Cooling parts questions........Come on in!

[5.02GO]

Sup.....I have flushed my cooling system with the prestone cleaner. Little if any crap came out. I assume my block is fairly clean.

My car runs hot. It will run hot at idle. While going down the road, it will run about half way on the temp gauge. Yes, its a stock gauge.

Okay, i am probobly going to replace the fan clutch. I have searched this subject and read some interesting things. Several people said that not to buy just any fan clutch and to try get a FORD clutch. And if possible get a "police, heavy duty" clutch. About the only place i can find the police model is at mustangs unlimited. They are $100. Thats a little steep. Any place else? Is my stock clutch a Thermal or Non thermal? I did find a HD clutch at summit. Part #FLX-5656. I know this is not motorsport or motorcraft. This should work, right?

Now, I read that people having trouble with cheap thermostats and to try to get a mr.gasket.

Several years ago, i found oil in my water bottle. I cleaned it and havent seen any oil in it since. Havent seen any water in my oil. I realize that i may have a blown head gasket and not even notice it. Havent seen any air bubbles in my radiator either. I will take a compression test tomorrow and post the results if i can find this thread.

Also, i have heard of people talking about fluidyne radiators. Do i really need that? I have a 3 row (cheap) radiator now. I installed it in june. It came from autozone. Will a two row fluidyne out perform a cheap three row?

I did in fact search all the above topics. I found some really interesting information. I did feel like i needed to ask these questions though........

One member mentioned a "block tester" that they had purchased at NAPA. What does this actually test? Does it work?
thanks guys.......

 

[HISSIN50]

My two cents. Your radiator is likely large enough.

Some folks do swear by the Ford clutches. I live in the desert so I dont care about parasitic loss (I want all the air moving across the coil that I can get) - I run an Imperial HD clutch from AZ. That with a metal FAL blade does great IMHO. If you dont see 115* temps, you might not need all that.
Our stock clutch is a thermal clutch.

As I am sure you know, If you have a 3G already, for the clutch money you can get a J/Y fan and spend a little more on one of Mr. Baskin's controllers and be set.

The Mr. G stats are outstanding. I think I was one of the first folks on this board to recommend them. I will not use any other stat in any car if I can help it. Great way to spend 10 bucks.

FWIW, my stock gauge at the 1/2 way mark was actually at about 220*F.

 

[5.02GO]

My two cents. Your radiator is likely large enough.

Some folks do swear by the Ford clutches. I live in the desert so I dont care about parasitic loss (I want all the air moving across the coil that I can get) - I run an Imperial HD clutch from AZ. That with a metal FAL blade does great IMHO. If you dont see 115* temps, you might not need all that.
Our stock clutch is a thermal clutch.

As I am sure you know, If you have a 3G already, for the clutch money you can get a J/Y fan and spend a little more on one of Mr. Baskin's controllers and be set.

The Mr. G stats are outstanding. I think I was one of the first folks on this board to recommend them. I will not use any other stat in any car if I can help it. Great way to spend 10 bucks.

FWIW, my stock gauge at the 1/2 way mark was actually at about 220*F.

I dont think that i am having problems with my thermo. It is the second one i have put in this year. Same results too. I guess its possible though. Think i am gonna buy one though. Mr. Gasket 180*.

Fan Clutch.....Heavy duty. Whats "police heavy duty?" I am pretty sure mine is bad. There is alot of "mudd" in the front of it. I have noticed it is real easy to spin. I can remember when it used to be alot harder to turn. I have found one at Late Model Restoration Supply for $64.00. Wich is way better than $100 at mustangs unlimited. I believe its a ford part. Luckily it doesnt get over 100* here in KY. However it got really close there and stayed this summer.

I feel like my radiator is good enough. It did get it at autozone though. So it might be junk.

The block.......I havent seen any of the symptoms that i have read here reguarding a cracked block or blown head gasket. No air bubbles and no water in oil. I did at one time have oil in the water bottle. It was several years ago and havent seen it since.

As i said befor, a member mentioned a block tester. Thats how they found out about a blown head gasket. Do you know anything about this?

Thanks for the help hissin'

Later..............

 

[HISSIN50]

I dont think that i am having problems with my thermo. It is the second one i have put in this year. Same results too. I guess its possible though. Think i am gonna buy one though. Mr. Gasket 180*.

Fan Clutch.....Heavy duty. Whats "police heavy duty?" I am pretty sure mine is bad. There is alot of "mudd" in the front of it. I have noticed it is real easy to spin. I can remember when it used to be alot harder to turn. I have found one at Late Model Restoration Supply for $64.00. Wich is way better than $100 at mustangs unlimited. I believe its a ford part. Luckily it doesnt get over 100* here in KY. However it got really close there and stayed this summer.

