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Coyote swap questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter 89GreyFox
  • Start date Start date Jun 28, 2020
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#21
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #21
I'm on a Coyote swap Foxbody group with 100s if not 1000s of swaps on it. I have never seen someone use the factory ecu; it's always been the control pack or a stand alone. There has to be a reason for that.

Kurt
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
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#22
  • Jun 30, 2020
  • #22
revhead347 said:
I'm on a Coyote swap Foxbody group with 100s if not 1000s of swaps on it. I have never seen someone use the factory ecu; it's always been the control pack or a stand alone. There has to be a reason for that.

Kurt
Click to expand...
My buddy has a full gen 3 including the dash in his car . Remote start , trunk popper works everything .

rob at palm beach dyno did the tune for it.
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
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#23
  • Jun 30, 2020
  • #23
TOOLOW91 said:
My buddy has a full gen 3 including the dash in his car . Remote start , trunk popper works everything .

rob at palm beach dyno did the tune for it.
Click to expand...

Assuming he had a donor car? That's the key that I've seen in the tune, you have to have a majority of the body modules/ect to get it work, but it has been done. That's why I wasn't trying to discourage that guy, just let him know it's not as easy as getting the control pack.
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
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#24
  • Jun 30, 2020
  • #24
Hoytster said:
Assuming he had a donor car? That's the key that I've seen in the tune, you have to have a majority of the body modules/ect to get it work, but it has been done. That's why I wasn't trying to discourage that guy, just let him know it's not as easy as getting the control pack.
Click to expand...
Yes he bought a complete wreck.
 
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eighty5fox

Mustang Master
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#25
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #25
2000xp8 said:
I think the biggest concern here should be what if you buy all the stock stuff, spends days or weeks trying to make it run, then fail.
Not only will you be out all the money, but all the time and likely at this point frustration could derail the entire project.

When I did my swap, there wasn't much out there for swapping between mod motors and foxbody's.
While it did only take about 7 wires to make it run, that was months of reading diagrams from 2 cars and having 2 guys that work on mustangs for a living giving me advice and shop time (along with no cost tuning and dyno time). And that was an engine less complex and less computer controlled.
When I was done I had a harness that was lightened by about 75%.
In 2020 I likely would not do it the same way.

Running the fuel system return style was a no brainer to me.
I wouldn't be surprised if you could just use stock fox fuel lines with AN adapters with a 155lph pump and aeromotive regulator.

I truly wouldn't be surprised if in the end, the control pack turned out to be the cheaper solution.

eight5fox's total of 7k, sounds like a financial victory to me...
Click to expand...


Yes big financial victory but its just led me to upgrade everything I did and decided i wanted to change like the manual brakes and no ps other than that its all good went real easy with the Ford racing control pack you cant go wrong with it.
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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#26
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #26
eighty5fox said:
Id just buy the control pack it will save you lots of headaches and time I did the entire swap for around 7k with a tune that was before upgrading to a t56 and i did everything on a budget
Click to expand...
For the price of the control pack, I’d seriously consider the terminator x or ms3 gold box myself. Both are better options than the ford control pack imo. I’d take the option that I can tune over the ford unit. Not bashing the control pack or anything, I just know there are better options for the money.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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#27
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #27
96pushrod said:
For the price of the control pack, I’d seriously consider the terminator x or ms3 gold box myself. Both are better options than the ford control pack imo. I’d take the option that I can tune over the ford unit. Not bashing the control pack or anything, I just know there are better options for the money.
Click to expand...

I've gotten the opposite impression. There are guys putting over 1000hp down with the control pack.

Kurt
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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#28
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #28
revhead347 said:
I've gotten the opposite impression. There are guys putting over 1000hp down with the control pack.

Kurt
Click to expand...
I’m sure they are, but it’s not like you can plug your laptop into the control pack without dropping cash on hp tuners to do so. The Holley terminator x software is free, and tuner studios is $30. Hp tuners is significantly more expensive than that.

Imo, why limit yourself to essentially a stock eec when aftermarket standalone is the same price, If not cheaper.

