DO I need another radiator for my 408c.i.?

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
2,767
0
46
MA, USA
Or will my stock one work fine? It is only a year old. What do you look for if buying a better radiator than stock? What makes one better than another or better than stock one? Thanks. :SNSign:

p.s. I also heard that suMMit has good ones...
 
If you can afford one, do it.

Fluidyne, griffin, afco.. All those guys make nice aluminum radiators. A summit radiator is going to be universal, not direct fit.


I have a nice fluidyne radiator for 94/95 for sale. Taken off my 347 car. Asking $325 + ship.
 
im cheap and bought the universal summit for 179. its almost a direct fit, i used the stock lower mounts and made some custom mounts for the top out of metal. basically two hooks with some rubber cushining thats bolted to the radiator support. almost like the foxbody radiator hold downs
 
I would say get the car running with this radiator and see if you need another one. There is no sense in buying one if you dont need it. Different motors produce different amounts of heat, compression ratio, alum. heads etc all have an effect on this. There are guyz running stock radiators in the 10's. And others whose cars overheat or just simply get too warm with them during daily driving. So, before you waste the money I suggest trying the stock one esp. if its tat new and has no problems. Another cheap alternative is to get a copper one from a local auto parts store. Copper conducts heat much better than aluminum but it's a bit heavier.
 
Ok. Thanks for all the tips guys. There sure is a lot to consider when building a car. It will basically be a totally different car. I remember on a smaller scale test driving a 95 mx6 4cyl. Cool car in my o. I got out of that one into a very similar looking one but with upgraded tires, suspension and 2.5L DOHC V6. The cars looked very similar but just driving the other you could tell it was a different animal with much better acceleration, handling, etc...

You really don't think of radiators or the differences until you start building the car. I saw this pic and it all came kind of clear to me check out his page 69)...

http://mustangrenovation2006.shutte...33bc2314568&auto=0&idx=77&m=1&d=1149174383836


Look at the difference in rads (this guy has my setup carb'd) ...

Still considering the cold right now and my budget, I am going to go with Go-stang's suggetsion until spring..
 
if your not running a/c and dont have the condensor up front you can probably get away with the stocker as itll get a lot of air flow. and assuming your fan is in good working condition w/temps lowered
 
thats the point im at in my planning for my stoker to keep the ac or not... i like the convience of having it in the summer ....on a stroker whould having that extra drag make me loose big power??? sorry not trying to jack your thread but we are heading in the same direction pokageek so this advice maybe helpful to you too:nice: :D
 
thats the point im at in my planning for my stoker to keep the ac or not... i like the convience of having it in the summer ....on a stroker whould having that extra drag make me loose big power??? sorry not trying to jack your thread but we are heading in the same direction pokageek so this advice maybe helpful to you too:nice: :D


The A/C takes the same amount of horsepower to run weather its a stroker or not. I really don't understand why you would think it would cause you to loose big power? Like your other thread when I was saying you will have way more power with over 400 cubes, so you really won't notice it as much as with a 302.
 
Back on the radiator subject. A aftermarket 2 row aluminum with 1" tubes cools like a 4 or 5 row copper with much smaller tubes. They are also much lighter.

Try the stocker first but they have very small rows and not much coolant capacity. If you do get another one I recommend the 2 row 1" tube aluminum. They are like twice as thick as stock.