Crate '69 Camaro soon Crate '67 Mustang FB?!

67StangFan28

Founding Member
Jul 23, 2002
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Saint Louis, MO
Dynacorn making a '69 Camaro kit car, soon '67 Mustang FB kit car!

Anyone see the latest HOT ROD magazine with an article about how Dynacorn is going to be producing Classic bodies?! Their first production is a '69 Camaro vert that is accurate to within .020"....I’m not quite sure what to make of the whole thing cause they say mustangs are next including the Fastback. I mean...now I could build that classic with all the modern stuff I wanted and not have to worry about hacking up a REAL classic but I’m still in shock. :shrug: :scratch:
 
I'm surprised no one has done it before now with all the lamborginis and cobras and gazells running around. I have my doughts that it will be within 20 thousandths though. It has been my experience that most aftermarket items, including bodies have to be massaged a bit.
 
Str0ngArm said:
In the mag they gave a pricing for the vert at around $1200 since the roof is the hardest part to produce, they said the coupes/sportroofs would be between $1000-$2000 more.

So +/- $2,500 for a very bare, but perfectly rust free new fastback body? Does that include any hood/fender/valances body panels, or is that the barest of bare shell? If you had a rusty but otherwise good donor, that could be very worth while. :nice:
 
It is steel (AMERICAN STEEL :flag:, with a few minor exceptions)and comes with front fenders, hood, deck lid and door shells other than that its BARE so no front fascia (sp?). Still, $2500-$3500 for a perfectly rust free fastback?! I'D JUMP ON IT! Think about all the work you WOULDN'T have to do, no warping to worry about or rust repair, bondo or unscrupulous previous owners....
 
Str0ngArm said:
It is steel (AMERICAN STEEL :flag:, with a few minor exceptions)and comes with front fenders, hood, deck lid and door shells other than that its BARE so no front fascia (sp?). Still, $2500-$3500 for a perfectly rust free fastback?! I'D JUMP ON IT! Think about all the work you WOULDN'T have to do, no warping to worry about or rust repair, bondo or unscrupulous previous owners....


Don't tell Hop. The market she is a falling. :D
 
A few years ago a group of shop owners on Long Island, NY tried to make fiberglass bodies of the stang. Never happened though.

Put a new body on a tube frame, (your choice drag or road race) & build the ultimate Restro-Mod. Very cool. :nice:
 
Thing is they are making the whole car, unibody frame and all. I guess if you really wanted you could cut off the standard frame and weld it to a tube frame but couldn't you just also add sub-frame connectors and re-enforce the existing frame?

Also the camaro is already in production (as of the publishing of octobers HOT ROD I guess) and they still need to develope the mustang.
 
From the October '04 HOT ROD

"This is the moment that forever changes the face of street machining. By the time you read this, you'll be able to buy a reproduction '69 Camaro convertible bare body or a complete turnkey car. Hardtops are coming next, and new '67 Mustang fastback bodies are already in the works. It doesn't take much to figure out that the '69 Camaro platform could easily be manufactured as a '67 or '68, or even as a first-gen Firebird." *whipes drool from face*

And I need to correct myself on the pricing, I was too excited and miss read it. Its actually $12,000 for the bare shell vert with decklid and doors but no front clip.

"The big question: How much are they? The convertible bodies will sell for around $12,000 as bare shells with doors and a decklid but without a front clip. Due to the cost of the roof stamping, the hardtops available early in 2005 will be a few thousand more."
 
The GM's a little bit different animal than the 'Stang in that the front subframe bolts in - it's only a half a unibody. With this in mind, I would speculate the full unibody would cost even more than the Camaro reproduction in question here.

Still...
 
Thought it was too good to be true. :( But still would be a deal for someone restoring a Shelby, etc. Put all the good Shelby stuff on it & vin numbers & your good to go.

If their panels are of high quality it still may be very economical to do a tube frame car. You can buy used tube frame race cars for pennies on the dollar. Register as a kit car & your rocking & rolling. :banana:
 
PONY XPRESS said:
Thought it was too good to be true. :( But still would be a deal for someone restoring a Shelby, etc. Put all the good Shelby stuff on it & vin numbers & your good to go.

Putting a Shelby VIN on some repop shell would be rebodying it, which is illegal... It would never be a Shelby no matter how much Shelby stuff you bolt to it, so putting a Shelby VIN on and calling it a Shelby would be real bad; no different than putting a Mach 1 VIN on a sportroof decked out to look like one, etc.
 
nosaj122081 said:
Putting a Shelby VIN on some repop shell would be rebodying it, which is illegal... It would never be a Shelby no matter how much Shelby stuff you bolt to it, so putting a Shelby VIN on and calling it a Shelby would be real bad; no different than putting a Mach 1 VIN on a sportroof decked out to look like one, etc.

Not sure that it would be illegal in the sense of getting the car registered. I would assume most people buying these cars have a donor car & would use that vin to register it.

Now as far as a morale issue there is a problem. I am against any kind of "clone" being called an original. But if I had a rust bucket Shelby or big block car I would have to seriously consider using this new body. When you look at the cost to restore & I have seen some restorations when almost everything has been replaced, at what point is it still an original car.

Oh well I guess this isn't as bad as ole Shelby finishing his CSX series. Gave a few Cobra owners a weggy.
 
67coupestang said:
i came across the place that sells the fiberglass fastback bodies, nice but I dont know if i"d do it for road racing or even daily driving... too much to crack.

Those don't have floors in them. If the chassis is designed properly with no flex at the body mounting points, it shouldn't crack. But they are very heavy. The 'glass is 1/4"-3/8" in some places, I don't know why they call them race car bodies.

Larry