Does anyone have a link to the 351w swap sticky from 5.0 tech?

I have all 3 old stickys saved, here you go:





The official 351 swap thread by saltymaz on stangnet

Information gathered was from ton of research, and actually doing the swap on a serious budget. Keep in mind though, You always spend more than you plan to. Its Murphys Law.

Ok, here we go.

PARTS/MODIFICATIONS ABSOLUTELY NEEDED FOR SWAP!

1) OILPAN AND PICKUP TUBE
You will ABSOLUTELY need a new oil pan and pick up tube. Sold by FMS through Summit, Part number: FMS-M6675A58 - $131.95

2) 28oz IMBALANCES
You will ABSOLUTELY need to obtain a 28oz. 157 tooth flywheel and 28oz harmonic balancer. You can find both of these on summit or from pre 1980 mustangs.

3) LOWER / UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD
You will ABSOLUTELY have to change your intake setup. The 351 intake is wider. If you have a Cobra (gt40) intake or a TFS intake now, both companies sell just a lower intake for the 351 to match the upper intake you already have.

4) PS/AC BRACKET
If you want to keep your A/C and power steering you need a new accessory bracket for the 351. FMS also sells this through Summit, Part number: FMS-M8511B351 - $49.95
YOU CAN USE STOCK BRACKET IF YOU DESIRE (details at bottom)

5) HEADERS
The 351 will also sit a little higher than the 302 in which 302 headers may not reach the H-pipe. Many companies sell 351 swap headers for this application. I prefer the BBK ones through Summit, Part number: BBK-1511 - $219.95
YOU CAN USE STOCK HEADERS IF YOU DESIRE (details at bottom)

6) COWELED HOOD??
You may or may not Need a coweled hood. It depends on how tall your intake/carb is, also what motor mounts you use. Most setups dont clear the stock hood, so be prepared to shell out some cash, or to have fun with a dremel.

7) DISTRIBUTOR
You will ABSOLUTELY need a new distributor. The distributor is different from a 351 to a 302. You can obtain one from a 5.8 FI truck or from MSD. I believe it might be important to mention weather or not your engine is a rollercam or flat-tappet when ordering the distributor to insure you get the right Distributor gear.

CRANK SPACER
You will ABSOLUTELY need a spacer for the crank pulley for proper alignment of the belts. FMS sells this crank spacer through Summit, Part number: FMS-M8510B351 - $34.95

9) HEADBOLT HOLE MODIFICATION
You will ABSOLUTELY Have to drill your existing 302 heads. The reason for this is that the headbolts on a 351w are larger. Some newer aftermarket heads are predrilled for the 351, but most are not. This is not a difficult task. You simply need to drill out your existing headbolts to be a small amount larger. Take a 351 headbolt with you when your drilling so you dont Overdrill.

10) HOSES, CABLES, NUTS&BOLTS
The swap requires all sorts of little miniscule items which you will need to get for your personal application. These items may/maynot include kickdown cables, Accelerator cables, Larger Headbolts, Throttle brackets, etc..
These items are not listed in individual categories because autozone carries all of these parts in stock. Just bring in what you need for your application.
And what I mean by application is that if I give a certain part # for MY holley carb throttle bracket, it will not neccesarily work on YOUR edelbrock. If you cant figure out what parts you need for these items, You are not qualified to be doing the swap.

11) OTHER
If a part was not mentioned, it means it is not required for the swap. Yes its nice to have subframe connectors, and while most people will argue its a neccesity for this much power, it is not required. When doing the swap you can do many things on a budget (as I did) But remember to get the overlooked parts in conjunction with your new power.
(suspension/trans/rearend/brakes/rollbar/etc...)

