Dipstick tube is broken - 351C

Hack

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2004
1,945
13
69
Minneapolis
Well, I'm in the process of preparing to swap in my junkyard 351C. Low budget all the way.

I was removing the old thermostat and cleaning the area up when I noticed that the oil dipstick tube is broken off flush with the block. :nonono:

So, I figure this means that I should pull the oil pan, check whatever I can, and replace the oil pump and its drive. As long as I'm in there anyway... There isn't any way that I can get away without pulling the oil pan and replacing the tube, is there? It won't be too hard, with the motor on a stand and all. I really would like to avoid spending the money on a gasket and a pump, etc if I have to. I know, I know, I'm squeaking. :D

What do you think? Should I replace the oil pump? And with what? Stock Ford unit? High volume? The motor is completely stock, and will stay that way for the foreseeable future. I may swap on a 4bbl Holley to improve driveability, but no other mods planned.

Edit: it's already a tired motor, so I'm sure I'll have to do a complete rebuild before I start adding performance parts.
 
I think you are gambling

Hack said:
bump. Any expert advice, please?

At a bare minimum, pull it apart and clean out the block. Clean the carbon off the pistons, check the valves, check bearing clearances, check bore wear, look for signs of overheating, clean out the oil pan, and reassemble if everything is in good shape. Put new main seals in it. Reassemble and paint it. You could very well get 30,000 miles out of it, but I wouldnt be comfortable doing anything less than that. To do this:

full gasket set (should include main seals)
oil pump and shaft
piston rings
valve seals (these are usually toast and can leak oil into the cylinder)
 
Cantedvalve said:
At a bare minimum, pull it apart and clean out the block. Clean the carbon off the pistons, check the valves, check bearing clearances, check bore wear, look for signs of overheating, clean out the oil pan, and reassemble if everything is in good shape. Put new main seals in it. Reassemble and paint it. You could very well get 30,000 miles out of it, but I wouldnt be comfortable doing anything less than that. To do this:

full gasket set (should include main seals)
oil pump and shaft
piston rings
valve seals (these are usually toast and can leak oil into the cylinder)
Thank you for the advice.
 
Well, from looking at the plugs that came out of the engine, I know it's tired. They had a lot of black, oily residue. So the valve guides and rings are worn and oil is getting into the chambers. This is not a surprise to me.

I really can't afford to do an overhaul right now, but I'll be surprised if an inspection doesn't tell me it needs one. I have been putting about 1,000 miles on the car a year, because there just aren't that many nice days in Minnesota. I have to be gentle with the car, since the unibody is marginal at best. Also, the C4 behind my current I6 is bound to be somewhat weak, not to mention the rear end... To me, these are all reasons why I should save my money for my unibody rebuild rather than putting money into the motor right now. I don't really want it to be tight, new and making a lot of power - yet. :D

So, should I put a running motor into storage, load it up with fogging oil, and wait a few years to tear it apart and then do a rebuild? Is it highly likely to break since it's worn? I don't have a ton of experience with motors, but I would think that if I keep it oiled and cooled and don't try to do anything crazy it'll just be down on power - not fragile. I would think I can be gentle with it and it will still be more fun than my 250.

??
My plan has been to put the motor in as cheaply as possible,
then fix the body in the next couple years,
then the top,
then the interior
then manual trans,
then rear end,
then fix/upgrade the engine.

So in about 5-7 years or so I might be ready for that overhaul. :rolleyes: And if it breaks before then, I would probably put the 250 back in.

Store it, or put it in anyway? :shrug: