DAMN WHEEL HOP!!!

[autumn_again]

well, i've got my bogarts mounted on the rear now. and now its hopping like a ****** in first. seems when its barely losing traction it'll hop instead of spin. but when i go full out WOT in 2nd and they spin faster its just spinning no hop.

i've got the steeda adjustable upper, and the steeda chromoly lowers.

what do i need to do to get rid of this wheel hop?

i was gunna go with adjustable struts next, if this will cure the hop i'll order them this week.

 

[NastyStang113]

Do you have LCA Relocation Brackets? If not than get them !! Do you have springs and/or shocks? If not, get them !!

 

[autumn_again]

the relocation brackets i thought would only aid on lowered cars in which the pinion angle changed.

i'm mainly focusing on the rear end, so springs are probably gunna wait.

i think i'm going to order adjustable struts for the front and rear and just install the rear for now since its gunna be extremely easy.

i saw a swarr bar that said it would get rid of wheel hop, but i don't know how valid that is or just the company trying to sell their product.

 

[NastyStang113]

No the LCA Relocation Brackets will help you, too.

 

[anthony05gt]

I'd just make sure the lowers are basicly level and the pinion angle is set properly to get the roll center corrected.

 

[DarkFireGT]

Sounds like you don't have your pinion angle right. What is your pinion angle at? With aftermarket LCAs, UCA, and no aftermarket springs, you should have little to no hop. A stiffer spring and adjustable shocks/struts can cure it, but not if your pinion angle is off. And given what you have on your car right now, I can almost guarantee it's the pinion angle.

 

[autumn_again]

i'll check the pinion angle this weekend, around what should it be?

i'll check the free way first and then decide where to go from there if i still have the problem.

 

[NastyStang113]

It would of been a LOT easier to set the pinon angle when you installed the UCA. Here's a good read for you.

How To Set Pinion Angle

 

[DarkFireGT]

i'll check the pinion angle this weekend, around what should it be?

i'll check the free way first and then decide where to go from there if i still have the problem.

With a stock driveshaft, you should be -2 to -3 degrees. So take the driveshaft angle, subtract the pinion yoke angle, and that should give you -2 to -3. If not, you need to change the UCA length accordingly. You want -2 to -3 degrees so that when you take off and the differential rotates slightly, it puts you right about at 0*.

It would of been a LOT easier to set the pinon angle when you installed the UCA. Here's a good read for you.

How To Set Pinion Angle

Actually, while installing the UCA is a PITA, setting of the pinion angle is no different now than during installation.

 

[NastyStang113]

Actually, while installing the UCA is a PITA, setting of the pinion angle is no different now than during installation.

How do you figure? The car has to be jacked up again !?

 

[DarkFireGT]

LOL true.. but you don't have to reinstall the thing or anything like that. You said A LOT easier. So yeah, it would be easier to get it right the first time, but I wouldn't call it A LOT easier.

 

[NastyStang113]

Getting the car jacked up is always the hardest part !!

 

[o0Dan0o]

Getting the car jacked up is always the hardest part !!

Nah, getting it back down is the pain of it all!!!

 

[NastyStang113]

 

[UrbanRedneck]

I'd deffinetely get the relocation brackets, they aren't designed to correct pinion angle, they are to change the way that the suspension transfers weight to the rear axle.

 

[autumn_again]

after reading cherod.com/mustang - LCAs i am definitely considering the relocation brackets next. but as for tomorrow morning i'm going to measure my pinion angle and hope for the best.

its amazing with my last stang i never even thought about touching the suspension, just the motor.

now with this car the main thing i'm focusing on is getting this thing to hook perfect and then later on a power adder.

 

[UrbanRedneck]

Probably because it already has a lot more power than an SN95, so you aren't too concerned with it not having enough?

Put it this way. My brother has an LS1 Camaro, they have a similiar suspension to ours, almost identical LCAs and panhard rod, only difference is they have a torque arm, which is superior to our short UCA, but other than that very similiar. His car has about 425 horsepower and would completely anhilate (sp?) drag radials even if he just took off from an idle (auto trans). We put BMR LCAs, relocation brackets, panhard rod, and Competetion engineering adjustable drag shocks on it. Now on ET Streets, I took it for a test drive and on the street it dead hooks even after bringing the RPM up on the convertor and hauls serious ass. I guess what I am getting at is there is a lot of room ro improve suspension for this type of use, and you will be amazed with what you find when you relocate the LCAs (since you already did everythnig else).

 

[o0Dan0o]

Griggs racing sells a torque arm setup for our cars, I'm seriously considering it even though its about $800. The UCA on these cars is just way too short for proper geometry. My 00 WS6 with the stock suspension and about 310-320 RWHP never had any wheel hop issues.
Dan

 

[autumn_again]

tomorrow i am going to check the pinion angle, i didnt get a chance to today. i am pretty much set on ordering relocation brackets. and found a few other things i want to order from cheperformance. i need to keep myself off the computer for a few months so i can save money and stop looking at stuff. hah.