12) ENGINE
Yes, having a 351w block is a prerequisite for the swap, do not forget this step! lol

Now, for those money saving tips

Using stock AC/PS Bracket
I was able to use the stock bracket, simply by using very large washers and various spacers. You just need a large selection of washers, You torque them down enough and you can get them to hold it just as securely as the FMS bracket. (pics below)

Using stock headers
Headers. If your cheap you dont need to get new headers. The stock shorty headers CAN be used. (I am living proof) All you need to do is hammer the tube on the drivers side nearest the steering knuckle. It will be tight, but it definitely can be done. You will also need to modify your H-Pipe. The way I did mine was I cut my collectors off the Hpipe, and bolted them to the headers. Then, I welded a pipe from the collectors back to the Hpipe. Would cost a max of 30$ at any local muffler shop to do. THIS WORKS. YOU DO NOT NEED AFTERMARKET HEADERS (although I reccomend you get them if you have the cash)

Aftermarket Headers for a 302 in regards to swap:
Havent tryed installing longtubes onto a 351w, But I would put money on the fact that it would not work without SERIOUS Modifications. The stock headers BARELY fit, so attempting to use non-swap longtubes will most likely be a loss.
I have seen other typical shortie aftermarket headers however make the jump into a 351 with NO modification to the headers at all. Apparently aftermarket headers fit in nicely. Just keep in mind that if you dont buy proper swap headers, you will HAVE to modify your Hpipe, Making it impossible to upgrade to swap headers in the future, But allowing you to use any 302 style shortie header that is for a non swap function.
Let me clear this up so everyone can understand easily.
long tubes - Not worth the time labor to install
stock - some header modifications neccesary, but works great
aftermarket shorties - most fit like a glove, Remember you must mod Hpipe tho


Getting stock Gauges to work when going carbed:
They will work fine as long as you dont cut any wires. I know its tempting to remove all those ugly looking ECU wires, But leave them untouched untill the end. When your done with your engine swap, Just reattach the sensors into there respected locations on your intake.

Fuel Pump for carb:
Everyone says you have to get a new fuel line pickup and all this nonsense.
Let me clear some things up here. I have not tryed using the EFI pump with a regulator but it HAS been done succesfully. You will need a return line going back into the tank though, or pressure will creep up on you when your idleing.
I used a holley blue out-of-tank pump. To do this, Just remove the EFI pump from the tank (drop the fuel tank) And place a tube in place of the EFI pump. You are now using your existing pickup without the 130$ pricetag.

Electric Fan:
For some reason, My clutch fan stopped working, This is a excellent time to upgrade anyways.
See http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/11879/
Also, Go get a 3G alternator.


A final note:
You should realise that in most instances, when people are going to a 351 platform, They tend to add other performance parts with it. Keep in mind how much HP/TQ you are realisticlly putting to the ground, and remember to consider the outcome if you put over 350 WHP to your tranny on a launch.
This is here to server as a informative dish for the engine side of the swap, and may develop into more. If you plan on doing this swap right, You should absolutely have subframe connectors, a stronger rear end, and a upgraded transmission. Just be prepared to break more things. They dont call it fix or repair daily for nothing.

Here are some other part #'s
Oil Pan - Ford Racing P/N M-6675-A58
Oil Drive - Ford Racing P/N M-6605-A341
Flywheel - Ford Racing P/N M-6375-A302
Harmonic Balancer - Ford Racing P/N M-6316-C351
Crankshaft Pulley Spacer - M-8510-B351

Here is some other usefull info.

351W Conversions, Every Nut and Bolt

This Water Box was supposed to be Part II of How To Make Your Mustang Hook, but with the introduction of the new 351W Sportsman shortblock we have been bombarded with the same question from dozens of people: "What do I need besides the shortblock?" The traction trilogy will continue shortly.

We have been doing 351W conversions for a fairly long time and are a big fan of the extra cubes and additional strength offered by a 351W over a 302 or 302 stroker. Be sure to check out several stories in the Water Box Archives to understand why we like them so much. But we have never sat down and listed all the miscellaneous parts you need for a complete conversion. Usually people think all you need is the oil pan kit, a lower intake and headers. While these are some of the major parts, there are dozens of lesser parts that are just as important.

