DISTRIBUTOR POSITION

pointer · Jul 1, 2006

SO I'M TRYING TO ADJUST MY TIMING AND IT WAS SUGGESTED THAT MY DISTRIBUTOR WAS OFF A TOOTH. I MOVED IT TO WHERE THE #1 ON THE DISTRIBUTOR WAS FACING THE #1 CYLINDER . I THEN TRIED TO SET MY TIMING. IT'S JUST NOT RUNNING SMOOTH. ALSO MY TDC MARKS WHERE NOT LINING UP WITH THE POINTER (ABOUT AN 1 3/4" TO THE RIGHT OF THE POINTER). AFTER MOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR THE MARKS WHERE ALOT CLOSER TO LINING UP, BUT HAD TO TIME IT TO 20 DEGREES AFTER TDC. TO GET IT TO RUN HALFWAY DECENT. SO NOW I DON'T KNOW IF MY DISTRIBUTOR WAS EVER OFF. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO SET THE DISTRIBUTOR SO THAT THERE IS NO ? WHETHER IT IS ON THE RIGHT TOOTH?

R.J. · Jul 1, 2006

Pull the distributor out and pull the #1 cylinder spark plug. Turn the crank with your finger over the #1 spark plug hole, untill you feel compression and the "0" on the dampner is lined up with the timing pointer. Now you are at TDC. Drop the dizzy back in so that the rotor lines up with the #1 cylinder plug wire on the dizzy cap. You will know if you are one tooth off because if you are the rotor will not line up with the #1 wire.

HISSIN50 · Jul 1, 2006

No such thing as one tooth off. You'd just rotate the dizzy further to accomodate the mis-stab.

Has your balancer's outer ring slid?

Good luck.

BlownFiveLiter · Jul 1, 2006

When setting the timing, did you pull the SPOUT plug, so the EEC can't electronically advance the timing? JT (HISSIN) is dead on about there being no such thing as one tooth off. As long as the distributor can turn enough to compensate, you could technically still keep the car in time, even if you stabbed the distributor 180° off. This is of course in theory because you'll run into physical restrictions (the wiring harness in particular), but you could still time the car. You should also check your balancer for any runout while the engine is running, since it's pretty common for the 94-95 era Mustangs to need a new balancer when the elastomer dries out and causes the outer ring to spin on the balancer. What are you using as your reference point on your timing pointer by the way? If you're using the hole instead of the edge of the pointer, that will also give you an inaccurate reading.

GRGT1994 · Jul 1, 2006

RELEASE YOUR CAPS LOCK.

pointer · Jul 2, 2006

GRGT1994 said:
RELEASE YOUR CAPS LOCK.

caps lock? Yes i did remove the spout plug before timing. I just cant fiqure out why its being so fenicky.

I'll try again tomorrow.

HISSIN50 · Jul 2, 2006

Since you're new you might not have caught what the guys are talkin about.

Typing in all capital letters is the internet equivilant to shouting.

And when you quote someone, begin your typing above or below the quoted material. When you quoted Brad, it appears that you accidentally typed inside his quoted material, which appears as though he said what you're actually saying.

When an issue arises and you start a thread, if you have ancillary questions, just post them on your existing thread, rather than starting a new thread. Most of us cant stand when there are multiple threads going on; we end up typing redundant posts or info is missing from one or the other threads.

Clearing up these little things makes it easier for us to help you, which is the whole point. The guys here are really cool.

Good luck.

pointer · Jul 2, 2006

I didn't really mean to leave my caps on, but didn't think it would matter either. Thanks for the tips in both catogories, all the replies have been very helpful. I'll let you know how it goes.

final5-0 · Jul 2, 2006

Did I understand you to say in a different thread your hb was 1 and 3/4 of an inch off the 0 mark when your #1 hole was tdc?

If that is so, you'll never get it to time correctly.

