Did The Intake. . . Motor Is Now Fu@%$. . .

[lazy_stang]

Hey guys. . . I bought my 95 GT from an older girl last fall and I was having some problems with it spark knocking, checked the timing and it was advanced 10*. Checked the fuel press. it was around 38psi. Took the cats off. it wouldnt do it all the time, but every once in a while. . . anyways i parked it at a guys shop for the winter and dropped off a bunch of parts, he noticed the harmonic balancer was shot, rubber hanging out the back side, so thats prob. why it was pinging, becuase we wernt getting the right timing due to the balancer being spun.

Its a stock 95 GT 5 speed. 190kms on it. Over the winter, he put on: new balancer, underdrive pulleys, bbk headers, Typhoon upper+lower intake, 70mm throttle body, CAI, removed smog pump and egr, catless X-pipe, and 3.73's. Anyways i went and picked it up yesterday. drove it back to my house which is about 10-15kms. shut it off for about 3 mins. Got back in because i wanted to take it for a spin down the highway, went to start it and it turned over very hard, thought maybe the batt. was low, but it fired up. Went down the highway (had a problem but ill post that in a min) came back into town, was idling through town in 1st and crammed on her and it didnt even break loose, had $hit all for power, so i pulled into my buddies yard and at idle my oil pressure gauge (stock gauge) dropped right off!! gave it a little fuel and it came back up, but as soon as i let off the fuel to idle i lost pressure, popped the hood and she was knocking. . .

Last fall it would act up a lot, it would work really well, then sometimes it was bawlless. . . we cleaned the maf no luck. . . thought it may have been something to do with it spark knocking.

anyways guys, I have no idead why this happened, maybe it was ready to go last year before i put it up for the winter. . .
I brought it back to the guy that did the work on it, he said it sounds like a rod bearing, you can hear it knock when you give it a little fuel at idle, (floating).

It always used castrol 10w30 and this time after the intake etc. was changed it was started and idled for a while, then shut off and changed the oil, but instead of normal castrol, we used castrol syntec 10w30 (synthetic). . . i dont think this would be the culprit though. . .
last night i was looking under the hood at the pulley diagram on the fan shroud plastic and noticed that how the belt is routed now is making the water pump spin backwards. . . but i didnt notice it over heating when i took it on a 10 min run down the highway. . . but it may have, maybe thats why it started hard, maybe it was really hot. . . i dont this this would screw the rod bearing if it did heat up though? but its not spark knocking anymore. . .

any ideas guys?

P.S. When i took it on the highway, i turned er up pretty good and at around 180km/h i got a real bad fast vibration that kicked it out of gear. pulled over and it stoped, I had a vibration in it last year at high speeds i noticed, you can feel it in the shifter, but anyways i pulled back on and it shifts 100%, Could this be a bad U-joint, becuase if i had a vib last year with 2.73s and now i would have 3.73's the DS would be spinning that much faster. . . when i pulled it out of my garage this morning to turn it around there is tranny fluid on the floor


Not Happy

 

[Zero_chance]

Your initial problem of detonation is kind of common in our cars for some reason. I cant run anything lower than 93 octane or else Ill get a little spark knock. A hundred times worst in the summer. As for the rest of your problems... how many miles are on it? How does it run now? Rough, feel like its missing at all? How feasible is it for you to pull the motor? Or do you rely on the same guy to turn the wrenches?

 

[madams74]

Lets go backwards. Yes the U-joints can cause vibrations. Cheap, easy to fix, so go try getting some and troubleshooting that problem first. Leaky tranny, auto or manual? Does not matter really, a leak could be a pan needing a new gasket or just tightened on an auto. Could have a bad rear seal on the tail shaft on either kind of tranny. Another real easy and cheap fix. Fluid leaking is not the half of your problems.

The oil pressure gauge is not accurate in Mustangs. It is a switch, ON or OFF. Your engine could have a number of problems, or just a bad oil Pressure switch. Does the gauge drop all the way down all the way off the scale? A clogged oil screen, or a bad oil pump can cause this if your gauge and pressure switch are OK. I would invest in a new oil pressure gauge and this way you will know for sure. Stop getting on the throttle until you know for sure. You wanna grenade the thing? Seriously, I would not drive it until I knew about the oil pressure first.