We have tried to list every single necessary component we can think of. While some of you may have sticker shock after adding up all the individual parts, it's important to remember that many of these same costs are encountered when building a healthy 302 or 302 stroker. If you already have a lot of money invested in quality 302 parts, a 351W may not seem attractive. But for those that do not have to take a loss on expensive headers and a ported lower intake, a 351W conversion may make more sense than a 302 stroker considering the extremely affordable $1695 price of a Sportsman Shortblock and the fact that it is several times stronger than a stroked factory 302 block.

The parts list below makes the assumption that a pair of quality heads, roller rockers, roller lifters, adequate fuel injectors, at least a 65mm throttle body and upper intake are already owned. You'll also need to hold on to your stock water pump and timing cover. If your 302 is pretty much a virgin, you'll need to buy these major components, but you would have to have done the same for a 302 build up. No one ever said that horsepower was cheap. Smokey Yunick once asked a customer "How fast do you want to spend?"

In some cases, you may be able to substitute other parts than the ones we have listed that will raise or lower the total you come up with. Also note that some of the parts are not necessary depending on your combination. An 86 - 93 conversion uses almost all the same parts as a 94 - 95 conversion, so prices will be nearly identical. Also left out of the equation are motor mounts that lower the engine a bit, while not absolutely necessary, they help provide extra hood clearance. HPM "drop solid" mounts are a nice piece and drop the engine 3/4".

Part Price
SVO Sportsman Shortblock $1695
Oil Pump $35
Oil Pump Shaft $15
SVO Oil Pan Kit $145
GT-40 351W Lower Intake $309
SVO 351W Dampr $269
Stock Type 351W Dampr (Brand New) $189
ARP 1/2" Under Cut Head Studs $139
Mac Shorty Headers $189
Mac Long Tube Headers $289
Correct Length Push Rods for Hydraulic Roller $85
Flexplate for AOD or C-4 $80
10.5" Steel SFI Flywheel - 28 oz balance $249
Air Conditioning and Power Steering Bracket $60
Power Steering Only Bracket $50
Truck EFI Distributor $189
Steel Distributor Gear $35
Modify Vortech/Paxton/Powerdyne Bracket $175
H.O. Fibertrends Hood with at Least a 1 1/2" Rise $385 + paint
Complete Fel-Pro Race Gasket Set $159
Motorsport or other Hydraulic Roller Cam $229
SVO Timing Chain Set $69
Magnecor Spark Plug Wires $69
Oil, Coolant $20 - $45
Labor to assemble 351W, R&R engine, tune $800 - $1200


We've tried to be absolutely as thorough as possible in listing all these parts. But depending on particular combinations you may still need one or two things. It's impossible for us to foresee everything with so many possible combinations.

So now you know what you're in for if you decide to take the plunge and install an engine that has a better rod ratio than any 302 stroker and offers the strength of an A4 block.
_________________

Now let's focus on 351W conversions. We've built and installed dozens of 351W's in late model Mustangs and the results are very positive. The 351W is the answer to many of the 302's weaknesses. Even a late model 351W block ('79 - present), which is the weakest of all 351W castings, is significantly stronger than any production 302 including pre '81 302 blocks. The blocks are so much more rigid than 302's that while trying to squeeze every last hp out of our 351W '88 LX at Maple Grove, we detonated the engine hard enough to brake 2 pistons. Breaking pistons may sound like a tragedy, but it showed how well the 351W keeps head gaskets in place, all we were using were Fel-Pro 1011-1's, they weren't high tech head gaskets. If it had been a late model 302 block, we would have easily blown 4 sets of head gaskets during the weeks leading up to Maple Grove.

The 351W also offers a more desirable rod ratio compared to a stroked 302. And let's not forget that a 351W can be stroked (but that's a different Water Box altogether). But perhaps the greatest benefit over a stroked 302 is the cost. A 351W shortblock directly from SVO is only around $1300. If you're looking to build a 351W from scratch, you should have no problem finding a good core at a salvage yard, and the final cost - using good steel rods and quality forged pistons will still be roughly the same as stroking a late model 302, but the 351W will be much stronger and more reliable.

