Do I Drill-Thur or Not ?

Hi Guys

I own a '66 Convert. Need to remove that rusty/rotten inner rocker panel on both sides. One side at a time

I already bought the new inner rockers/no holes for the spot welds on 'em.
And a cross brace to fit both doors, so the car doors don't sag.
Before I start chopping at those rocker panels. ( the car is level I might add )

Couple of questions:

1. Do I drill - thru both pinch welds on the top of the ol' rocker panel ?

2. Do I only drill - thru half way the good part of the outer rocker panel or only
thru the ol' inner rocker panel ?

Lastely, Do I keep the outer rocker panel hole free and then drill holes thru the new inner rocker panel(s) I bought so I can plug weld 'em ?

Maybe simpley put: How would you guys install inner rocker panel(s) ?

Need clearity for this newbie please.

O.K. guys I'm in your hands again: Thank GOD

Thanks guys
GOD BLESS

Schooner :cool:
 
cheaper alternative to the spotweld cutters are the brad point drill bits you can pick up at your local lowes, home depot, etc... drill an 1/8" pilot hole first, the go ahead with the brad point. get a large one, like 3/8" or so, this way , if you get the pilot hole pretty much centered in the spot weld, you stand a pretty good chance of getting the whole spot weld without chiseling. also, if your outer rockers are solid, i wouldnt drill them if i didnt have to. (easier to maintain factory look on the outer rockers) after you get the rocker cleaned up, (you are using weld thru primer, right?)drill your holes in the inner rocker, start in the center, and work your way to the ends. alternate ... left, right, left, right... theres nothing that will p#$$ you off as much as when you start welding one end of a long panel, and you get to the other end, and find it doesnt fit right, because the heat has distorted the panel:shrug:
 
I always drill clear thru the spot welds with a 5/16 bit, then plug weld the new panel on where the old spot welds were.


Hey Zookeeper

Thanks for the heads-up.
First I believe is to: Punch a starter spot with my punch. Then go in there with the
5/16th. bit like you said and GO ALL THE WAY THRU.

Slow speed with some oil now and then RIGHT ?

I just want to make sure, I'm on the beam with this process.

Thanks
GOD BLESS

Schooner :cool:
 
cheaper alternative to the spotweld cutters are the brad point drill bits you can pick up at your local lowes, home depot, etc... drill an 1/8" pilot hole first, the go ahead with the brad point. get a large one, like 3/8" or so, this way , if you get the pilot hole pretty much centered in the spot weld, you stand a pretty good chance of getting the whole spot weld without chiseling. also, if your outer rockers are solid, i wouldnt drill them if i didnt have to. (easier to maintain factory look on the outer rockers) after you get the rocker cleaned up, (you are using weld thru primer, right?)drill your holes in the inner rocker, start in the center, and work your way to the ends. alternate ... left, right, left, right... theres nothing that will p#$$ you off as much as when you start welding one end of a long panel, and you get to the other end, and find it doesnt fit right, because the heat has distorted the panel:shrug:


Hey Chromedog

Let me see if I got this Right ~ I'm a little slow most times :bang:
I think I'm going to try the 1/8th pilot hole first and go in there with a BRAD drill bit. Like the other gentlemen suggested.

However, I'm not clear of what you said about NOT drill the outer rocker if its good. My outer rocker is GOOD. Are you saying that I should go Half-way into
the spot weld and leave the good part of the outer rocker alone :bang:

I'm just trying to get it thru my thick head on what you're suggesting to me.
Now if I go just half-way thru the bad inner rocker panel, how on earth am I going to mig weld the new inner rocker panel to the good outer rocker panel without drilling holes into the new inner rocker panel(s) I bought :eek:

Maybe 'cause I'm Italian and somewhat thick around the skull from too many fight in the ring/street. Need to get thru to me my good man. And please be patient with me. I'm trying.

You guys know how I'm trying to learn how.
Thanks again to all you guys who are trying to help me.