I’m sure if you have a stock coyote and you plug in the ford control pack it’ll run great. If you plan on doing anything else down the line, you’ll be happy you never spent money on such a system though.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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#29
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #29
96pushrod said:
I’m sure they are, but it’s not like you can plug your laptop into the control pack without dropping cash on hp tuners to do so. The Holley terminator x software is free, and tuner studios is $30. Hp tuners is significantly more expensive than that.

Imo, why limit yourself to essentially a stock eec when aftermarket standalone is the same price, If not cheaper.

I’m sure if you have a stock coyote and you plug in the ford control pack it’ll run great. If you plan on doing anything else down the line, you’ll be happy you never spent money on such a system though.
Click to expand...

I'm up in the air about that myself. I'm not sure which way is better. The control pack with HP tuners is still cheaper than the $2k for the Terminator X though.

Kurt
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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#30
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #30
revhead347 said:
I'm up in the air about that myself. I'm not sure which way is better. The control pack with HP tuners is still cheaper than the $2k for the Terminator X though.

Kurt
Click to expand...
The hp tuners program for the control pack is $500 by itself. Terminator x is cheaper. A gold box is $1200, plus $200 for a wideband and another $30 for tuner studios. That’s the cheapest option and has way more options for i/o.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,300
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Acworth, GA
Jul 1, 2020
#31
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #31
96pushrod said:
The hp tuners program for the control pack is $500 by itself. Terminator x is cheaper. A gold box is $1200, plus $200 for a wideband and another $30 for tuner studios. That’s the cheapest option and has way more options for i/o.
Click to expand...

I'm leaning towards the Terminator X simply because you can plug it into a digital dash. I don't need another gauge headache. It would be nice to be able to run cruise control and stuff.

Kurt
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
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#32
  • Jul 1, 2020
  • #32
IMO, really depends on what you're doing and what you already have as far as parts. If you need the additional I/O and control, then go stand alone. You can do digital dashes with the control pack, there are some options out there. The control pack comes with the relay box, wideband sensors, MAF, and pedal, so factor that all together and the control pack is a deal for all that you get. If you already have that stuff and/or are planning to upgrade, go stand alone.
 
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eighty5fox

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#33
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #33
Hoytster said:
IMO, really depends on what you're doing and what you already have as far as parts. If you need the additional I/O and control, then go stand alone. You can do digital dashes with the control pack, there are some options out there. The control pack comes with the relay box, wideband sensors, MAF, and pedal, so factor that all together and the control pack is a deal for all that you get. If you already have that stuff and/or are planning to upgrade, go stand alone.
Click to expand...

Hoytster is right control pack comes with all of the essentials for what you pay. It does also depend what you are doing. The nice thing about the control pack is its ready to go once you connect everything and I am sure it will hold up better long term. With that being said I am sure there is limits to what could be done with it. I am planning on throwing boost at my swap and the control pack will do everything needed without having to upgrade yet.
 
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2000xp8

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Jul 2, 2020
#34
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #34
Out of curiosity, which control setup is more plug and play that doesn't require extra purchases?

While I've seen (not personally used) the control pack, it really appears to be very simple, even for amateurs.

Is the control pack compatible with the engine from a gt350?
 

eighty5fox

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#35
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #35
I believe the ford pack is the most complete as stated above it includes the o2 sensors, electronic gas pedal, neutral safety switch computer fuse box wiring (obviously) and stock intake. I think i listed everything. In the end I recall only having to splice in maybe 3 wires hook up some grounds do the fuel line made easy with a c5 fuel filter and a quantum fuel pump hanger and exhaust and k member. The gauges were swapped to a dakota digital not cheap but worth it
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
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Jul 2, 2020
#36
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #36
2000xp8 said:
Out of curiosity, which control setup is more plug and play that doesn't require extra purchases?

While I've seen (not personally used) the control pack, it really appears to be very simple, even for amateurs.

Is the control pack compatible with the engine from a gt350?
Click to expand...


The Ford control pack is the most plug and play for a stock coyote swap. That's really the intent of it, to make it easy to swap a coyote engine into another vehicle since it has all the required electronics, air box, and is calibrated for a return style fuel system. If you don't need extra I/O or control, then it's very capable of supporting boosted applications beyond 1000 HP with custom calibrations.

Ford doesn't officially support the voodoo engine with their control packs. Since you can't buy a voodoo crate engine, the only thing I've seen people do is do a complete swap from a donor car or use a standalone ecu to control it.
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
5 Year Member
May 15, 2018
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Jul 2, 2020
#37
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #37
2000xp8 said:
Out of curiosity, which control setup is more plug and play that doesn't require extra purchases?

While I've seen (not personally used) the control pack, it really appears to be very simple, even for amateurs.

Is the control pack compatible with the engine from a gt350?
Click to expand...
The ford control pack most likely. Reading through the terminator x though, it doesn’t appear to be much further away. It comes with wideband, as well at the variable cam controller. I kind of like that it gives you options to run the maf or sd, without needing any modification to the harness.

It’s for sure dependent on what you’re looking to do. I like having options to adjust things as I please, so the Holley or ms are good for me. I Also like having options for multi stage nitrous and boost control out of the box. If you want factory calibration, and aren’t worried about maybe having to pay to change settings down the road (if at all), then the ford control pack is probably right for you.

At the end of the day the engine will run well with whatever you choose.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
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#38
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #38
Just to be clear, i'm not doing a coyote swap.
I'm always curious about it, but a coyote with a power adder is too close to what I already have, I really could just buy a $2500 used whipple and get to where my goals would be.

I do like different and like anyone else I get bored and start coming up with other ideas that usually entail something completely non sensible.

On the other hand a gt350 swap with some light mods and 8000+rpm all motor has always had my attention. But i'm not all for buying a complete wreck, tearing it down and figuring out how to make it work. I'm not even sure any other trans than the one in the gt350 is good for 8000rpm shifts (on the street). I don't even think a liberty tko600 cuts it.
 
S

Scherzkeks

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#39
  • Jul 14, 2022
  • #39
Hey everyone,
This is an old post but relevant to what I'm doing. Are there any build threads that detail using the stock PCM and harness? I'm looking at doing a Coyote swap into an E90 BMW but I live in Germany and the requirements are really stringent. I have to use all factory controls as well as the complete donor engine, transmission, differential, and cats. Otherwise the car has to go through emissions certification and even electromagnetic interference testing. So a stand alone ECU is not really viable. I even checked with Holley and they do not certify the Terminator to any kind of EMI standard. So I'm curious what's involved in using the stock PCM. Maybe the unnecessary body modules can be disabled or spoofed with a CAN BUS module. Thanks for any tips.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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Jul 15, 2022
#40
  • Jul 15, 2022
  • #40
Scherzkeks said:
Hey everyone,
This is an old post but relevant to what I'm doing. Are there any build threads that detail using the stock PCM and harness? I'm looking at doing a Coyote swap into an E90 BMW but I live in Germany and the requirements are really stringent. I have to use all factory controls as well as the complete donor engine, transmission, differential, and cats. Otherwise the car has to go through emissions certification and even electromagnetic interference testing. So a stand alone ECU is not really viable. I even checked with Holley and they do not certify the Terminator to any kind of EMI standard. So I'm curious what's involved in using the stock PCM. Maybe the unnecessary body modules can be disabled or spoofed with a CAN BUS module. Thanks for any tips.
Click to expand...


I think you'll have better luck on Facebook. Amazingly, i don't think anyone here has done a coyote swap....yet.

"Coyote swapped Foxbodys", "Coyote swapped" and "Coyote swapped Sn95" are three good groups to check out with hundreds if not thousands of guys who have done the swap.

What sort of emissions testing does Germany do? Is it just an OBD2 check or an actual tailpipe sniffer?

I think the closest you will come is using a Ford Racing control pack such as this.

CONTROL PACK - 2015-17 COYOTE 5.0L MANUAL TRANSMISSION

CONTROL PACK - 2015-17 COYOTE 5.0L MANUAL TRANSMISSION|Ford Performance Parts
performanceparts.ford.com

It's essentially using an OE type ECU and wiring, and I would assume the engineers at Ford putting this kit out would account for EMI even though they don't certify it (because they haven't done the test). You can certainly use Donor car wiring. You can kind of search around and see what folks ship with a "turn-key" pallet from a wrecked car. I don't think they provide every wiring harness, but they do provide a significant amount.

I need to dig into this myself in a bit as I think I want to Coyote swap something that will require an OBD2 plug in test so I need to see which option will allow me to go this route.
 
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