Now you're asking, what are the drawbacks to a 351W conversion. Well, you'll need a cowl or other raised hood with a 1 1/2" rise, a new lower intake manifold, new headers, one modified front dress bracket, and a new oil pan which can be purchased from SVO with a pick-up for only $135.00. A 351W can also give away the element of surprise to suspicious onlookers, but the vast majority of people fail to notice the difference in deck height, especially with an EFI engine that has a lot of accessories, plumbing and wiring.

So, for the average enthusiast who wants more cubic inches without going broke, a 351W conversion is a better choice than stroking the inherently weak factory 302 block. Both will make approximately the same power, and cost roughly the same, but the 351W will be more reliable and much stronger, unless of course you opted for the A4 block. But don't misunderstand the purpose of this article. We are in no way saying that stroked 302's are unattractive, we've built several and all have worked out well. But when stroking a 302, we have always used Motorsport A4 blocks, so they're not a budget oriented project that the average enthusiast can undertake.
_______________

351w Swap Info.

Written by: Mat Peirce aka MAT88GT

This is an ongoing article and will be updated frequently. If you would like to see more questions answered feel free to contact me

Will it fit?

The deck height of a 351w is 9.480" for 1969-1970 blocks and 9.503" for 1971 and up blocks compared to the 8.2" deck height of the 302w block. This equates to a taller and wider motor. There have been many people who have squeezed 351's under the stock Mustang hood, but chances are at least a 1.5" cowl hood will be needed for the 351w combination. The motor mounts on 351w and 302w blocks are interchangeable.
Can I reuse any 302w parts on the 351w?

There are many interchangeable parts between the Windsor blocks. The 351w uses a wider intake than the 302w, but you can use a cobra upper with a 351w specific lower intake. Timing covers, water pumps, and several of the accessory brackets are interchangeable. You do need a FMS power steering and a/c bracket in most cases. Cylinder heads from a 302 can be used on a 351w block by drilling the head boltholes to accommodate the larger 1/2" 351w head bolts. The 302w fuel rail can be modified to fit the 351w by extending the rail crossover tube.
Will my 302w balancer work on my 351w?

The 351w uses a 28oz/in imbalance that is the same as early 302's. You can use a 28oz/in 302 balancer on the 351w.
What is needed to use the serpentine belt setup from a 302 on a 351w?

The 302 alternator bracket can be utilized on the 351w, along with the reverse rotation water pump along with the air conditioning and power steering brackets. The crank pulley requires a 3/8" spacer available from FRPP between it and the balancer for proper pulley alignment.
What do I need for exhaust on the 351w?

Swap headers are a must for a proper 351w installation. There are many suppliers of 351w swap headers and matching intermediate pipes including: Hooker Headers, Hedman, BBK, Mac, and Kooks. Most 351's will benefit from a 1 3/4" primary tube size.
What parts are a must have for a 351w installation?

First, you need an oil pan and matching pickup to mount the 351w into the Mustang that will clear the K- member. Moroso, Miloden, Canton, and FRPP all make exceptional 351w Mustang swap oil pans. Note that the FRPP version is a 5-quart capacity design while the others are 7 quarts. Crown Vicorias and Grand Marquis also have a dual sump 5-quart oil pan that will fit the Mustang K-member. Second, an intake is needed. If you are using EFI Edelbrock and TFS make intakes for EFI equipped 351's. You can also use a FRPP Cobra upper with a matching lower, or a 351w truck lower with stock EFI Mustang upper. For carbureted applications there are many companies making 351w carburetor intakes such as: Edelbrock, Holley, Weiand, and Offenhouser. You will need a 351w specific distributor. MSD and EFI equipped 351w Thick Film Ignition distributors will work with the Ford EFI EEC. Any points, Duraspark, or MSD distributor will work with a carbureted combination.
What block should I use?