Grady

pointer · Jul 2, 2006

yes the timing marks are about 1 3/4 inches to right of the pointer when the #1 is at tdc on the compression stroke. but from what I understand you should still be able to time it, if u make new marks on the balancer. I havn't had time to mess with it today. Maybe tomorrow i'll get a chance. Before i started posting these threads I did make new marks on the balancer and still could not get the timing right. I adjusted the timing in 2 degree increments. At one time during the process i got the car running without almost any studdering or hick-ups, but i can't seem to get it perfect. From what i understand, you shouldn't have to be that precise and there is about 5 to 8 degrees where the car should run fine. The car has new platinumn plugs, new sprark plug wires and new distributor cap and rotor. thanks for your interest in this problem.

final5-0 · Jul 2, 2006

Are you talking about trying to time the car

or

Did you mean the marks do not line up when truning the motor over slowy by hand until the #1 hole is tdc

Grady

HISSIN50 · Jul 2, 2006

pointer said:
yes the timing marks are about 1 3/4 inches to right of the pointer when the #1 is at tdc on the compression stroke. but from what I understand you should still be able to time it, if u make new marks on the balancer.

I'm with Grady. If someone told you that you can put down timing tape to compensate for a spun balancer, this is not a wise idea.

BlownFiveLiter · Jul 3, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
I'm with Grady. If someone told you that you can put down timing tape to compensate for a spun balancer, this is not a wise idea.

Agreed. Unless of course you want your engine to die a premature death with all the shaking it'll do? That's assuming the spun balancer stays where Ford intended it to, and doesn't come off, taking out whatever it comes in contact with in the process.

pointer · Jul 3, 2006

final5-0 said:
Are you talking about trying to time the car

or

Did you mean the marks do not line up when truning the motor over slowy by hand until the #1 hole is tdc

Grady

Sorry if i',m being a little confusing. Yes ultimately i'm talking about timing my car.

On a previous thread someone suggested to buy some timing marks and put them on the hb. I gather this is not a good idea. If I understand everything your telling me; if there is slippage on the hb it will be obvious due to violent shaking.

-by the way, i've got a friend coming over to try and help time the car. He knows a little history on the car and said that the pointer was put on by the previous owner. maybe it's the wrong pointer.

Zero Signal · Jul 3, 2006

Also, if you have turned the dist enough, double check that you are on the #1 cylinder. I did that once since I wasn't paying attention to the wire label and went for the one closest to the intake which wasn't #1 in that case. I felt like an idiot for playing with the timing for an hour before figuring it out

If your timing is that far off, I don't think the car would run on it's own.

SVTCobra306 · Jul 3, 2006

Someone with a lot of experience timing the car would be able to get it close (between 8 and 14 degrees) by setting it by idle, however this is only a "limp home" trick. You need to replace your balancer. Yes you could mark your new TDC on the spun balancer, but who knows when it will spin again, and in the meantime it will be destroying your rotating assembly while you drive your car. It's your choice, you wanna pay a couple hundred for a balancer or a couple thousand for a new motor?

urban96 · Jul 3, 2006

spend the few dollars and pickup a new balencer, its an easy swap and itll save your motor

have you checked around the balencer to see if any rubber is coming out?

GRGT1994 · Jul 3, 2006

I'll second (third or fourth - or wherever we are) on the "buy a new balancer" suggestion. If you're right that it's off at TDC, then don't mess around. Get a new balancer.

Based on the age of our cars, many of us (me included) have experienced a failed balancer. And if you are lucky, you won't break any thing. But if you're not lucky, get ready to buy a new motor.

You have a few choices in the balancer. If you are sure you will not do any significant mods (like a Kenne Belle), then you will probably be fine with an OEM replacement from your local parts store. Otherwise, take a look at a nicer balancer. The stock one's are pretty cheap. The nicer one's will run you $100 or so more. But are worth it down the line if you are doing much more in the way of mods.

Seriously, this is not something to cheap out on. So replace the balancer. And you are probably due for a new one anyway. Then when you get it on, you can confirm whether your pointer is a problem too.

Good luck.

R.J. · Jul 4, 2006

There is one piece balancers on ebay for $50-60.

SRLMARK · Jul 4, 2006

Maybe his Cam wasnt installed correctly and is one tooth off on the timing chain? Just a thought! Would that cause the same thing?

Mark

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