GOD BLESS YOU ALL :hail2:

Schooner :cool:
 
cheaper alternative to the spotweld cutters are the brad point drill bits you can pick up at your local lowes, home depot, etc... drill an 1/8" pilot hole first, the go ahead with the brad point. get a large one, like 3/8" or so, this way , if you get the pilot hole pretty much centered in the spot weld, you stand a pretty good chance of getting the whole spot weld without chiseling. also, if your outer rockers are solid, i wouldnt drill them if i didnt have to. (easier to maintain factory look on the outer rockers) after you get the rocker cleaned up, (you are using weld thru primer, right?)drill your holes in the inner rocker, start in the center, and work your way to the ends. alternate ... left, right, left, right... theres nothing that will p#$$ you off as much as when you start welding one end of a long panel, and you get to the other end, and find it doesnt fit right, because the heat has distorted the panel:shrug:


Hi Chromedog

I will certainly look into that Brad Drill Bit you suggested.
I don't know if I ever see this bit. However, I'm goin' to Lowe's / H/Depot to find it.

Chromedog. is this bit gold in color or brass looking and graduates slowly getting wider ?

Thanks guy
GOD BLESS :hail2:

Schooner :cool:
 
I always drill clear thru the spot welds with a 5/16 bit, then plug weld the new panel on where the old spot welds were.

Hey Zookeeper

Thanks for your input.

To me that's sure sounds right.

I'll make holes right thru the good outer rocker on my car. Then I'll clamp-up the new inner rocker to the standing outer rocker that I put holes thru to mig weld the panel too.

After clamping-up the new inner rocker I'll randomely spot weld the panel here and there so the panel wouldn't WARP on me.

I don't know if I memtion this before. I ordered a cross door brace so the doors won't SAG when I remove the inner rocker panel(s) on at a time. Its supposed to be here in Vegas on the 21st of this month.

These are my thoughts from what you were kind enough to suggest.
Am I on the $ $ $ with your approval ?

Thanks guy
GOD BLESS :hail2: :hail2:

Schooner :cool:
 
with my method, you have to drill your brand new rockers...sorry. but you are going to plug weld a slightly thinner metal (inner rocker) to the thicker outer. the way i do it, you only end up with a series of tiny destorted areas, ( the 1/8" pilot holes) to grind on the outers, where it can be seen pretty easily,the majority of the grinding will be done on the inner, where you can apply a nice coat of seam sealer, paint it and be done.another trick is to use a copper "spoon" to back up your plug welds, (you can make one by taking a piece of copper tubing about a foot long, and smashing one end flat with a hammer) use the flat section behind your plug weld to form the backside of your weld into a nice flat bead. also, did you mean you are going to brace from one door to the other, or from the front of the jambs to the back? you need to brace from front to back, this will restore your door gaps to where they should be (they are tighter at the top than the bottom, right?)you need to jack the gaps wider than you want them to be, as the metal will settle back a bit, also.
 
with my method, you have to drill your brand new rockers...sorry. but you are going to plug weld a slightly thinner metal (inner rocker) to the thicker outer. the way i do it, you only end up with a series of tiny destorted areas, ( the 1/8" pilot holes) to grind on the outers, where it can be seen pretty easily,the majority of the grinding will be done on the inner, where you can apply a nice coat of seam sealer, paint it and be done.another trick is to use a copper "spoon" to back up your plug welds, (you can make one by taking a piece of copper tubing about a foot long, and smashing one end flat with a hammer) use the flat section behind your plug weld to form the backside of your weld into a nice flat bead. also, did you mean you are going to brace from one door to the other, or from the front of the jambs to the back? you need to brace from front to back, this will restore your door gaps to where they should be (they are tighter at the top than the bottom, right?)you need to jack the gaps wider than you want them to be, as the metal will settle back a bit, also.


Hey Chromedog

Here's the way I see it, unless I'm not reading you right.

Why should I use a back-up copper plate, when I will drill thru the upper and lower inner rocker that are on my car.

Then just leave my new inner rocker alone and plug weld the holes I made thru the standing outer rocker panel that's on my car.

Now I clamp-up my new inner rocker to the outer rocker that still on the car with the holes I made ~ and just mig-plug weld the new inner rocker without putting any hole in the new one. I can see the new inner rocker thru the holes i made in the standing outer rocker panel to weld too.