All pre 1994 factory 351w blocks are non-roller designs. Blocks produced before the early 1980's used a two-piece rear main seal. Ford trucks and vans produced after the mid 70's use a stronger rod design often referred to as 'Football' rods because of their football shaped bolt heads. 1969-1970 blocks had a lower deck height (9.480") and provide more compression from the factory. These early blocks also have a stronger thick wall casting design and are often thought of as the strongest factory 351w block. Keep in mind that all 351w blocks are considerable stronger than the factory 302w block. If you need an exceptionably strong 351w block design FRPP and Dart both offer aftermarket 351w blocks in many varieties.
How do I install a roller cam in my 351w?

The easiest way to use a roller cam in the 351w is to find a F4TE casting number block from 1994 and later F-series trucks and E-series vans. If you happen to have a block produced before 1994 you can retrofit a roller cam quite easily. The first option is using 5.0L hydraulic roller lifters, retention spider, and lifter link bars with a reduced base circle hydraulic roller camshaft. This method requires machining the lifter valley to accept the spider bolts. Second, Comp, Crane, and Crower make retrofit roller lifter that will allow the use of any off the shelf 5.0L style hydraulic roller cam to be used in a non-roller 351w block. Any flat tappet 351w-302w flat tappet camshafts will work with the correct corresponding firing order.
What vehicles should I get my 351w from at a junkyard?

Ford produced many vehicles which used 351w motors including, but not limited to, the following... Mustangs Fairlanes Galaxies Cyclones Torinos LTD's Crown Victorias Grand Marquis Rancheros Cougars F- series trucks E-series vans Broncos
What about a fuel system?

The 351w is defiantly going to consume fuel at a higher rate than a smaller motor and you should upgrade the stock fuel system to provide for this thirst. EFI equipped Mustangs should use at least a 190lph in tank fuel pump and 24+ pound injectors. Many carbureted Mustangs use a Holley Blue pump or equivalent, which requires slight modifications to the stock in tank fuel pick-up to function properly. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator should be utilized with both EFI and carbed systems.
_______________

To help you identify your engine, both the 302 and the 351W have six valve cover bolts. The 351C, 351M and 400M have 8 valve cover bolts. The easiest way to tell a 302 from a 351W is to measure across the intake bolts. The 302 is approximately 71/2 inches wide, the 351 W will measure out at 91/4 inches. The distributor turns counter-clockwise on all Ford V-8s, so that won't help you.
________________
351w swap headers
351w intake (or just the lower for what you've got)
fuel rails - modify your stock ones or buy a kit like that Mallory one in the Summit catalog.
All the sensors will come over (except the low oil in-the-pan sensor)
The timing cover bolts tight up off the 302
The motorsport pan kit works well so long as you use a Std. oil pump (no High volume)
If you want oil pan rails (like you have on the 302), get 'em from a '95 Lightning at your Ford dealer
The front sway bar doesn't fit anymore - I think one off an SN-95 would solve the problem (brackets and all)
For a distributor, I used one from an '88 Truck 5.8L and swapped the distributor gear for the steel one off the 302 one.
The A/C and Power Steering bracket is cheap from FMS (for a fox car)
cut the smog tube on the back of the heads and lengthen it with a length of silicone hose
you'll have to lengthen the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator by about 1"
You'll need to find a hood that'll clear your intake. I use the TFS intake and my 4" Cobra 'R' hood still hit by the throttle body. Some of the cowl / Cobra 'R' hoods are wider at the base of the windshield - this is your BEST FREIND.
_________

