a fluidyne?
what thermostat are you running? what type of coolant/water mix?
are your fans turning on?
don't you have a fluidyne?
what thermostat are you running? what type of coolant/water mix?
are your fans turning on?
94-302-vert
Active Member
Timing can definitely cause a lot of heat...
I would suspect a difference between the radiator cap and the T-stat housing...
I would suspect a difference between the radiator cap and the T-stat housing...
I agree that there is a relatively wide array of readings throughout the system.
We use the ECT and stock sending unit location by convention (so one guy's not reading temps from one place and another is reading them elsewhere).
220* is a little warm but not out of the question Guero. I've found that almost on the nose, while going slow or stopped, the stock fan keeps the coolant about 100*F higher than the ambient temps (when it's 100* or warmer outside). So if it's 110* up there, 210-210* would not be horrid. It should cool down a bit once you get up to about 45 mph of easy cruising and low RPM (keep the tach under 2000 RPM).
Running water and WW is fine. Make REAL sure your cap is holding pressure. Otherwise, you could get into trouble.
Does it do better while idling or better while driving easy at 45 mph+ ?
We use the ECT and stock sending unit location by convention (so one guy's not reading temps from one place and another is reading them elsewhere).
220* is a little warm but not out of the question Guero. I've found that almost on the nose, while going slow or stopped, the stock fan keeps the coolant about 100*F higher than the ambient temps (when it's 100* or warmer outside). So if it's 110* up there, 210-210* would not be horrid. It should cool down a bit once you get up to about 45 mph of easy cruising and low RPM (keep the tach under 2000 RPM).
Running water and WW is fine. Make REAL sure your cap is holding pressure. Otherwise, you could get into trouble.
Does it do better while idling or better while driving easy at 45 mph+ ?
blksn955.o
Founding Member
IMHO ditch the 160 stat and get a 190...MAYBE a 180. I run a 190 with the fan settings from the faq section on what to set them too. On a 90-95* day it does not go higher than 192-194. Anything less than 90* out of the sun and it sits just over 180. No matter how much I get on it.
Both by my logs and the autometer guage I have.
I had a problem with the fans not in sync with the stat. Messing around I ran a tune with stock fan settings and one exactly the same with the 190 settings. The stock fan settings was at least 5* hotter within a min. or two and would start climbing 10* hotter. I would flip to the diff. fan setting tune and the temps would drop almost instantly.
I run the stock rad. 50/50 mix and it gets HOT and MUGGY in the STL.
Both by my logs and the autometer guage I have.
I had a problem with the fans not in sync with the stat. Messing around I ran a tune with stock fan settings and one exactly the same with the 190 settings. The stock fan settings was at least 5* hotter within a min. or two and would start climbing 10* hotter. I would flip to the diff. fan setting tune and the temps would drop almost instantly.
I run the stock rad. 50/50 mix and it gets HOT and MUGGY in the STL.
Methodical
15 Year Member
Wouldn't running water without antifreeze lower the boiling point, which could lead to overheating
. Personally, I'd be a little nervous just running water without antifreeze. But I know there's more than 1 way to skin a cat.
Wouldn't running water without antifreeze lower the boiling point, which could lead to overheating
Always remember we got Aluminum parts
You want those properties in Coolant that keeps the corrosion down or
your nice shiny parts will go to poo poo
Honestly ... our pcm fan temps are so high ............
Seems like a lot of the other stuff is not gonna be all that effective at
getting the temps down
Grady
Water Wetter inhibits corrosion. It's fairly common around here to run distilled water and a couple bottles of WW in the summer. Then guys go back to a conventional mix in less hot seasons (we're on a roll of 33+ straight days of triple-digit temps). It's not something I like to do (I feel that a system should cool properly at 50/50 mix) but I don't have an issue with it either (just speaking personally. We deal with the heat however we can). I do think a bottle of rust inhibitor/lube would be a good idea (you can get them for a few bucks).
The thing with coolant vs water: Water rejects heat about 2.5 times more efficiently than E/G coolant. That's huge. We just need the coolant for the reasons you all mentioned (rust inhibition, lubrication and freeze protection). It is remarkable how *little* antifreeze does to raise the boiling point. The pressure in the system is the main factor regarding an artificially high boiling point.
Now knowing that water transfers heat so much better than coolant, any displacement of water in favor of coolant is going to allow the car to run a little hotter than it would have had the water not been displaced. That slight raise in the boiling point from the coolant becomes moot.
As far as freeze protection, coolant coolant coolant. That's where it shines. And because it doesnt transfer as efficiently, it doesnt take as long for the car to warm up (read get you some heat inside the car).
Just MHO on this stuff.
BTW Guero, you answered no to a question that wasn't yes or no.
I was wondering if your car cooled down once you started moving.
The thing with coolant vs water: Water rejects heat about 2.5 times more efficiently than E/G coolant. That's huge. We just need the coolant for the reasons you all mentioned (rust inhibition, lubrication and freeze protection). It is remarkable how *little* antifreeze does to raise the boiling point. The pressure in the system is the main factor regarding an artificially high boiling point.
Now knowing that water transfers heat so much better than coolant, any displacement of water in favor of coolant is going to allow the car to run a little hotter than it would have had the water not been displaced. That slight raise in the boiling point from the coolant becomes moot.
As far as freeze protection, coolant coolant coolant. That's where it shines. And because it doesnt transfer as efficiently, it doesnt take as long for the car to warm up (read get you some heat inside the car).
Just MHO on this stuff.
BTW Guero, you answered no to a question that wasn't yes or no.
I was wondering if your car cooled down once you started moving.You should cool better at speed than while idling - it should not be the same, unless there's a limiting factor in the system.
I still gotta say though that 210 isn't outrageous considering your mods man.
If it's not hard to do, adding a little fuel might help. It's something I'd consider if you're not running real fat already (Grady and others can comment about whether they think this is a worthwhile thing to consider).
Hey, is your timing thing all fixed? Did Urban's puter take care of it? Is timing spot on again?
YES
(There, I answered for you).
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