I due hope you got what I mean?

Thanks for your input.
GOD BLESS

Schooner :cool:
 
even if you use the eastwood spotweld cutter, you will still drill a pilot hole, you can weld without the copper spoon, but you will probibly penetrate the base metal( if you are doing it right) i feel it is easier to dress the inner rockers, and make them look right, than the outers, this is why i drill the inner, and weld from the inside. a little wire brushing, and you are ready to touch up the rocker, no grinding needed on the exterior of the car
 
even if you use the eastwood spotweld cutter, you will still drill a pilot hole, you can weld without the copper spoon, but you will probibly penetrate the base metal( if you are doing it right) i feel it is easier to dress the inner rockers, and make them look right, than the outers, this is why i drill the inner, and weld from the inside. a little wire brushing, and you are ready to touch up the rocker, no grinding needed on the exterior of the car


Hey Chromedog

I sure like what your saying about dressing the inner rocker. Makes a lot of sense.

However, the bottom of my inner rocker is really bad shape. Top is O.K. and I can dress it -up just like you said from the INSIDE.

Again, the bottom is really bad, I didn't even touch it YET in order to try an clean it up. I hate to say this but ~

I think I'm going to have to cut the bottom off all the way down the line ( the part where the spot welds are and fab a strip with hole I'll punch into the strip and weld it to the bottom of the bottom of the inner rocker. If you get my point ?

But FIRST, starting tomorrow I'm going to take a good hard look at the bottom and see if I can clean it up ~ GOD WILLING :hail2:

You see Chromedog the outside rocker is good. However, the bottom of the inner rocker is rusted badly onto the good bottom outer rocker ( Big Time Rust )

That's about it so far.
Thanks again
GOD BLESS

Schooner :cool:

Quote___________________________
The more "i" surrender the more "i" win.
 
Hey Geostang351

Its true in what you say about not having pics to show me ride and the project that I'm trying to complete.

Unfortunetly, I just don't know how the hell to post pics. I sure wish I could.

Got to study up more on how I can.
Thanks for you imput.
GOD BLESS
Schooner :cool:

You should store your pictures on a host site like imageshack.com or photobucket.com. You upload them to their website and when you want to post pictures of your ride, you use the yellow/mountain icon at the top of this edit page to call upon the website to post the specific picture you want to show.

OR

You can save the pictures on your computer and when you want to add a picture to your post, you hit the paperclip at the top of this edit page and it will become a thumbnail. You have to practice to get it but it really is not that hard to do. Whatever help you need we can walk you through it. :flag:
 
You should store your pictures on a host site like imageshack.com or photobucket.com. You upload them to their website and when you want to post pictures of your ride, you use the yellow/mountain icon at the top of this edit page to call upon the website to post the specific picture you want to show.

OR

You can save the pictures on your computer and when you want to add a picture to your post, you hit the paperclip at the top of this edit page and it will become a thumbnail. You have to practice to get it but it really is not that hard to do. Whatever help you need we can walk you through it. :flag:

Bingo!

HistoricMustang
 
You should store your pictures on a host site like imageshack.com or photobucket.com. You upload them to their website and when you want to post pictures of your ride, you use the yellow/mountain icon at the top of this edit page to call upon the website to post the specific picture you want to show.

OR

You can save the pictures on your computer and when you want to add a picture to your post, you hit the paperclip at the top of this edit page and it will become a thumbnail. You have to practice to get it but it really is not that hard to do. Whatever help you need we can walk you through it. :flag:


Hey

I'm going to try and due this. I know it will be a GREAT help for me and also to explain it better to you great guys (like yourself) who are trying to help this
Bo-Bo . . . :eek:

Here's what I got so far. I've stored all great pics on my PC. about my project.
I know how to send my project pics to my friends via e-mail. Other than that ~ I'm stuck so far.

Now the deal is How Am I Goin' To Get Those Suckers Out Of My PC And On To Our Forum :rolleyes:

Let me see what I can do.

