Critique & suggestions needed on possible suspension set up

[Jaym14]

Looking for opinions and suggestions. I will be doing this sometime in early 2011 so I'm in the planning stages now.

Car is a weekend car mostly street driven with some trips to the strip.
I'm not interested in a drag set up nor am I greatly concerned with ride quality.
I dont auto cross but want the car to handle decently during "spirited" driving.

Here's what I have in mind....

Lowering springs (want opinions here on which.. thinking either C springs or Mach1/Bullit)

Shocks/struts (again want opinions here on which to go with)

M&M C/C plates

Stock front (v8) sway bar with prothane bushings (already in car)

M&M Panhard Bar

M&M Non adjustable Lowers

M&M Uppers

Rear Sway bar (Unknown) I currently dont have a rear sway bar (been like that since I purchased the car). I'm not sure if I'll need one after the panhard bar is installed???? If so which bar with the set up I've suggested??

Also of note.. car will have 17X9 Cobra R rims and cobra brakes with 94 spindles.

I'm not interested in a coil over set up.... try and talk me out of it if you want but as of now even if I eventually go with a tubular K I'll probably get one that retains the stock spring set up.

Thanks guys!

 

[Cobra912]

I can't comment on the shocks / struts unless you wanted a strip set-up but it seems like you have a nicely laid plan for the rest of it. Not neccessary to go coil over but obviously lowering springs aren't ideal for the strip. Ditching the draglites then?

 

[Uber88GT]

I know my setup isn't the best, but it has worked fantastic so far:

Eibach Pro Lowering Springs
Koni Yellow shocks/struts - 3 way adjustable, struts can be used as coil overs later
Eibach Front & Rear Sways
GMS Control Arms
UPR CC Plates
UPR Sub Frame Connectors
UPR Bump-steer kit

As far as your setup goes, if your using a panhard bar, you can get rid of one of the upper control arms, might be worth while just boxing a stock one in and saving some coin as the panhard will be doing the work. Dont forget SFC's, and you should get a bump-steer kit if you lower it.

Good Luck!

 

[Mustang5L5]

For what it's worth, I went from c springs to Mach springs and the ride improved. The spring rates are the same, but the increase in suspension travel stopped me from bottoming out the front struts all the time. Theybare linear rate, so you can trim 1/2 a coil to get it slightly lower.

 

[Jaym14]

Ditching the draglites then?

Yup, they will be my latest craig's list ad! lol I think they are a classic look on a fox.. but to me once I have big brakes I wanna show them off!

I know my setup isn't the best, but it has worked fantastic so far:

Dont forget SFC's, and you should get a bump-steer kit if you lower it.

Good Luck!

Thanks! Car already has welded in subframes.. and I'll definitely get a bumpsteer kit once I lower the car.

For what it's worth, I went from c springs to Mach springs and the ride improved. The spring rates are the same, but the increase in suspension travel stopped me from bottoming out the front struts all the time. Theybare linear rate, so you can trim 1/2 a coil to get it slightly lower.

Good to know!

 

[DucatiRdr]

I have:

FRPP C springs
Koni orange adjustables all around
Poly bushings
MM unadjustable extreme duty LCAs
FRPP upper LCAs
New Motorcraft bushings at axle
MM full-length subframe connectors
MM CC plates
SN95 spindles and 13" brakes

Ride is on the harsh side even with the Konis turned down to soft. Not the car you want if you live in a place like frost heaves or pot holes. My car is a weekend/fair weather driver and I put less than 2,000 miles a year on it at the most so I can deal.

As for the bump steer kit, I was told by MM that as long as your tie rods are parallel with your FCAs you are all set. If you change geometry such as with a K-member, etc you'll need the bump steer kit. Otherwise, no. I think the bump steer kit requires also a more intensive alignment technique. Someone on here may know more about this.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Stay away from UPR-Griggs or MM is your friend
Bilsteins on all corners hands down
You'll need a rear sway bar even with a panhard bar
MM full length subframes
C/C Plates
Remember the stiffer the springs you go with you'll want less sway bar, something like a 4cyl bar in the front
H&R, and hypercoil are both brands i like, something aggressive will always help with spirited driving
GOOD set of lowers, your current uppers will be fine unless they are worn out.
And yes you'll need a bumpsteer kit

 

[MFE92]

Spring for the height-adjustable LCA's and thank me later.

 

[DucatiRdr]

And yes you'll need a bumpsteer kit

Dunno. Just repeating what the tech line at Maximum Motorsports told me on two different occasions. I would guess they knew what they were talking about. I haven't noticed any bump steer on my car and the tie rods are in fact parallel with my front LCAs.

 

[Uber88GT]

Mine weren't, needed the kit to get it right and thats only an inch and a half drop

 

[2000xp8]

I'm not interested in a coil over set up.... try and talk me out of it if you want but as of now even if I eventually go with a tubular K I'll probably get one that retains the stock spring set up.

Thanks guys!

If you asked me a year ago i would have said the same.
But my situation required coil overs to get the ride height correct, and it was worth every penny.
Ride quality improved, adjustablility did too.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.
You don't realize how bad the stock inboard spring mounting setup is, until it's gone.
Coil overs are also nice too because it's really easy to change them if you don't like the spring rate.
It's really a totally different feeling when you drive the car.

For shocks, i've had a bunch, koni reds are definetely my favorite.

 

[DucatiRdr]

Here was MM's reply to my question as to whether I needed a bumpsteer kit with my C-spring'd 88 w. stock K:

"It is a very common misconception that when you lower your vehicle, or that if the tie rods are not level with the control arms you will acquire a bumpsteer problem. This is completely FALSE!

Bumpsteer is the relationship between where the steering rack, control arms, and spindles are located. Since none of the front end geometry has changed with your modifications, the bumpsteer is completely unaffected. When you install something like our bumpsteer adjustable tie rod ends and change the outer pivot point, you create a completely different bumpsteer curve. For your application, and due to the complicated, time consuming process of bumpsteering a car, I would highly recommend against installing the kit. They are a lot more hassle than they are worth. Your time and money could be spent somewhere else on the car where you will see much more of an improvement in performance."

 

[Jaym14]

^^^^^ thats interesting

 

[Cobra912]

If you asked me a year ago i would have said the same.
But my situation required coil overs to get the ride height correct, and it was worth every penny.
Ride quality improved, adjustablility did too.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.
You don't realize how bad the stock inboard spring mounting setup is, until it's gone.
Coil overs are also nice too because it's really easy to change them if you don't like the spring rate.It's really a totally different feeling when you drive the car.

For shocks, i've had a bunch, koni reds are definetely my favorite.

Worth the money right there.