I feel like my radiator is good enough. It did get it at autozone though. So it might be junk.

The block.......I havent seen any of the symptoms that i have read here reguarding a cracked block or blown head gasket. No air bubbles and no water in oil. I did at one time have oil in the water bottle. It was several years ago and havent seen it since.

As i said befor, a member mentioned a block tester. Thats how they found out about a blown head gasket. Do you know anything about this?

Thanks for the help hissin'

Later..............

Ok, I agree that from what you said, your stat is ok. I only mentioned it because you did originally.

The fan clutch uses silicone in the viscous coupling. When you start seeing silicone leaking out the front hub, that means it is time for replacement.

I dont know particulars on the Police clutch vs HD (some have posted that it is identical - I dont know that nor would I say it unless I knew for sure). Since it is thermally operated, I still like the HD route, but I really dont know the threshold for when a standard clutch is no longer enough. Others in similar climates to you can answer that better. IIRC, Sam Snyder had some good feedback on the Ford fan clutches if interested in reading about them.

A radiator from AZ is probably a GDI (Go Dan Industries). Pretty decent stuff if you ask me.

I would use a cooling system pressure tester. If the system can hold pressure, that is a good indicator IMHO.

My two cents.

Good luck bud.

 

[5.02GO]

Ok, I agree that from what you said, your stat is ok. I only mentioned it because you did originally.

The fan clutch uses silicone in the viscous coupling. When you start seeing silicone leaking out the front hub, that means it is time for replacement.

I dont know particulars on the Police clutch vs HD (some have posted that it is identical - I dont know that nor would I say it unless I knew for sure). Since it is thermally operated, I still like the HD route, but I really dont know the threshold for when a standard clutch is no longer enough. Others in similar climates to you can answer that better. IIRC, Sam Snyder had some good feedback on the Ford fan clutches if interested in reading about them.

A radiator from AZ is probably a GDI (Go Dan Industries). Pretty decent stuff if you ask me.

I would use a cooling system pressure tester. If the system can hold pressure, that is a good indicator IMHO.

My two cents.

Good luck bud.

Thanks for chiming in again.......
Well.......I bit the bullit this morning and ordered a "police service" from mustangs unlimited. I read alot of complaints about "noise" coming from some off/brands.

I finally read some information about the block tester. You take a sample from your radiator and it can tell you if you have exhaust gases in the coolant.

I'll give some results when i get the clutch..........

thanks again...

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Before you spend all this money check this out.

I sell used radiators all the time at my work for all types of cars. Usually on older cars the radiator's and condensor's colling fins are clogged with dust,dirt, bugs and those white fuzzys. This isn't allowing any air to pass through. I always blow them out with compressed air and you wouldn't believe the crap in there!!!

Going buy your sig, it looks like you have extensive work done, so maybe it is type for a Steeda radiator. It worked wonders for my 96 Cobra which ran HOT before the supercharger. I installed the RAD the same time as the S/C, and man it really runs cool now. Good luck.

 

[5.02GO]

Before you spend all this money check this out.

I sell used radiators all the time at my work for all types of cars. Usually on older cars the radiator's and condensor's colling fins are clogged with dust,dirt, bugs and those white fuzzys. This isn't allowing any air to pass through. I always blow them out with compressed air and you wouldn't believe the crap in there!!!

Going buy your sig, it looks like you have extensive work done, so maybe it is type for a Steeda radiator. It worked wonders for my 96 Cobra which ran HOT before the supercharger. I installed the RAD the same time as the S/C, and man it really runs cool now. Good luck.

I may consider a radiator. It depends on what happens with the fan clutch. I purchased that radiator a few months ago. It is an autozone junker but i just cant see it not doing the job.

I dont think there is much blockage on the coils. The car just doesnt get driven much. However, i am getting ready to turn the compressor on and blow it out.
Thanks for the tip......

I appreciate your time.....thanks

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Any time man..also I forgot about the fan thing..I bought a new blade from Latemodel Restoration..www.50resto.com They have them for like 48 bucks shipped...they have clutches too..I forget how much, but you are right they are expensive for a peice of aluminum!! hehe

P.S. My friend had and Autozone RAD in his 90 GT and it did do the job, but he didn't have a supercharger or motor work. It is just as thick as my Steeda, but it is not aluminum, it's copper brass.

