DO STROKER KITS REALLY MAKE THAT BIG OF A DIFFERENCE?

IJUSTWON said:
Sorry bout being Vague, I just aint real experienced with this whole thing. It's new to me. Well reason is i ****ed up my bottom end with nitrous, i dunno what exactly it did to my car cuz it was only a 75shot but my engine shut off and wouldnt start. So i was gonna just replace all my internals with forged products so my engine will be strong again.
Which is no problem you can still have an all forged motor without a mongo stroke small bore block. I see you are already on the depot PM scott or jim with VT engines for prices and options.
 
Why should i keep it stock. Nothing wrong with my intake> The car wasnt runnign and when i turned the key to start it there was a LOUD pop, and then my car locked up, any idea what happend?
 
If I were you, I would have just searched for a nice used Supercharger set and run a conservative amount of boost on a safe tune, and make significantly more power for the same or less money...but thats just me :shrug:
 
Man forged bottem ends are very durrable, but the 2Vs dont seem to like RPMs too much and you cant really use the RPM range of the forged bottom end.So unless you plan on SCing it or working the heads, you really dont need a forged bottom but heck if you already have it, keep it.Its nice to have.
 
Ummmm......

I, too, will have to dish out a healthy case of :bs: on the 246rwhp. For someone that claims to know nothing about mustangs you sure throw out rediculous numbers quick. If I didn't get enough with your first 5 post about THE SAME THING, now I have to look at the contradictions spew forth from your mouth and onto the computer screen again. Congrats man!! You are no longer a tool, but now a Registered Tool.
 
hotmustang331 said:
Man forged bottem ends are very durrable, but the 2Vs dont seem to like RPMs too much and you cant really use the RPM range of the forged bottom end.So unless you plan on SCing it or working the heads, you really dont need a forged bottom but heck if you already have it, keep it.Its nice to have.

What in the hell is this guy talking about. You sure arent talking about a Modular OHC motor. These motors are ALL ABOUT RPM. Look at any fast Modular car. Its all RPM.

Please do not post bad tech for newbies. You will really confuse them.

Nick
 
MOGS you seem to know what your talking about, the guy who had the BULLITT before me said it dyno'd 246rwhp, and youve seen the mods ive listed, what do you think of a 95mm PRO-M meter?? And with all these mods how come i shouldnt be able to reach 300 to the wheels, without a cam or headswap?
 
IJUSTWON said:
MOGS you seem to know what your talking about, the guy who had the BULLITT before me said it dyno'd 246rwhp, and youve seen the mods ive listed, what do you think of a 95mm PRO-M meter?? And with all these mods how come i shouldnt be able to reach 300 to the wheels, without a cam or headswap?
the 95mm is way too big for an all motor car. Especially if you arent going to go balls out. Stick with an 80mm or if you really think size is better, do not go any higher than 85mm.

I have a 80mm on mine.
 
For hard facts on what a big-bore will do for a modular, check out this thread:

http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31577

There have been NO strokers that have substanciated their gains anywhere. 5.0 Mustang Mag. did a comparison on big-bore vs. stroker, needless to say, the stroker needed higher compression, better heads, bigger cams and a better intake to make the same power as a mild big-bore. Also, if I felt there was an advantage to a stroker over a big-bore, don't you think I would have put one in my race car.
 
XtorT'r said:
I'll admit I don't know what the difference is between Stroker and Big bore.. someone wanna elaborate?... :shrug:
Stroker=Same bore size as stock but the piston travels farther in the cylinder.

Big Bore= Sleeved block with a bore size way larger than stock but the piston travels the same distance as stock.