Determining If I Have A Missing Canister Purge Solenoid.
- Thread starter NoTreadDyl
- Start date
I'm getting ready to pull my engine and removed all the front accessories and saw my charcoal canister and purge solenoid and remembered this thread so I took a couple pictures for you. Hope this helps.
Thanks man, that's very thoughtful of you! I have actually already located all the components. My question now is if I can use the solenoid without the pigtail, the one without is the only one they had at Lordco, I can return it and get that one thou if I need too and than I am good just have to hook it the system back up, is that 3/8th vacuum line being used from the intake to the canister?
Also, my picture shows how I used safety pins to probe the rear of the connector for the ect sensor right next to the clip for the solenoid you are holding in your picture. I just wanted to confirm with someone if this is the correct way to measure the resistance on the ect sensor? I tried to measure it on the volt scale as shown by jrichker and I got 0. I need to know if I did the test wrong or if the sensor is done for.
Thanks everyone for the help!
Need the wires hooked to the solenoid for it to work, can't remember what size vac line is. Sensor is measured in olms, not volts.
That clip is not for the solenoid, it is for the ect sensor which is already plugged in. And I thought that was the case but jrichkers post shows a chart for voltages (should be around 3.5 volts) as well as a chart for ohms below it?
I may be wrong, but the sensor, unplugged would be measured in olms, I always have trouble when testing resistance. I would think voltage is tested with the wires hooked up, power on?
I was told to measure it with it plugged in and power off, that power on could damage the dmm and is incorrect. Lol I posted a photo of exactly what I did and asked like 5 times for confirmation so I dunno, seams no one can give me a straight answer as to how to measure it and if I have done it properly. Bout ready to say
saving the $80 and just put this new sensor in and be down with it 
I am also waiting to see if anyone can confirm whether or not the 2 different purge solenoids are interchangeable or not. I purchased the one without the pigtail because its all they had, but I ordered the one with the pig tail and can return this one and get that one early next week.
Unplug the solenoid and measure the resistance across the two prongs inside the connector sitting on it.
You don't need to test the wiring.
This is that the computer does when the codes are run. If the resistance value is out of spec, you get your code 85.
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You don't need to test the wiring.
This is that the computer does when the codes are run. If the resistance value is out of spec, you get your code 85.
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Do you have the wire harness that runs from the engine harness to the solenoid down by the purge canister?
Does anyone actually read the threads before posting their two cents lol?
I am NOT testing the canister purge solenoid - it isn't even there, hence my asking about the replacement part I already purchased and if it will work- I am trying to test the resistance of the ECT sensor. I have described and even provided a photo of the exact way I tested it and everyone just keeps saying "do it this way" and no one has just looked at the bloody photo and said yes that is correct or no that is wrong lol. I appreciate all the input but getting frustrating getting the same responses that clearly indicate the thread was not even read.
I got code 85, purchased the sensor and was just trying to confirm it was fried before replacing it but if the code is 100% accurate than I guess that's pointless and I should just replace it lol
I do read the post as do others, sometimes I have to reread the post, sometimes I get confused and sometimes people post in a confusing manor, not meaning to bugger you up, replace the ect sensor, I think the sensor test is conducted with the sensor unplugged and measured in olms, but again I get confused easily.
Note: some on here use their I phone thingies to monitor the site and does not show entire post to them, I use some kind of pad thing, kendel or I candel, I'd have to ask one of the kids what it is.
Note: some on here use their I phone thingies to monitor the site and does not show entire post to them, I use some kind of pad thing, kendel or I candel, I'd have to ask one of the kids what it is.
Lol I think that is the kindle! Yeah its just funny I have been on it, did what was advised, figured
out and am ready to move onto the next part of the diagnosing which involves answering 2 questions I have repeated multiple times, and people are not answering the question but suggesting I try the stuff that was done 3 days ago and are asking me the questions instead of helping answer the 2 yes or no questions I have put forth!! Ah the internet, I'll get there, thanks for the advice, come along way since I got her couple months ago and it wouldn't start!
Cut me some slack. I post on a phone and not all of the thread gets displayed.
If you are measuring Volts, what you did was right. If measuring resistance, it's incorrect, you must unplug from wiring and test sensor.
If you tested resistance, make sure you test with the scale large enough. If you get an open connection, the sensor is toast.
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If you are measuring Volts, what you did was right. If measuring resistance, it's incorrect, you must unplug from wiring and test sensor.
If you tested resistance, make sure you test with the scale large enough. If you get an open connection, the sensor is toast.
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If you mean you bought a sensor with the pig tails,( plug and wires connected ) yes you can use it, but if you don't need the pig tails ( your plug and wires are good) and your plug will attach to the new sensor your good, I have seen aftermarket sensors that have different plugs and you have to splice them in, if it does not match your plug I would be hesitant to use it, thats me, if the plug matches your plug but you plug has say, clips broke or cracked from age unpin the wires and pin yours in the new piece.
Or am I still confused lol.
Or am I still confused lol.
This is how you test resistance of a sensor. Disconnected from factory wiring
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Can you do this for say the ECT sensor with it still in the car with the battery disconnected and plug removed so I can probe the pins? Here is a photo of my particular dmm, which of the ohms setting should it be on? And than do I just refer to jrichkers chart?It is confusing because different people are saying to test it in different ways. I don't get the voltage chart for checking the sensor that I have seen on here if others are saying it should be measured only in ohms? Is there a test measuring voltage and a separate one for measuring resistance in ohms that both will let you know if the sensor is toast? I learn quick and the car has come along way in the past month but its tough when you get told different things!
And now back to the original purpose of the post. I went and picked up the purge valve solenoid, there were 2 options. One with the pigtail and one without. I originally got the one without as this is all they had, but returned it for the pigtail one as that is the one shown in all the photos provided to me on here. I have attached a photo of me holding it next to the plug its supposed to plug into. Problem is they do not match, so now what? Do I need to order one from a different manufacturer?
The way I'd test it is to set the DMM on ohms. I'd prob use the 200K scale. Unplug the wiring and just probe the sensor. No need to touch the battery.
I'd look at his chart for 68-86 degrees (ambient temp)
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
If your value is in that ballpark, you are good. If it's waaaay off. Sensor is bad.
And now back to the original purpose of the post. I went and picked up the purge valve solenoid, there were 2 options. One with the pigtail and one without. I originally got the one without as this is all they had, but returned it for the pigtail one as that is the one shown in all the photos provided to me on here. I have attached a photo of me holding it next to the plug its supposed to plug into. Problem is they do not match, so now what? Do I need to order one from a different manufacturer?
I looked up a few on Rockauto.com and they look to be the same type of connector. I see them for $25-40 on Rockauto.
I'll look tonight at how mine is hooked up
THANK you! I feel like you just shortened and simplified 10 posts into one. I have the new sensor as well so I will do what you just said and compare the 2 as well. The photo of the plug you just sent me looks to be the same as the one I got, the male pins are flat instead of tubular so will not clip into the harness in my car which looks practically identical to the ect plug it shares a harness with.
Also its 46 degrees here! I can find the chart thou, thanks!
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