351 Mustang Parts List
Parts to order from Ford Motorsport
Description Part Number
Lightning Shortblock (Roller Ready) M-6009-B58
Cobra Intake Kit, 351W (6) M-9424-D50 Upper, M-9461-A58 Lower
Cobra Intake Center Bolts Get these from PPI
Intake Manifold Bolt Kit ( M-6002-A50
Oil Pan Kit, 351W M-6675-A58
Crank pulley spacer M-8510-B351
Crankshaft damper M-6316-C351 or E8TE-6316-A3A (E8 part is used on '95 Cobra R)
Shorty Headers ('79-'93 / '94-'95) M-9430-A58 / M-9430-R58
Header Gaskets M-9448-A302
Accessory Bracket (A/C / A/C delete)(9) M-8511-B351 / M-8511-A351
Hydraulic Roller Lifters(1) M-6500-R302
Flywheel 28.2oz imbalance (5sp only) M-6375-A302
HD Clutch Kit (5sp only) M-7560-A302
Shorty Headers (79-93) M-9430-A58

Parts to order from Ford
Description Part Number
Pushrod(1)s F4TZ-6565-C (94 F-150)
M-6565-A58 5.8L Hydraulic Roller Tappet
D8OE-6565-A1A 5.8L Flat Tappet
Timing Chain Cover ('93-down / '94-up) E3AE-6019-A / F1SE-6P041-AB
Timing Chain Cover Bolts ( (2) 56126-S2 (3), 56131-S2(4), 56135-S2(1), 56123-S2(2), 388551- S2(1)(Stud)
Waterpump bolts( (2) ???
Coolant Transfer Tubes(4) F3ZE-9D424-AA
Distributor, 351W EFI ('93-down / '94-up)(2) D7TE-12127-D / E9TE-12127-CA
Hydraulic Lifter Guide Plates(1) E5ZZ-6K512-A
Lifter Guide Plate Retainer(1) F0AZ-6C515-A
(1)(5)Lifter Guide Plate Retainer Bolts ???
Coolant Bypass Hose E7SZ-18472-A
Coolant Hose (Pump to Transfer Tube) ???
Oil Pan Reinforcement, 5.8, Right Side E7AZ-6A74-C
Oil Pan Reinforcement, 5.8, Left Side E7AZ-6A74-D
Oil Pan Bolts 1/4" 390658-S2
Oil Pan Bolts 5/16" 390657-S2
Oil Pump Pickup Bolt (7) 357235-S
(7)Oil Pump Pickup to maincap bolt mounting locknut 382802-S191
Oil Pump Bolt/Lockwasher (size??) (5) 382951-S
(3)ECT Sensor F2AZ-12A648-A
(3)ACT Sensor F2DZ-12A697-A
(3)Block Plate D9ZZ-7007-A
(3)Bolt, Flywheel to Crankshaft 1ZZ-6379-A or 39127-S
Lower Gasket Set E9AZ-6E078-B
Intake Gasket Set F3TZ-9433-D
((5)Throttle Body to Intake Mounting Bolts 45357-S8
Timing Pointer F1TE-6023-BA
Balancer Bolt E0AZ-6A340-A or 376706-S
Balancer Washer EDC-6378-A

heres the old bolt ons intro too:



Provided by W.O.T. Stang on Mustang Exhaust.com

Mass Air Flow Sensor

The Mass Air Flow Sensor or MAF is located at the air-box, where your filter is located. Air must pass through the MAF as it goes to the intake and eventually the cylinders. It's purpose is to measure the airflow entering the engine so that the system can maintain the proper air/fuel mixture at all times. It works by sending a slight current through a very thin wire located in the flow path. The air cools this filament and produces resistance which can be measured and interpreted by the Electronic Engine Control system (EEC). A stock MAF may be as small as 65 mm in diameter, which makes it easy to see why a larger diameter unit would help air- flow and thus performance. A larger 77- 90 mm aftermarket MAF will be good for 5-10 hp, and a solid foundation for further improvements down the intake path. A "cone" arrangement from the MAF down to the throttle body produces the best performance.

Cold-Air Intake

There is not much good that can be said about the stock air-box in most Mustangs. In addition to being very restrictive, they draw air in from the hottest area of your engine bay just behind the radiator. Heat is the enemy of power and can even cause pre-detonation. The cold-air intake system moves the air filter, and in most cases the MAF, to the fender where it can draw cool air. This can make a substantial difference in the temperature of the air/fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber - and that means power. This simple addition can add as much as 12-15 hp by itself, and an added level of protection against pre- detonation.

