Difficult to Install?

QDRHRSE · Aug 18, 2005

Black Sun-

I just noticed that the first thing you see when you get to the StangNet website is a Shifter intstall "how to" with pictures and everything. Take a look. Good luck.

p.exeter_bleu · Aug 18, 2005

disregard what the previous poster said about the grommet, it does fit, and it is important, read the manual it comes with they didnt design it like that for nothing. as for the 2 forward screws they are a major PITA without the console off.

stangbear427 · Aug 18, 2005

I've done it at least a dozen times, on three different stangs, never took more than a half hour and never removed the console, which really is a PITA. Just taking that out is a half hour by itself, and every screw that holds it together likes to strip on the reasembly if you like things tight. That's like taking off your wheels to put air in the tires. I took the saw on my leatherman and notched the console over the two hard to reach screws, so you can get right at them with a regular socket, it still took less than 30 mins and the shifter trim besel covers it.

Black Sun 5.0 · Aug 18, 2005

OK. Shifter is installed. I did it with the console in. Not too bad, just a little tedious. The only problem I'm having now is that I have a little bit of a grind going into 3rd gear. Does this mean the stop nut has to go in more or away from the shifter more? Thanks for the help everyone.

THC420 · Aug 18, 2005

just follow the instructions when setting the shift stops. IMHO setting the stops was the easiest part of the entire install. took me less then 10 mins. if u follow the directions you cant go wrong.

stangbear427 said:
That's like taking off your wheels to put air in the tires.

what about pulling the engine to change the plugs? lol

Black Sun 5.0 · Aug 18, 2005

Yeah, I followed the instructions. Put it in 3rd, adjust the stop so it just touches the shifter, back it off by a full turn and make sure that it doesn't touch the screw when pressing forward. Do the same in either 2nd or 4th also.

THC420 · Aug 18, 2005

Black Sun 5.0 said:
Yeah, I followed the instructions. Put it in 3rd, adjust the stop so it just touches the shifter, back it off by a full turn and make sure that it doesn't touch the screw when pressing forward. Do the same in either 2nd or 4th also.

you did that and it STILL grinds? Did u double check to make sure that the stop isnt touching the shifter in 3rd?

txstang84 · Aug 18, 2005

i seem to recall when i bought my ripper that the instructions made mention that much research had been done (with the collaboration of borg warner) saying that basically unless you're a gorilla, the shift stops are more there for show than for functionality...but it did say put the shifter in first, and while lightly applying pressure, put the set bolt against the shifter, then screw it in one full turn and tighten the jam nut...then repeat while in fourth. then insure that the shifter does not touch the bolt head while engaged in any gear.

just my recollection...in a nutshell, the shift rod should not touch the bolt head unless you're really rippin' on it in any gear...

Black Sun 5.0 · Aug 18, 2005

It said 3rd gear, then 2nd OR 4th. I tried it every way. Could there be a chance that with the new shifter my clutch needs some kind of adjustment? I just had the cable replaced 2 weeks ago. This issue is only in 3rd gear and the shifter absolutely, positively does not touch the bolt.

txstang84 · Aug 18, 2005

maybe try rotating the shfter knob closer to you, 3rd gear is tricky for alot of people because of the way you almost punch the stereo in mustangs...

stupid question, but is your "shift timing" meshing well with your clutch engagement?

281pony · Aug 18, 2005

never adjusted stops or any of that to give input.

if you just had a clutch cable put in 2 weeks ago, they will stretch out and need to be tightened down again. that could be contributing to the grinding in third.

Black Sun 5.0 · Aug 18, 2005

I was thinking that too. It does a very brief gring midway into the shift.

txstang84 · Aug 18, 2005

but if it were that big of a difference, why only third gear? wouldn't it more than likely grind into just about any gear? i personally never had problems with grinding into third unless my hand/foot timing was off....but only third gear...that's it

stangbear427 · Aug 18, 2005

Re tighten the cable, or it could be the tranny itself starting to wear out. Sounds like your third gear synchro is on the way out to me. As for the stops- they are necessary, TTC said they have internal stops on their new TKO line, but T5's this wasn't the case. Stops were put on the shifters for a good reason, the forks are notorious for bending under hard shifting. I've done it myself, it isn't difficult. If you have them set right you shouldn't have any trouble, they'd have to be so off that it wouldn't fully engage at all to grind, so if you can get it in gear and it doesn't pop out this shouldn't be your problem. You should be able to slide a playing card between when it's in gear, and make it touch the stop with enough effort. And yes, if this was your problem it would do it in the other forward gears as well.

