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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Do I need a Panhard Bar??

  • Thread starter Thread starter toyman
  • Start date Start date Oct 15, 2008

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Oct 15, 2008
#1
  • Oct 15, 2008
  • #1
Don't know of a better way to describe this. Under moderate throttle (enough to chirp but not light up the tires) on the 1-2 upshift the rear seems to move/kick sideways. Everything is tight and the lower control arms were replaced a couple of years ago along with the FRPP suspension system in my sig. I'm thinking maybe the lateral rear shocks but some say they are not particularily important although Ford must of thought otherwise. They are probably original. Do I need a Panhard Bar??
 

94-302-vert

Active Member
Aug 16, 2004
1,947
2
36
NE CT
Oct 16, 2008
#2
  • Oct 16, 2008
  • #2
Check the condition of the bushings in the rear arms... My car did this until I went poly throughout.

I would think that a panhard would not fix the problem as likely the car is compressing one (or more) bushings to the point that the rear end is essentially turning under the car (turning L/R not rotating up/down).
 

parchisi

New Member
Apr 13, 2006
519
1
0
New Mexico
Oct 16, 2008
#3
  • Oct 16, 2008
  • #3
I say get a decent set of aftermarket control arms, as well as replacing the uppers. I know that Maximum Motorsport LCAs are pretty legit, but others would probably do the job well also at less cost. Although I'm no suspension expert, I don't think the lack of a panhard bar is your problem.
 
M

Mr. Hawver

Member
Feb 27, 2006
32
1
8
Oct 16, 2008
#4
  • Oct 16, 2008
  • #4
A panhard bar helps to locate the axle side to side so I think it would help. It isn't necessary, but a very nice upgrade. I would start with new bushings, just like everyone else suggested.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Oct 16, 2008
#5
  • Oct 16, 2008
  • #5
As I noted the lower control arms (Granatelli I believe) were replaced a couple of years ago. Haven't touched the uppers though. May have to make this one of my winter projects.
 

94-302-vert

Active Member
Aug 16, 2004
1,947
2
36
NE CT
Oct 17, 2008
#6
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #6
Uppers are what do 90% of locating the rear end....
 

desertcox05

New Member
Oct 3, 2007
379
0
0
south atlanta
Oct 17, 2008
#7
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #7
could' the trac-loc going out also cause this slideways jump. i also agree to ck the uca's first
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Oct 17, 2008
#8
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #8
Also check for split bushings, ask me how I know.

Wes
 

Car Nut

Founding Member
Jul 6, 2000
1,176
1
37
Snellville, Georgia (Atlanta area)
Oct 17, 2008
#9
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #9
I went with FRPP uppers and MM lowers about 2 years ago to replace the bone stock stuff. Unreal difference overall. To me, it was as noticeable a difference as getting new springs, shocks, and struts. Just a much better ride with more predictable handling.

I've got a panhard bar and it is really nice to have, but as others have stated, it really does its job while cornering. I'm sure a PHB may help a little in other areas, but it has to be minimal.

With your KB blower and other engine upgrades, I'd say put a PHB on your list, but not until you've fixed the rear control arms (upper and maybe lower). Not sure which catback you have, but if it is 2.5" tubing that goes over the axle, you may need to get custom tubing put in between the mufflers and the tips. I did this on my Bassani catback and it worked out great. No fitment issues at all, but the Bassani pipes were never going to clear the PHB without some rubbing and other contact due to suspension travel. Cost is not much either, so don't think it will cost an arm and a leg. Custom tubing ran me about $150 total including the install.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Oct 17, 2008
#10
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #10
The consensus opinion says to first replace the upper control arm bushings. Is there a recommendation about just replacing the bushings in the stock units or should I look at replacing the upper control arms instead?
 
K

Kid Capri

Founding Member
Dec 28, 1999
275
0
17
Oct 19, 2008
#11
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #11
My coupe did the same thing when I changed the lower control arms. I was stumped as to it cause, it felt as if I was go to lose control of the car, the rear of the car was all over the place. I drove my car to a friends, he walks around it to give it a look over and tells me me rear end sat more towards the pass side than it should. I took a look and sure enough it did, i ended up putting the stockers back on and it solved that problem.
 

Car Nut

Founding Member
Jul 6, 2000
1,176
1
37
Snellville, Georgia (Atlanta area)
Oct 19, 2008
#12
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #12
The FRPP upper control arms don't cost that much, so I'd suggest getting new ones. You'd also need to get new bushings for the rear diff (available at MM and probably many other places). If you are satisfied with the RLCAs, you should be in good shape.

The RUCAs only include one set of bushings, so don't forget to replace the bushings that are attached to the rear diff. MM even sells a tool to make the extraction of the stock bushings easier. Rubber bushings are recommended at both ends of the RUCAs, so that's why I recommend going with FRPP.
 
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