 

[HISSIN50]

The fact that a radiator keeps the car cool enough (presumably) at speed suggests that the issue is elsewhere if running hotter at idle (namely the clutch and U/D's if applicable).

Personally, I would not run a plastic fan blade again. The metal one does a much better job, but once again at the expense of parasitic drag (a clutched fan cant flow really well and not have drag, so one has to pick).

 

[5.02GO]

Actually, my motor does run hotter while driving. It runs midway and goes further occasionally. That motor NEVER ran that hot. I mean NEVER. It starts climbing at idle. And climbs quick.

I hate the smell of antifreeze. I hate the look of antifreeze. I hate getting antifreeze on me...........................I hate antifreeze!!!


Thanks again gentlemen..............I gotta go to work.

Have a pleasent evening.....

 

[HISSIN50]

Sounds good then. The stock gauge is something I care not to reference, so when you mentioned it being halfway at cruise, that sounded reasonable to me. My bad.

 

[5.02GO]

Sounds good then. The stock gauge is something I care not to reference, so when you mentioned it being halfway at cruise, that sounded reasonable to me. My bad.

Dont worry bout that. I know of people saying the stock gauge being inaccurate. And perhaps it is, but i have had this car with the same motor for 10 years. 7 of those 10 years i have ran a supercharger. I know when i look at that gauge if the motor is cooling properly or not. I am just accustom to it. Thats all.

I have a theory on this fan clutch situation.

At idle the motor starts to warm. If the clutch is bad then the fan will not turn as much thus, not pulling enough air across the coils. Obviously when this happens the coolant doesnt cool enough or very little. It cirulates in the motor then back out into the radiator. I realize while driving that the air cools the radiator. I experience very little cooling while driving. Basically what i am trying to say is that a "domino effect" starts to take place......

I am sure this theory has already been discussed here.

Cant wait for that thing to get here this week.


Thanks.........

 

[HISSIN50]

Good luck bud and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Anthony85stang]

We have a block tester at my work. Its acutall a big siringe looking thing that you put a special fluid into and you put it on where the radiator cap goes and suck some of the air from the radiator in and it will tell you if there is gas combustion gases in your cooling system thus telling you you would have a bad head gasket.

 

[notchback]

make sure the stat has that check ball in it or it will run hot at idle.

your right to keep it at 180* stock is like 191*
160* is too cold, car will run phat all the time

i'd guess your rad is fine, how is the coolant mix? make sure it's 50/50 then add some water wetter or the more expensive stuff...i can't remember the name it . white bollt looks like a mini coolant bottle

but water wetter from redline is great.

 

[5.02GO]

I heard of that block tester. That could come in handy. Heard it was like $50.

I have heard of other members drilling a hole or two into there thermostat. Should i do this?

Thanks again.......

 

[5.02GO]

"Police Service" fan clutch installed........
"Mr. Gasket" 180* installed.......


COOLING STATUS: Much better. The gauge barely moves up at idle. When i start down the road it drops. Temperature is much more consistant now. Oh, i can actually hear my fan now. Almost forgot what it sounded like. This is with an underdrive pulley system too. WooHaa! I am considering changing back to stock water pump pulley though. Just to see if it makes a difference.

Water Wetter. Should i use it? Does it work?


Appreciate the help from you all...........

Thanks..

 

[HISSIN50]

Congrats on running cooler!

Wetting agents: I am not a fan. If I have some issue, I tend to try and address it. But used as an extra measure of safety or in case it helps - go for it. I used Wetting agents a few times and never noticed much difference. It certainly cant hurt though.

Good luck.

 

[5.02GO]

Congrats on running cooler!

Wetting agents: I am not a fan. If I have some issue, I tend to try and address it. But used as an extra measure of safety or in case it helps - go for it. I used Wetting agents a few times and never noticed much difference. It certainly cant hurt though.

Good luck.

Thanks for all the help hissin...I appreciate it!

Also i was thinking about the "factory temp gauge not being accurate" theory, so i started looking thru my summit book. I may install a 2 pod gage cage in the AC vents. May put a temp gauge there and maybe a fuel pressure gage beside it. I already have the 2 pod that goes on the A frame. I have a "paxton" vac/boost gauge and a rich/lean gauge too.

Anyway, looking thru summit and pretty much any gauge that looks cool is like $200! That is flat out ridiculous!

 

[HISSIN50]

You have the ritzy taste. The last AM gauge I picked up was a Phantom for about 50 bucks.

The FP guage in the interior is going to be pricey due to the safety concerns.

FWIW, my stock temp gauge read as much as 45* cooler than what the motor was really at. I freak on this stuff since I live in the desert.

Good luck bud.