txstang84 · Aug 18, 2005

stangbear427 said:
...or it could be the tranny itself starting to wear out. Sounds like your third gear synchro is on the way out to me...

good point, seeing that third gear seems to be the most abused gear in a t-5, that would make more sense...

but, as for the stops, i'm not trying to say that they are not needed, i'm just repeating what i recall reading in my instructions for the shifter i purchased a few years ago...and like i mentioned, what i got out of their instructions was unless you gorilla on your shifter routinely, you probably wouldn't need the stops as they are redundant...

as per the instructions on the B & M website:

"After extensive testing with various race
teams, as well as continuing development
with the original transmission Engineering
group, B&M Racing and Performance
Products LLC has determined
that the “shift stop” feature is
redundant on the T-Series of Borg-
Warner (Tremec) transmissions. Because
of this, B&M is phasing out the
use of shift stops. If you feel that your
style of driving requires the use of shift
stops, install the supplied threaded
stops and nuts and adjust exactly as
described or internal transmission
damage could occur!"

...just going on what i remembered

89CopCoupe · Aug 19, 2005

p.exeter_bleu said:
disregard what the previous poster said about the grommet, it does fit .....

Did you put an MGW in your fox??
I put two in ...
One in my 89 SSP and one in my 89 7K mile notch ...
Both of them would not work ...
The handle ledge where the grommet sits was too high outta the tunnel for the lower boot to hold into properly as it stretched the boot up too high on both ...

Now you got me curious

Black Sun - I know ... I just like being an azz
... Ask around, it's what I'm best at ... bitchin' and talkin' crap

stangbear427 · Aug 19, 2005

txstang84 said:
as per the instructions on the B & M website:

"After extensive testing with various race
teams, as well as continuing development
with the original transmission Engineering
group, B&M Racing and Performance
Products LLC has determined
that the “shift stop” feature is
redundant on the T-Series of Borg-
Warner (Tremec) transmissions. Because
of this, B&M is phasing out the
use of shift stops. If you feel that your
style of driving requires the use of shift
stops, install the supplied threaded
stops and nuts and adjust exactly as
described or internal transmission
damage could occur!"

I can't believe what I'm seeing. Not busting on you, I know you're the messenger not the message so don't think I'm flaming!
In other words, B&M doesn't want to spend the money on shift stops anymore, so unless you drive it like [most people drive Mustangs], you can use their shifters in the future. Otherwise, you'll need a Pro5.0 or some such, because B&M will be for people who want a shifter but don't need one.
"Redundant"? I don't know how they can say that... they must have been working too closely with Ford and picked up their under-engineering philosophy. Everyone else is over-engineering parts to make up for all of Fords corner cutting on our cars and to stay above reproach with thousands of "stangbangers" who regularly pound their parts, and now B&M is saying "we can get away with leaving this out, most people won't need it"? Nice. Remind me to avoid them in the future.

tunedin302 · Aug 19, 2005

First I would rule out the shifter. Back the shift stops all the way out so that they don't even come close to the shifter. Go drive it (not bangin gears though). Does it still grind? Then check the clutch cable play. Try tightening up the clutch cable if it's loose. Take it for a drive again (stops still all the way out). Does it still grind? When's the last time you changed the fluid and do you have enough in there? If that's good then you probably have a synchro going south.

txstang84 · Aug 19, 2005

tunedin302 said:
First I would rule out the shifter. Back the shift stops all the way out so that they don't even come close to the shifter. Go drive it (not bangin gears though). Does it still grind? Then check the clutch cable play. Try tightening up the clutch cable if it's loose. Take it for a drive again (stops still all the way out). Does it still grind? When's the last time you changed the fluid and do you have enough in there? If that's good then you probably have a synchro going south.

agreed

stangbear: i hear ya, i thought it was kinda peculiar too, but then shrugged my shoulders and went about installing my shifter...i've got the stops adjusted 1/2 turn out on mine, and have never had problems with it. I've had it in the car for about four years now, and the only time I missed gears was when my hand/foot coordination was off. i bang on mine a pretty good bit too, but not everyday...oh well-can't fix everything

stangbear427 · Aug 19, 2005

Agreed.

And agreed. At least yours still has stops on it. Funny, the new Pro Ripper has them, I think... wonder when exactly they're fazing them out...?

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