Other things, check to see if the timing is at 10 with the SPOUT unhooked. Make sure you have the SPOUT hooked back up. Try some higher octane gas. How about plugs and wires?

 

[lazy_stang]

the car has 199,xxx kms on it. The spark knocking seems to be gone now. In New Brunswick, Canada we dont have any Sunoco stations and the highest octane we can get is 91. . . supreme, thats what i run. No it seems to run good and not missing but once i ran it down the highway and back (20-25kms) driving through town it seemed to have lost a lot of power but not skipping. . . i am gonna pull the motor but i wanna find out what the vibration is first, if it is just a u-joint then thats fine cuz im gettin a new alum. shaft anyways. but if the tranny is done, I might as well change that when i have the motor out. . .

 

[lazy_stang]

i didnt drive it after i noticed the oil pressure and knocking. . . today i started it to turn it around in the garage so i could work on it. . . oil pressure was fine. . . but it was cold, so. i found another engine 306 short block with less then 1000 kms on it for $800 but it has been sitting in a garage wrapped up for a year and a half or so.

 

[lazy_stang]

madams74:
the tranny is a 5 spd.
the timing was set to 14* with spout out. after it was all back together.

When i picked the car up yesterday it worked awesome all the way home (10miles)
then i took it on the highway for about 10miles worked good except the vibration. got back into town and it just wasnt working right there was a big loss in power, thats when i pulled into my friends yard and noticed at idle no oil pressure. the needle falls right off. . . below the low mark, as if the gauge wasnt even working, but if you would bring it up to say 1500rpm the needle would come back up. . . then i noticed the knockin when giving it just a little fuel from idle.

 

[99FiveOh]

I'd say go with the new motor anyway, after all, your car does have some miles on it so a new motor certainly won't hurt things!

 

[lazy_stang]

yeah but this 306 isnt brand new, actually its not a 306, cause its only bbored 0.20 over, forged flat tops, and he cant remember if it has a b-cam or an x-cam. . . it has less then 1000 kms on it. but it has been sittin for 1-2years. . . will either of those cams be too much for my stock heads. . . i cant afford to do the heads right now and i need this back on the road.
thanks

 

[lazy_stang]

does anyone know if the 94-95 5.0's have a knock sensor?

 

[madams74]

No knock sensor in your Mustang. Your leak is either the tail shaft seal or the front seal inside the bell housing. You need a 50 oz flywheel and 50 ox balancer. If you have vibrations still motor mounts, tranny mount or as I said in previous message U-Joints are the first thing you wanna get into. I have never seen a pressure gauge go bad, but I have seen pressure sensors go south. If it is all working, you have to get that engine pulled. You oil pump very well could be the problem and your suffocating the engine without enough oil. Only way to know is with a real gauge. If I were you and I had the time, I would pull it all out and start over. You mentioned another block. A bare block is not going to help you out much. If it has the low end (crank, rods, pistons, etc) it might be worth trying to get.

 

[lazy_stang]

madams, its not a bare bblock, it has the crank, new pistons, cam, new oil pump and water pump on it. . . i guess its not a 306 but it is bored .20 over, and has forged flat tops, so i guess that would be better than my hypernetic? ones. . . it has less the 600 miles on it. . . $800. and he has a brand new aluminum drive shaft hell give me for 250. . . this is canadian dollars too so thats about $750 USD for every thing. . .

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Heres a couple of things.

If you are using a Fram filter....remove and give to someone you hate. Use a Motorcraft. I have had 302 Fram filters go on me roughly 3 times in a row (oil pressure read 10 psi) Get a Motorcraft or Wix filter. DON'T USE FRAM!!!

Second timing should always be at 10 Degrees. The computer pulls/ adds timing and adjusts load based on the fact that it thinks the timing should be 10 degrees. (Make sure you pull the spout connector to test.

Finally i hope you didn't use the cracked factory vacuum lines. Fuel regulator needs to have a vacuum line on it. PCV should have been changed.