Throttle Body

The throttle body, or TB is located just before the upper intake manifold and consists of a short tube and the throttle blade which controls airflow. It can easily be located by tracing the throttle cable from the firewall to the top of the engine. Like the MAF, the stock throttle body is smallish at 60-65 mm. A good aftermarket 75 mm unit will improve throttle response and overall air flow to the tune of 5-7 hp. Except for serious race applications, 75 mm should serve most purposes well. Pre 1993 models will require a matching EGR spacer to complete the upgrade.

Timing Advance Adjuster (4.6 only)

Spark timing is very important to performance, but the factory setting is very conservative and leaves some power on the table. Typically the piston is already on its way down from the compression stroke before the spark plug ignites the air/fuel mixture. A few crucial degrees is all it takes to recapture that lost power and deliver it to the crankshaft. On our beloved Windsor engines (pre 1996) all we need do was adjust our distributors accordingly, but of course that is a thing of the past. Modular engines have no distributors, so the process is slightly more complicated. A crank sensor determines the proper timing of the coil-packs, which fire the spark. The timing adjuster allows you to relocate the crank sensor and adjust its relative orientation to the crank to improve spark timing. This mod is good for 10-15 hp, and will be substantially more effective with additional air and fuel upgrades.

Rear-End Gears

Rear-end gears are the final reduction ratio from the transmission output to the wheel axles. Just like on a bicycle, the final ratio determines how many pedals (RPM) your engine must turn to make one rotation of the tires. This is pure physics - you can do more work (move the car) with less effort (torque) with a higher ratio, and that means better acceleration. A typical final ratio of 3.27:1 means that it takes 3.27 revolutions of the drive-shaft to make one revolution of the wheels. Its easy to see that if we're relying on the engine to make 1 revolution of the tire with 3.27 revolutions of the engine, it should be able to do it faster with say 3.55 revolutions, or 3.73, or even 4.10. Numerically higher gears won't give you more power, but they will improve the way your Mustang uses what it has. The flip-side of the coin is lower top speed, but unless you cruise at 80+ mph a reasonable gear swap won't affect your regular commute.

Short-Throw Shifter

Stock Mustang shifters are notoriously sloppy and awkward, and the distance between gears is far too long. During any performance driving it is absolutely imperative that you can shift gears with a crisp, single movement. First gear to second is a natural line, but the dreaded 2-3 shift has caused many a bent shift- fork due to missed shifts. Short-throw shifters have special spring gates which drive the 2- 3 shift up to the proper position, and the distance is much shorter. Positive stops at each point also prevent any damage by keeping the shifter from pushing past the point where the gears are engaged. The new shifts are smooth and precise, and can be transitioned in the proper racing style (when necessary).

Exhaust Headers

Exhaust gases leaving the combustion chamber are forced out by the piston on its up-stroke. Any resistance from the exhaust manifold results in power loss. Typically a stock manifold has a common chamber where the gasses must meet before they move down into the H- pipe. If the exiting gasses run into each other they create back pressure. Headers are individual pipes which allow the gasses to flow more easily into the area where they are collected. Equal length headers insure that the pulse associated with the escaping gasses is timed correctly so that each meets at the collector separately. Headers are an excellent method of freeing up valuable power. Typically they can produce 7-14 hp. Long-tube headers are also good for some additional low-end torque.

Hi-Flow H/X-Pipe

In the same way that headers improve performance over the stock exhaust manifolds, a performance H-pipe or X-pipe will improve the exhaust flow further down the path. The main difference between the X-pipe and the H-pipe is the cross-over method between the two sides. As the name implies, the H-pipe has a straight cross-over, while the X-pipe meets in an "X" configuration. Catalytic converters are extraordinarily restrictive, but fortunately there are very effective aftermarket versions which free a substantial amount of power. The factory H-pipe uses four catalytic converters (two pre-cats and two primary), the purpose being to burn any unspent fuel and contaminents before they reach the environment. A single performance on each bank of the exhaust cat can do the same job, add horsepower and maintain the vehicles emissions compliance.

