Crankshaft Query for a 393W

[BrownPSU78]

Here is the deal...I am a 19 year old building a 393W stroker for my 69...For now it is going to be rather mild mannered...But down the road (5-6 years) there is a nitrous kit in its path...This is a car that will be driven daily...I only wanna build the short block once and I'll build it right...I wanna keep costs down, but for extra protection (and a few more hp\ tq) I'll splurge a little...

Here is my question:
I Have been looking at the various cranks, the question is which one really suits me. I've been looking at the scat and eagle cranks, what other companies are good?
AND
Scat has the 9000 cast, 9000 cast lightweight, 4340 forged, 4340 lightweight,leightweight pro comp billet, super billet, featherlight billet, q-light billet, and center counterweight billet....Which one is for me and why?????

THanks in Advance
--Brown

 

[BrownPSU78]

help anyone?

 

[brianj5600]

Patience Grasshopper. Are you using stock rods and pistons? I'd get a 408 kit instead if you are buying rods and pistons. IMO cranks are much like hammer heads, they rarely fail. Either scat or eagle should be fine. Cast should be plenty for a driver with a plate.

 

[BrownPSU78]

hehe...The rods and pistons will both be purchased from the aftermarket...I was hoping to make this motor ROCK SOLID, so im kinda a little worried about a 408...At what point do people start looking at forged instead of cast...So are you are saying that for my 393W stroker Daily Driver that will eventually see nitrous I can use this eagle cast steel crankshaft-ESP-103513850. That is an Eagle crank costing only 299.95 dollars...

Eagle Cast steel crankshaft
Rear Main Seal Style: 2-piece
Engine Stroke (in): 3.850
Crankshaft Material: Cast steel
Engine Balance: Internal
Balance Style: Neutral
Lightened: No
Requires Narrow Bearings: Yes
Rod Bearings Included: No
Main Bearings Included: No
Crossdrilled Mains: No
Rod Journal Diameter (in): 2.10
Main Journal Diameter (in): 3.00
Balancer Bolt Thread Size: 5/8-18 in.
Crankshaft Snout Style: Standard
...have .125 radii on all rod and main journals. Each crank is inspected for dimension, size, and stronke accuracy, has a journal finish of 6 R.A. or less, and has a target bobweight of +/- 2-percent for reduced balancing time...

Thank you in advance
--Brown

[EDIT] Sorry I can't get that link to work...Search for Part# ESP-103513850 at summitracing.com

 

[gzminiz]

393 vs 408 is so minimal on the stroke dunno if it would make is less reliable. You are talking 3/20's of an inch. Scat vs Eagle is like Flowmaster vs Magnaflow. I read about each and from what i have read it Scat is the one I am going with. To make it bullett proof you would want to go with the forged 4340. However on a daily driver it probably is overkill. Only thing i know about nitrous is you will probably want to run forged piston so you don't burn one.

The entire rotating assembly i am looking at (4340 forged crank, h beams and JE SRP dish pistons) is going to run around $1700. That includes bolts, bearings and rings

 

[LMan]

Cranks are not a weak point on Ford small blocks. I'd be more worried about your caps and rod bolts.


IMO a cast steel crank is fine for your intended use.

 

[dennis112]

When using a stock Ford block, a Scat or Eagle cast crank will be plenty (Scat 9000 cast gets my vote.) The stock 351w block will give out long before you will have issues with the cast crank. If you were moving on to a stronger block (ie dart), a forged crank should be on your wish list. Forget the lightweight stuff for the street, and apply the money you save elsewhere--like for better heads.

The H beam forged rods should last a lifetime. As far a pistons go, performance forged units are a must with nitrous.

You might want to consider checking out www.adperformance.com . Brian has great prices, knows his sh$$, and has great customer service.

 

[BrownPSU78]

glad to hear that cast steel will do...guess that settles that...
--Brown

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I wanna keep costs down, but for extra protection (and a few more hp\ tq) I'll splurge a little...

Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick two.

Before I give my opinion, what other parts are going on this 393? I'm goin to put one in my car eventually, but the heads will probably cost me more than the shortlock.

 

[BrownPSU78]

Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick two.

Before I give my opinion, what other parts are going on this 393? I'm goin to put one in my car eventually, but the heads will probably cost me more than the shortlock.

Here is the thing. I am building this motor from the bottom up, mostly because i have a few year time line...one conservative setup in consideration is
Comp cams xe274hr roller cam
performer rpm intake
750 cfm edelbrock carb
world products sr heads

however i was maybee a setup based around AFR 185s or 205s (iirc)

I believe power is made in the heads...so that what i focus my money on down the line i guess

end of this summer-completion of short block
end of next summer-completion of long block
end of the summer after that-motor in and running and TUNED

 

[Jc69Stang]

Get the AFR 205. I think they will serve you better in the long run. When you add the nitrous, and mabe go with a bigger cam, more stroke etc...

 

[dennis112]

I second the AFR 205's. Cost a little more, but will serve you very, very well. With them you won't never be concerned (on the street) whether you heads are holding you back.