***
Also i didn't see you say anything about tuning this combo. If you deleted the EGR you prob. have a check engine light. Check engine makes the car run in Limp/Safe mode. Really rich conservative computer settings...and will run like a slug.

Chris

 

[lazy_stang]

okay i thought it may have had a knock sensor, and once the ecu realized the knock that it cut timing and that would be why it worked like $hit, but i guess it coulda been working like that cause it was HOT

 

[revhead347]

Let's not beat around the bush. If the engine lost that kind of oil pressure, and started knocking, you broke something good. I would say you spun a bearing or something along those lines. I don't think there's any way around taking the engine out of that car. Expect to be dissappointed when you pull apart the bottom end.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

Heres a couple of things.

If you are using a Fram filter....remove and give to someone you hate. Use a Motorcraft. I have had 302 Fram filters go on me roughly 3 times in a row (oil pressure read 10 psi) Get a Motorcraft or Wix filter. DON'T USE FRAM!!!

Second timing should always be at 10 Degrees. The computer pulls/ adds timing and adjusts load based on the fact that it thinks the timing should be 10 degrees. (Make sure you pull the spout connector to test.

Finally i hope you didn't use the cracked factory vacuum lines. Fuel regulator needs to have a vacuum line on it. PCV should have been changed.

Chris

Number one rated oil filter by the SAE is a Purolator Pure One, followed by the standard Purlolator. You can buy a PowerFlow filter which is unbranded Purolator for about $2. I don't see the point in spending more money on a Motorcraft.

You can pick up a lot of performance by messing with your base timing, especially on a stock tune. Timing does not necessarily have to be at 10 degrees, and the computer will not automatically adjust it. The computer makes adjustments based on preset data. It can not adjust to conditions, because it doesn't have a knock sensor.

If the vacuum line falls off the Fuel Pressure Regulator on an N/A car, it will just run a little rich. It's not that big of a deal.

Kurt

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Kurt

I think my Motorcraft was under $4 lets not argue the price difference of a double cheese burger Point is CHECK THE FILTER. Car pulls timing based on load and where the timing is set. I was referring to vacuum lines in general and used the FPR as an example.

I wouldn't want this guy pulling a perfectly good engine if he doesn't have to...maybe thats what some like to do. But i rather not remove the engine. If you had a fram and it crapped out on you you will still get low oil pressure with a gauge (personal experience).

Ive had a rocker loosen up on me and almost thought i needed a rebuild until i took a valve cover off.

I believe this thread was started to troubleshoot what it could be if it wasn't a full rebuild. I'm sure he already knows that yanking a motor to rebuild will fix the problem. THATS OBVIOUS

 

[Chern_889]

I had a similiar problem, Oil gauge at idle would flutter with RPM when it was hot, anything over 1200rpms and it was golden. Thought the motor had a slight knock at idle, but couldnt pin point it. So i kept driving the car and everthing seemed fine, figured the sender was just going bad or something. Then one day i pulled out to catch up to a 350Z, and bam. see pics for results.

Save yourself time and money, and just pull it now, before it makes a mess

 

[99FiveOh]

Jay, I'm beginning to realize just how much you like sharing those pics! But they are a very good warning about what can happen in situations like these. you should clean that crank section up really nice and proudly display it when you go to hangouts or shows!

 

[Chern_889]

Jay, I'm beginning to realize just how much you like sharing those pics! But they are a very good warning about what can happen in situations like these. you should clean that crank section up really nice and proudly display it when you go to hangouts or shows!

After i posted i said to myself "fack am i picture whore" Haha

That pic is a good warning for people to maintain there stangs! I wish i would have taken pics of the bearings, OUCHHH haha

 

[lazy_stang]

95vert I used a motorcraft HP filter, was like $17. but anyways. The EGR piping was removed, but its still plugged in and its on there, until i get a egr simulator thing to plug into it, and a plate to block it off.

Chern: yeah, that doesnt look good AT all!! my gauge at idle didnt flutter at all, but rather just dropped right off as if the guague was off. . . but if you gave some fuel would come back up. . .

We just got another snow storm here so im waitin for that to go away so i can bring it to my old mans and work on it. . .