i got my disc brakes on my 93 (96 cobra rear brakes and 98 gt fronts)...i used my stock booster w/ a 95 MC.....i got the Maximum Motorsports 3-2 kit intalled...gutted my stock PV and put an aftermarket one in the line..... i screwed it all the way in and bled the brakes...opened it and went back in 4 turns.....result...no pedal......i took the MC lose...adjusted the BB to where it was barely not touching the MC when i bolted it back on.....and still the pedal goes straight to the floor.....Y?
disc brakes not workin after gettin installed
- Thread starter ridethe93GT
- Start date
Mavrick
Founding Member
Mavrick
Founding Member
You need to bench bleed the master cylinder. This is most definetly your problem, if you didn't bench bleed it initially.
Place the MC in a vice, or hold it as level as you can in your hand. Full of fluid, use a screw driver to push the piston in all the way. Repeat this a couple times, and you should notice a steady stream of fluid coming out of the ports. It has now been bench bled. Do not let the MC run dry, otherwise you'll have to do it again.. then bleed the system as indicated above (like you've already done), and as long as you have no leaks, you should get a solid pedal.
PS the proper order is to start with the wheel furthest away from the MC and work towards it. So start with right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Good luck..
EDIT: That is how i bled my MC and i get a nice stiff pedal with the car off.. softer pedal with the car on, but im using a 95 brake booster. All the tech articles i am reading off of a google search, are saying that you should buy a kit, or use fittings+lines submerged in a container filled with clean brake fluid. When you push the piston in, it shoots fluid out the ports.. and when you release the piston, it wants to suck fluid back in through the ports.
I've seen it done a few times without the kits (and without lines submerged in fluid), and this is how i've done it. Although i havn't yet been able to fully test the brakes out, but they seem to work good.. no mushy pedal with the car off, and pedal doesnt get to the floor with the car running..
Place the MC in a vice, or hold it as level as you can in your hand. Full of fluid, use a screw driver to push the piston in all the way. Repeat this a couple times, and you should notice a steady stream of fluid coming out of the ports. It has now been bench bled. Do not let the MC run dry, otherwise you'll have to do it again.. then bleed the system as indicated above (like you've already done), and as long as you have no leaks, you should get a solid pedal.
PS the proper order is to start with the wheel furthest away from the MC and work towards it. So start with right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Good luck..
EDIT: That is how i bled my MC and i get a nice stiff pedal with the car off.. softer pedal with the car on, but im using a 95 brake booster. All the tech articles i am reading off of a google search, are saying that you should buy a kit, or use fittings+lines submerged in a container filled with clean brake fluid. When you push the piston in, it shoots fluid out the ports.. and when you release the piston, it wants to suck fluid back in through the ports.
I've seen it done a few times without the kits (and without lines submerged in fluid), and this is how i've done it. Although i havn't yet been able to fully test the brakes out, but they seem to work good.. no mushy pedal with the car off, and pedal doesnt get to the floor with the car running..
bubba-dough
Active Member
Mavrick is right...you definately need to bench bleed the m/c and start with the caliper furthest away from the m/c.
Also, while pumping the brakes have someone watch the m/c, there should be no bubbles in the fluid. Bubbles=air.
Try this link to Autozone's repair site. About halfway down is the instructions on bench bleeding. http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/Ui..._us/0900823d/80/19/6a/4b/0900823d80196a4b.jsp
Also, while pumping the brakes have someone watch the m/c, there should be no bubbles in the fluid. Bubbles=air.
Try this link to Autozone's repair site. About halfway down is the instructions on bench bleeding. http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/Ui..._us/0900823d/80/19/6a/4b/0900823d80196a4b.jsp
ok...that makes since....when i was adjusting the BB....when i had it to far out and pushed the MS on it would spurt out but it was like an injector...not a steady stream..so that sounds like it may be the problem..ill try it in the morning..thanks...
BTW...i was going to put a 95 BB in my car to but as you know the holes dont line up....so i bent the studs over alittle to line up and when i got them all started in the holes and started working them in one of the studs pushed back into the BB.....i tryed to pull it back though w/ a nut and a spacer on the stud but didnt work...so i said the hell w/ it and used the 93
BTW...i was going to put a 95 BB in my car to but as you know the holes dont line up....so i bent the studs over alittle to line up and when i got them all started in the holes and started working them in one of the studs pushed back into the BB.....i tryed to pull it back though w/ a nut and a spacer on the stud but didnt work...so i said the hell w/ it and used the 93
Mavrick
Founding Member
After doing some research myself.. i would advise you to buy a metal line, and the propor fittings for your master cylinder.. and route the lines back into the master cylinder (submerged in fluid) before bench bleeding..
I'll be doing this myself too.. seems pretty easy to do in the car this way, aslong as you can get the MC level.
I'll be doing this myself too.. seems pretty easy to do in the car this way, aslong as you can get the MC level.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
ridethe93GT said:
A 93 Cobra brake booster is the best choice as the studs are in the right place and have the same thread pitch as stock.
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