Crank no start

Creomod

5 Year Member
Sep 14, 2018
325
22
38
San Antonio,Texas
Ok guys,last week my car didn’t want to start. I checked thro the checklist,it turned on and worked all week. No issues. It started after I messed with the fp. I pulled in out checked it and started right up all week. Now out of no where I started it this morning and it immediately shut off. I changed fuel filter,and the little filter on the fuel pump itself the flat white one. Won’t start. Fuel pressure at gauge 36 psi with key on,new fp,new fuel regulator,checked blew sucked on its vac hose no fuel there,I checked for 12 volts key on injector connector,checked tps it’s at 1.2 volts,I swapped the fuel relay for a used one,did the same ecc relay,inertia in bypassed as for spark I have spark,I do have a msd box 6a I did have the orange wire and black wires crossed on the coil but I think I have had them crossed from the beginning.In the pic I have them in right spot. My ecu was redone 2 years back,fuses ok,I ran codes and I am getting 21,24,67,81,82,85 smog stuff disconnected for 81,82,85,but 21,24 ect act. I was running all week with same codes and my car was working fine. Also swapped iac,changed tfi module,I haven’t checked the pip using the noir light yet but I was thinking it was fuel related science last time I changed the fp then worked any advise would be great,I need to get to work Tomorrow and I’m outside not being able to enjoy the super bowl tv stuff :(
 

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Ok guys,last week my car didn’t want to start. I checked thro the checklist,it turned on and worked all week. No issues. It started after I messed with the fp. I pulled in out checked it and started right up all week. Now out of no where I started it this morning and it immediately shut off. I changed fuel filter,and the little filter on the fuel pump itself the flat white one. Won’t start. Fuel pressure at gauge 36 psi with key on,new fp,new fuel regulator,checked blew sucked on its vac hose no fuel there,I checked for 12 volts key on injector connector,checked tps it’s at 1.2 volts,I swapped the fuel relay for a used one,did the same ecc relay,inertia in bypassed as for spark I have spark,I do have a msd box 6a I did have the orange wire and black wires crossed on the coil but I think I have had them crossed from the beginning.In the pic I have them in right spot. My ecu was redone 2 years back,fuses ok,I ran codes and I am getting 21,24,67,81,82,85 smog stuff disconnected for 81,82,85,but 21,24 ect act. I was running all week with same codes and my car was working fine. Also swapped iac,changed tfi module,I haven’t checked the pip using the noir light yet but I was thinking it was fuel related science last time I changed the fp then worked any advise would be great,I need to get to work Tomorrow and I’m outside not being able to enjoy the super bowl tv stuff :(
I’m going to remove the msd and go back to stock configuration and swap out the coil to eliminate the msd box and the coil. Just to make sure I didn’t fry the coil by having the 2wires backwords
 
I would say go back to the checklist but first thing I would do is hit it with some starting fluid, if it starts and runs for a couple seconds then it's fuel related, can you hear the fp run?
yes,I can hear it sounds loud when i turn key on,I do have 36 on the gauge with key on is that low?It seems like i have pressure when i pulled lines off of the fuel pump it literlly blasted out.If it were to be ect,act could that cause car not to start?Or turn off?I do have 12 v on the red/gree coil wire
 
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Go back to the list, do it step by step.
Brother,I had my wife crank the car so I could check the injectors fireing,with the noid light. She cranked it first time,I was watching light no pulsing,I just saw the initial draw then no flicker,told her to crank it again,and It started! While it was on I removed the spout(no change) I pulled the little wire of the screw on the starter solonid and it still stayed on.
 
That 'little wire' on the screw(?) just engages the starter. Have you looked under the distributor cap for corrosion/flashing on the rotor or electrodes or that thing in there that gets all crusty white junk on it.
Also check power to the coil when cranking.
Ahhhh, do the list, it pretty much covers everything.
 
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Ok I’m looking at k on the checklist,the car is actually on,and I removed the little wire on the screw on the starter solonid and I didn’t shut off ,it’s not exactly as it’s read on the checklist . Not sure if something wrong,I work across town and don’t want to get stranded.
 
That 'little wire' on the screw(?) just engages the starter. Have you looked under the distributor cap for corrosion/flashing on the rotor or electrodes or that thing in there that gets all crusty white junk on it.
Also check power to the coil when cranking.
Ahhhh, do the list, it pretty much covers everything.
That 'little wire' on the screw(?) just engages the starter. Have you looked under the distributor cap for corrosion/flashing on the rotor or electrodes or that thing in there that gets all crusty white junk on it.
Also check power to the coil when cranking.
Ahhhh, do the list, it pretty much covers everything.
Yes sir,I looked under cap it’s pretty new. On the coil power to the coil,does that mean power going to the coil check or seeing how much juice my coils putting out?And one thing about that little wire on the solonid that I know for a fact,it will not start with out it being on the screw,I left the car on 10 min with wire off the screw. I also set my msd box back and it started again. I’m thinking it’s distributor pip just cuz I didn’t see it flickering when I cranked the car. I haven’t seen it but I think from what I have read it’s supposed to be pulsating as it cranks correct me if I’m wrong please on that and taking wire off screw while on could be?
 
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You're checking for 12volts to the coil. With the little wire removed from the post, you should have 12 volts at the coil in the start and the run key position.
Now about the little wire on the solenoid, there are like two ignition circuits, one when cranking and one when the engine fires up when the key is released, take that wire off the post, have your wife or the family dog hold the key to the start position, now take a screwdriver and jump the solenoid, if it starts and runs while holding the key in the start position it is running on the cranking side of the key switch, let go of the key and it dies then it will likely be the ignition switch on the lower part of the column under the dash.
 
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You're checking for 12volts to the coil. With the little wire removed from the post, you should have 12 volts at the coil in the start and the run key position.
Now about the little wire on the solenoid, there are like two ignition circuits, one when cranking and one when the engine fires up when the key is released, take that wire off the post, have your wife or the family dog hold the key to the start position, now take a screwdriver and jump the solenoid, if it starts and runs while holding the key in the start position it is running on the cranking side of the key switch, let go of the key and it dies then it will likely be the ignition switch on the lower part of the column under the dash.
Thanks for clarifying that for me,sorry I guess I didn’t understand it the way it was explained in the checklist,or I didn’t understand it. Either way I’ll try tomorrow. I did see corrosion on the cap,a good amount. I guess I thought it was new cuz I bought it like 2 years ago.Thank you for responding to me,I really do appreciate you taking time out your day to do that.
 
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