Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Broke Off...

[Monday]

Crank Sensor Bolt Busted Off... and I have an idea but I don't wanna blow my car up. The fella whom helped me out designing my exhaust suggested I weld a washer on first, then weld a nut on that, filling it in.

This scares me. I'm fairly proficient with my welders but this has "fire and explosion" written all over it.

I really need suggestions. As it is, the car is off the road until this gets done no-matter-what.


Anything might help.

Thanks

 

[Monday]

-inud

 

[manicmechanic007]

That will not be easy to get out
Short left hand drill bit and an angle drill
Grind it flat first and use a center punch
The weld procedure is a good option if you can get a mig tip in there
Watch a few videos about the special tool for removing exhaust studs 5.4 Triton and some dodges

 

[manicmechanic007]

You can grind a screwdriver slot in what is left of the bolt with a dremel tool
Heat up the aluminum with a propane torch and cool it back down with WD-40 or rust penetrant
Work the bolt back and forth with the screwdriver
Back to more heat and try again and again
It will come out

 

[Neuron]

Drill it out then helicoil it.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Here is a YouTube video of some exhaust studs being removed the easy way
You could use this procedure for your front cover and because you have broken stud protruding it would be easier

 

[manicmechanic007]

EZ Stud Out is the video
I could not upload the video
EZ Stud out 5.4 Ford is a good video to watch

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Here is a YouTube video of some exhaust studs being removed the easy way
You could use this procedure for your front cover and because you have broken stud protruding it would be easier

Have you used the kit? Is the plate copper or aluminum so it does not get welded to the steel?

 

[manicmechanic007]

No I have not used it
I just use the same method
That special tool is aluminum
Next 5.4 I play with I may buy the tool just because
They also make the plates for several other motors

 

[Monday]

Well, it's some great watching... for sure, but I started applying ATF/Acetone yesterday afternoon, will continue thru today (Sunday) and maybe try some vice grips at both ends then back and forth repeat for Monday.

The video has given me an idea to try and make my own little stud tool for the stud 'cuz it's just so close to the timing cover.

Thanks for the share!!!

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Well, it's some great watching... for sure, but I started applying ATF/Acetone yesterday afternoon, will continue thru today (Sunday) and maybe try some vice grips at both ends then back and forth repeat for Monday.

The video has given me an idea to try and make my own little stud tool for the stud 'cuz it's just so close to the timing cover.

Thanks for the share!!!

Don’t forget the heat cycling. Any acetone in the ATF that does not soak in evaporates fairly quickly. I’ve never set an instrument or other stuck mechanical item on fire using this combo.

 

[Monday]

Well, I got the bolt out. Thanks for all the replies. Every one of them.

You were all very encouraging!!

PS I also found out from the "Idea Guy" (exhaust guy whom suggested welding) the Flux-core just makes it harder. I had to improvise. I welded the washer on the nut first, then 'Gorilla Glue'd the nut and washer on to the aluminum cover. After a few minutes, to set the nut, I welded the whole thing onto the broken stud...

IT CAME RIGHT OUT!!! I would also like to think my ATF/Acetone mixture helped a great deal by just spraying on the broken stud and the lightweight silvery white metal of main Group 13 (IIIa, or boron group) of the periodic table housing.

It came out sooooooooooooooooo easy!