Progress Thread Diagnosis front end clunk (and more)

[JD1964]

Remflex 3028 Exhaust Header Gasket

Reviews on amazon look good

Amazon.com: Remflex 3028 Exhaust Header Gasket : Automotive

Buy Remflex 3028 Exhaust Header Gasket: Exhaust Manifold - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

 

[TOOLOW91]

I just measured the head ports and my actual header port dimensions. The Remflex 3028’s are a perfect fit! Gonna give them a try.

Remflex is the only gasket I will use period

 

[JD1964]

The Remflex 3028’s came in today. These are the nicest looking header gaskets I’ve ever seen for sure. The line up very nice on the header flange and head

 

[TOOLOW91]

I put that shhhhh on everything

I got them on my big block Chevy in my 66 belair as well.

 

[Noobz347]

Am I the only one that twitches at the thought of blending those ports to the gaskets?

 

[JD1964]

I’m not removing any material from the head whatsoever. As long as the port on the head is smaller than the port on the header I’m good. On the intake, as long as the port on the intake is smaller than the port on the head, I’m good. These new heads will out flow and out perform my GT40 irons, hands down, as is. I’m not touching them

 

[Noobz347]

I wouldn't touch it either. It's just twitch.

 

[AeroCoupe]

F that. Mofo’s would get blended before they got installed. Hell, I cleaned up the welds on the BBK shorties on my car so I’m that guy.

 

[JD1964]

I’m replacing my water pump in this project as well. I did not have any oil leaks from the timing cover or pan gasket prior to beginning this project. No coolant leaks from the timing cover gasket either. A few thousand miles ago i actuall had this engine out and rebuilt it so the current timing cover gasket is not the original, its a recent replacement. I’ve got the one piece Felpro oil pan gasket and its not leaking a single drop so I really don’t want to disturb it.

So, how many of you have replaced the water pump and not done the timing cover cover gasket and not had problems with a leaking timing cover gasket? Given my particular circumstances described above, do you think its a reasonable decision to not mess with the timing cover and oil pan gaskets during this water pump swap?

Thanks for your input.

 

[AeroCoupe]

If they don’t leak don’t mess with them and most people don’t when replacing a water pump unless they leak.

 

[nicholase]

I wouldn't ever change the timing cover gasket to replace a waterpump unless it was previously leaking, or if the water pump studs broke, which can be common. But if you've had it all apart recently that's a non issue.

Just to share something that almost got me...The biggest thing to look out for is the backing plate bolts on the waterpump plate. Some of the replacement pumps come with slightly thicker bolt heads and it hits the timing cover ever so slightly which cause a leak. Its really hard to see becasue its on the backside. Just something to pay attention to. I had to clearance the bolt heads on my Edelbrock pump. I couldn't slide a peice of paper between them and the timing cover when it was snugged up.

So don't toss your old pump becasue you might want to re use those bolts.

Random internet image

 

[JD1964]

Nicholase, I got the Tuff Stuff water pump. It has rounded Allen head bolts for the backing plate. They look just about as low profile as the stock ones. Should be good there but I’ll pay attention nonetheless. Thanks.

 

[JD1964]

I think I need longer header bolts due to the thicker Remflex gaskets. The threads only show about 1/4” when the bolt hole in the head is at least 3/4” deep. What do you think? 1/4” longer will do?

I’d like to get reliable locking type header bolts. Any recommendations on which ones to get?

These are the shorty type headers I have of unknown brand but they’ve been good to me.

Thanks, John

 

[AeroCoupe]

You need a minimum of one bolt diameter of threads of the steel bolt fully engaged into the threads on the head with cast iron heads. For a steel bolt I to aluminum you need a minimum of two diameters. You need to check and see how far the threads go into the heads as some are not cast very deep and some are.

 

[Noobz347]

I think the ones that I use are the ARP Universal 12 pt 3/8 x 1.00 in.

They are not locking but I've never had one back out either.

 

[nicholase]

I had that problem becasue my JBA headers have a really thick flange. I used the ARP ones noted above. I do have a set of Stage 8 3/8"×1" locking headers bolts I didn't use i found in the garage yesterday. I was kinda worried about the locking tabs rattling. Not sure if they would have or not.

I've never had a non locking one back out. They'll need to be re-tightened after the gasket expands and contracts a few times. But it's just from gasket compression, not loosening. Usually after about 3 or 4 heat cycles they're good to go. Your gaskets might be better and not need so much.

 

[JD1964]

Yeah these header bolts are 3/4”. I need the 1” ones.

 

[DadLife0724]

Would think an extra ¼ inch would be fine. Your gasket isn't ¼ inch thick so you will end up with a few extra insurance threads in the head.

 

[JD1964]

I’ve got the heads torqued down and I sized up my pushrod and rocker assemblies. I’m going to need to find my pedestal shims which are somewhere here in the garage. On cyl #1 TDC, it took 1 1/4 turns from zero lash to cinch up the rocker bolt. That’s too much from what I remember. Should be more like 1/2 to 3/4 from zero lash. Am I right?

 

[DadLife0724]

Supposed to be torqued ideally within 3/4 turn. Was it only #1 that gave you issues?