Distributor wont come out, new motor, help!!

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Yellowpnoy

New Member

Feb 6, 2006

203

0

0

Apr 24, 2007

#1

• Apr 24, 2007

• #1

Guys, i have a big problem. I built a dart block 427w. I purchased the short block already built and had them install and degree a cam. The first question is, they never installed a thrust plate on the cam, is there supposed to be a thrust plate on it? The cam had some play in it and i never questioned it because they were a reputable builder. I put about 20 miles on the car and started to hear a squeak coming from the front of the car, i thought maybe it was a rocker, but it turns out it wasnt. This is a hydraulic roller setup. I used a Melling high volume oil pump on the car with an ARP shaft and MSD billet distributor with the steel gear. I removed the belt thinking it was one of the accessories squeaking. When i started the car it still squeaked, as i was walking back to shut the car off i hear a loud pop and as soon as i heard the noise i looked at the oil pressure = 0!! I immediately shut it off and it didnt run for more than a second. Here is my real problem, if i turn the motor over slowly by hand, the distributor shaft spins. Also, the dist. housing turns freely, but i CAN NOT remove the distributor. Its like its frozen in place and i cant pull it out. What the hell would cause this? Also, the dist. is HOT, and it still is and the motor has been off for about an hour. I am dumbfounded and hopefully my brand new motor isnt destroyed, if anyone know what could possibly be wrong, please share your knowledge.

Anthony

 

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Yellowpnoy

New Member

Feb 6, 2006

203

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0

Apr 24, 2007

#2

• Apr 24, 2007

• #2

The car has been off for close to 2 hours now and the distributor is still too hot to touch, is this normal? The coolant temp never got over 180. I am lost.

 

BigHairyMonkey

Founding Member

Jun 18, 2003

411

1

16

Houston (Bellaire) TX

Apr 24, 2007

#3

• Apr 24, 2007

• #3

really not to hijack but im having the EXACT same prob with my distributor, it WILL not move freely i have to have 4 mustangs guys scratch their heads and beat it with a chisel to adjust my timing. its ridiculous, everyone tells me they've never seen anything like it before. Its like its frozen in the motor. anyways sorry im of no help, lets see if someone else chimes in

 

ShortThrow50

Member

Oct 22, 2006

923

2

16

Pa

Apr 24, 2007

#4

• Apr 24, 2007

• #4

That is crazy **** man. I have NEVER ever had a problem with the distributor coming out and i have removed enough if them. Cant wait to hear what others say incase this happens to me

 

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86bluecobra

Advanced Member

Dec 20, 2004

4,265

12

69

B.C. Canada

Apr 24, 2007

#5

• Apr 24, 2007

• #5

perhaps you could remover your timing chain cover and the chain then the cam gear and the retainer and move the cam a little to get the dizzy out. I have not heard of this either. You did remove the distributor retaining clip didn't you?

 

93 LX

Founding Member

Jun 2, 2000

3,081

3

0

Norwalk, CA.

Apr 24, 2007

#6

• Apr 24, 2007

• #6

Check the cam. It may have walked out enough to cause the dizzy gear to bind. Also when you get the dizzy out check the gear depth on the dizzy. Also check cam end play, too much it will bind the dizzy.

Allen

 

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Yellowpnoy

New Member

Feb 6, 2006

203

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Apr 25, 2007

#7

• Apr 25, 2007

• #7

I have never heard of this either, and most are stumped. I talked to a tech at comp cams and they think that most of the problem stems from the cam not having a thrust plate and extensive endplay on the cam. I am kinda thinking that the screeching sound was from the bearings on the distributor, or the distributor gear getting chewed apart. I am gonna pull the timing cover off tonight and see whats in there. It has an ARP oil pump driveshaft, i cant imagine that it broke, but its just so weird that the housing turns freely but wont come out of the hole, i am stumped, i guess i am gonna have to wait and see what i find behind the timing cover.

 

EvilHorace

Founding Member

Mar 30, 2001

423

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0

Milwaukee,WI

Apr 25, 2007

#8

• Apr 25, 2007

• #8

Many years ago I once worked at a gas station and there was a tool that'd remove stuck distributors. It had a claw-type end that'd fit under the distributor and a slide hammer at the other end so you'ld just use that and tap it upwards until the distributor would come out. I'm not sure where you'ld get one today, maybe a tool distributor like Snap-On, Mac or Matco?

Hope you engine's OK otherwize.

 

88mouse

New Member

Apr 18, 2007

630

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0

Mooresville nc

Apr 25, 2007

#9

• Apr 25, 2007

• #9

I have had to use the slam hammer to get dizzy out before.I don't see how your motor doesn't have a thrust plate.The dizzy i have in my car came from advance auto,I have to keep turning it and pull up on it to get it to come out.Its a pain in the a**.

 

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Yellowpnoy

New Member

Feb 6, 2006

203

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0

Apr 25, 2007

#10

• Apr 25, 2007

• #10

I hope its just stuck like that, but i only have 20 maybe 30 miles on the car.

Anthony

 

93 LX

Founding Member

Jun 2, 2000

3,081

3

0

Norwalk, CA.

Apr 25, 2007

#11

• Apr 25, 2007

• #11

88mouse said:

I have had to use the slam hammer to get dizzy out before.I don't see how your motor doesn't have a thrust plate.The dizzy i have in my car came from advance auto,I have to keep turning it and pull up on it to get it to come out.Its a pain in the a**.

Click to expand...

The thrust plate keeps the cam end play in check. Too much end play can damage dizzys and lifters.

 

88mouse

New Member

Apr 18, 2007

630

0

0

Mooresville nc

Apr 25, 2007

#12

• Apr 25, 2007

• #12

yeah i know what the thrust plate does but he said he didn't have one on his motor.Wouldn't the cam just try to walk out the block with out it?

 

ShortThrow50

Member

Oct 22, 2006

923

2

16

Pa

Apr 25, 2007

#13

• Apr 25, 2007

• #13

If all else fails my friend, go grab an 8 pound sledge and hit the sum bitch over the head. lol

 

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Yellowpnoy

New Member

Feb 6, 2006

203

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0

Apr 25, 2007

#14

• Apr 25, 2007

• #14

Well, didnt need an 8lb sledge, needed a 2 foot crow bar to get the damn thing out! The screeching noise that i heard, was the oil pump...and the pop that i heard, was the ARP OIL PUMP SHAFT breaking off inside the distributor shaft. It sheared it right off, and to boot, it cracked my distributor shaft. I dont know how this happened or why it happened is beyond me. I have to pull the motor this weekend to change everything out, this sucks. The reason the distributor was so hard to pull out was because it cracked the shaft and was causing it to bind on the hole in the block where it passes through. I am guessing that the oil pump locked up and caused the shaft to break. Its a melling high volume oil pump with a canton 7 quart oil pan and pickup. I am not going to put a high volume pump back on the car and stick with a standard pump and go with a blueprinted one this time and another ARP shaft. Just figured i would let you guys know, i hope this doesnt happen to anyone else. I have some pics.

 

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86bluecobra

Advanced Member

Dec 20, 2004

4,265

12

69

B.C. Canada

Apr 25, 2007

#15

• Apr 25, 2007

• #15

Thats wierd.

 

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Yellowpnoy

New Member

Feb 6, 2006

203

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0

Apr 25, 2007

#16

• Apr 25, 2007

• #16

I think someone just told me what the problem was on another board. I never cut the shaft to length. It pushed on the housing after i bolted the pump and distributor down and wouldnt allow proper lubrication. Oh well, live and learn i guess!

Anthony