Engine Crappy new parts

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
15 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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nevada
Got a new low coolant sensor/cap and it doesn't work, light on dash stays on.
Yes the two prong end is sitting in coolant.
Is it a scrappy new part or something else?
The part # fozz -10968 is a Daniel carpenter part, for a 90/93.
 
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Hey nickyb,
The 87-89's GT's have a module that handles all of the fluid sensors, so maybe the 90-93's use one also. The 87-89's used Ford module E7ZZ-10E850-A (I have seen some other alfa/numeric numbers associated with this part number but I don't know what they mean: SE W/O 048432 & SE W/O 113130). I have no idea if your car has the same, or similar module, but if all the rest of the sensor signal paths check out, it may be another item to check. This link is for an LX fluid levels retrofit but has some good info for the 87-89's module location.
#https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/87-89-low-fluid-light-module-install.892889/
 
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The 90-93 cars do not use a fluid module.

Light blue wire is output wire to the cluster to trigger the light.

Red/yellow is 12v feed from fuse 18

Black goes to ground.


The two prongs on the end of the sensor relief on the conductivity of the coolant mix to make the connection. If the sensor was dry, no condition was made and the light would trigger on. If you manually touch the two prongs with a metal wire and the light does it go off, it’s a bad sensor
 
The 90-93 cars do not use a fluid module.

Light blue wire is output wire to the cluster to trigger the light.

Red/yellow is 12v feed from fuse 18

Black goes to ground.


The two prongs on the end of the sensor relief on the conductivity of the coolant mix to make the connection. If the sensor was dry, no condition was made and the light would trigger on. If you manually touch the two prongs with a metal wire and the light does it go off, it’s a bad sensor
Since the modules appear to be hard to find these days (at least nos anyway), I wonder if the 90-93 wiring for fluid levels could be adapted to the earlier years?
 
The 90-93 cars do not use a fluid module.

Light blue wire is output wire to the cluster to trigger the light.

Red/yellow is 12v feed from fuse 18

Black goes to ground.


The two prongs on the end of the sensor relief on the conductivity of the coolant mix to make the connection. If the sensor was dry, no condition was made and the light would trigger on. If you manually touch the two prongs with a metal wire and the light does it go off, it’s a bad sensor
Thanks Mike, I checked red/yellow wire for power, it was good. Checked ground( black wire) ,it was good, so the brand new sensor was crap.
Got new replacement sensor installed today and all is good again.
I've said it before this is the best place for real useful info.
 

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