couple q's on a 1967, 289/c4 .......

[streetgrande69]

well, my buddies 67 289 coupe is gonna get a new oil pump, because he's concerned about psi a idel. so we're gonna do that. i plan on dropping the idler arm and the outter tie-rod when we do it, so we can get access. then, drop the cross member.
also gonna clean out the sump, and pick-up. were using a standard oil pump.

first question
do you think it would hurt if we , 1 by 1 poped off the main caps and looked at the mains. then torqued them back up.?

we're also gonna do a front seal in the timing chain cover
this leads me to my second question
when we get a gasket set, do we need one with or with-out the sleeve. i think he already has one with a sleeve.

then were gonna do a tranny filter/gasket. anything to watch out for when we drop the filter? i heard of a small ball bearing or something.


i'm a good machanic, i haven't done a tranny filter, but have done many suspension jobs, and a few rebulids. so i'm pretty confadent about this.

ps, bob, if you wanna go, let me know. we're gonna be at miramar.
if you see anything we should watch-out for, the info would be appriciated.

 

[Snail50]

I was hoping I'd be able to help you, because I have a 67/289/C4, but this stuff is beyond the scope of my experience, for now...so here's a bump for your post.

also, check your PMs.

 

[streetgrande69]

Well, thanks.


To answer your pm,
I didn't install my new m/c yet. I might do it tomorrow though, if the 67 is forgiving. As for the proportioning valve, it’s by the m/c, right under it. You can come straight out of the master, to the adj valve, to the rear brakes. Plug up the unused ports on the original proportioning block.

The front goes to the back, the back to the front. That master cylinder by the way is out of a 94-95 mustang. And the fittings are metric, 10mx1.0 and 12mx1.0 threads.


hope this helps some.
Eric

ps, i have a few pics of how i'm gonna plumb it on the site under "my grande".

 

[WORTH]

Just a suggestion, if your gonna pull the pan and check the bearings it would be a lot easier job to yank the engine. And looking at the mains wont tell you much. If they are scored bad they are probubly rapping cold, if they're not then looking wont help a bit. Your gonna have to plastigage them to check your clearences.

I would suggest pulling the engine, buy 1 standard main bearing and check them all with that bearing then buy the bearings you need and replace them. Or if you don't trust yourself pull the crank and give it to your machine shop and he will mike it and sell you the right bearings.

 

[Snail50]

Thanks a lot, Eric. BTW, your PM box is full and won't accept new messages.

 

[streetgrande69]

sorry worth, i didn't take your advise. i did drop the oil pan in the car.

as for pulling the motor we couldn't, we just had today to do it, and the car needs to be driven. so we went to the "hobbie shop" on miramar mcas, and put it on a lift. first dropper the tranny pan changed the filter, no prob.

then bolted it all back up, and went on to the oil pan. loosened the starter, took the pass. side outter tie rod off, then the idler arm, and the crossmember. that gaver us room to move the pan. wow that was covered in crap, 30 years worth of goo.

the rods are pretty bad, loose! the bearing look copper, so a rebuild is in the future.

we didn't do mains.

then we lowered it, pulled the t/c cover, and put in a new front seal. put everything back together, filled her up and everything went without a hitch. everything in about 6-7 hours.

i was kinda proud of myself, never have done so much repair without something breaking on me. well another good weekend working on keiths 67.