Thanks Guy
GOD BLESS

Schooner :cool:
 
Hey

I'm going to try and due this. I know it will be a GREAT help for me and also to explain it better to you great guys (like yourself) who are trying to help this
Bo-Bo . . . :eek:

Here's what I got so far. I've stored all great pics on my PC. about my project.
I know how to send my project pics to my friends via e-mail. Other than that ~ I'm stuck so far.

Now the deal is How Am I Goin' To Get Those Suckers Out Of My PC And On To Our Forum :rolleyes:

Let me see what I can do.

Thanks Guy
GOD BLESS

Schooner :cool:

For the pictures on your PC, us the paperclip icon (attach) at the top of the "reply to thread" page.
The real way to do it is open a FREE account with photobucket and download your photos to their server to be called up at a later time.
 
I Finally Got The Spot Weld Removal Procees Down

Hi Guys

I own a '66 Convert. Need to remove that rusty/rotten inner rocker panel on both sides. One side at a time

I already bought the new inner rockers/no holes for the spot welds on 'em.
And a cross brace to fit both doors, so the car doors don't sag.
Before I start chopping at those rocker panels. ( the car is level I might add )

Couple of questions:

1. Do I drill - thru both pinch welds on the top of the ol' rocker panel ?

2. Do I only drill - thru half way the good part of the outer rocker panel or only
thru the ol' inner rocker panel ?

Lastely, Do I keep the outer rocker panel hole free and then drill holes thru the new inner rocker panel(s) I bought so I can plug weld 'em ?

Maybe simpley put: How would you guys install inner rocker panel(s) ?

Need clearity for this newbie please.

O.K. guys I'm in your hands again: Thank GOD

Thanks guys
GOD BLESS

Schooner :cool:


Hi Guys ~ A Note To All & Me

After all the postings and lots of help from you GREAT GUYS I finally got my/our way of taking-out those many, many spot welds.

Explanation(s) & Tryings First:

I didn't know exactly how much sheet metal layers I had to drill/grind/bang/hit with hammer to come out the other side of the spot weld.

Well, guys I foung out ~ (3) three layers of sheet metal on every damn spot weld.
Joy to the world, man guys what a Big Pain In The Butt this time comsuming work is :(

Here's what I'm doing to take out the spot welds on my '66 Convert.

First: I punch a spot with my hardened punch. ( I try like hell to get that punch mark dead center, makes for total take-out the spot weld )

Second: I drill a pilot hole right thru with a 16/32 bit.

ThirdI: Then I go right thru with a larger 3/8 drill bit. ( to open-up the spot weld area )

Lastly, I place my chisel in between one of the layers of sheet metal and seperate the inner rocker sheet metal strip that I left in place.

That's it guys ~ my hands hurt from all the drilling and banging that 3lb. hammer in between the sheet metal layers. But at least I have a way of taking out that Rotten, Rusty Inner Rocker Panel.

Note: Always keep your car LEVEL & use a LEVEL TOO. Or you door openings will
SAG and you'll have a hell'va time getting your door seams even.

I still working on the R/H side. Can't wait to do the L/H side of my car.

Pray for me boys :hail2: I need all the help I can get . . . lol
I certainly don't know a lot but what I do know is what I've done. And that's experience ~ again Thanks To You Guys helping me with answering my posts.

GOD BLESS ALL YOU GUYS :hail2:

Schooner :cool:

P.S. Some GREAT NEWS

Thanks to: Geostang135

Said he would help post my project car pictures on this forum. 'Cause I just don't know how the heck to do that YET.

So forthcoming guys pics will be posted and I've got some beauty's to show you.

Take Care.

Schooner :cool:
 
First: I punch a spot with my hardened punch. ( I try like hell to get that punch mark dead center, makes for total take-out the spot weld )

Second: I drill a pilot hole right thru with a 16/32 bit.

ThirdI: Then I go right thru with a larger 3/8 drill bit. ( to open-up the spot weld area )

Lastly, I place my chisel in between one of the layers of sheet metal and seperate the inner rocker sheet metal strip that I left in place.Schooner :cool:

Schooner: Have you tried using the eastwood spot weld drill bits?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14686&itemType=PRODUCT