Cat-Back Exhaust

The last section of the exhaust is the mufflers and tailpipes, or the cat-back. Here too there are performance gains to be had. Although the stock exhaust cat-back has improved in the last few years, there are still a few horsepower to be gained when using an aftermarket version. However, size is not the key issue here - in fact an exhaust can be too large. The key to a good performance exhaust is heat and velocity of the gasses. A smooth path from the exhaust port to the tip of the tailpipe is the crucial characteristic. If an exhaust is too large it will allow the gasses to slow down and cool, which crates turbulence and backpressure. A good exhaust cat-back will improve performance by as much as 7 hp, whereas an entire header to tailpipe exhaust can collectively see as much as a 15hp gain.

Computer Chips

Lots of so-called experts will tell you that a chip is a good performance product for even the relatively stock Mustang, but quite frankly we are skeptical at best. We have seen improvements in computer recalibration on the dyno, but our use of them has been solely to address tuning issues. We do NOT advocate their use as a stand-alone performance item. Despite the obvious similarities in each of our Mustangs, off-the-shelf chips just don't allow enough room for the specific tuning issues we've seen from one car to the next. Without adequate dyno tuning a one-size-fits all approach just doesn't make sense.

ANd the third and final cam swap directions for 5.0s:


Provided by the one and only W.O.T. Stang from Mustang Exhaust.com

I decided I would add this for the 5 liter members here. Yes, there are different sequences on how to perform this swap, but this is my way. One more thing. These directions are going to be very thorough. I've read some tech articles that left out some important steps, and for some reason that really gets on my nerves. When doing something for the first time, it’s best to have the directions simplified as much as possible. Read all directions first. Other then a good set of sockets/screwdrivers/pliers, all you need are fuel line disconnect tools, and a harmonic balancer puller. And obviously the cam, gaskets, RTV, and misc cleaners. Also, it's a good idea to have a repair manual as a reference (haynes/chiltons) just in case you get lost.

Step-by-step cam install instructions
First of all, I like to get the motor on TDC of compression stroke for #1 cylinder. You do not have to do this, but I just got into the habit of it. So, remove #1 spark plug. If you are standing in front of your car looking right at the motor, the #1 cylinder is the first cylinder on the left. Place your finger over the #1 spark plug hole so it’s nice and tight up against the hole. Have someone turn the key a tad to slowly turn the motor over a little, till you feel your finger being pushed off by the air wanting to escape out the spark plug hole. As soon as you feel it being pushed off, stop and you are on TDC.

1) Disconnect both positive and negative battery terminals.

2) Get a pan to collect coolant. At the base of the radiator on the passenger's side, there is a stop**** which must be loosened. Yes, turn it to the left and watch it drain.

3) Loosen the lower radiator hose at base of radiator. There will be some coolant which will dribble out. Undo the other end of lower radiator hose; it is connected to water pump. Remove it.

4) Loosen and remove the upper radiator hose. Some coolant might dribble out.

5) Now we want to remove the radiator/fan/fan shroud. Go ahead and remove the 4 bolts which hold the fan to the water pump (7/ 16's). Put an 18mm socket on the belt tensioner along with a breaker bar and pull up and remove the serpentine belt. Then work the fan out after you disconnect the two (7/16’s) bolts at the top, and the two clips at the bottom. the fan shroud will now be loose and you can remove it along with the fan.

6) This step may differ for some people depending on if their fan shroud and radiator have been previously removed. No big deal though. The radiator is held on by two clamps. One bolt holds each clamp on. There is one clamp at the top of the radiator on both sides. Remove the bolts and clamps. For the bottom, the radiator just sits in two slots. The radiator should lift right out along with the fan shroud if you haven’t removed it yet.

7) Remove both pieces of the large air inlet tube which connects from air box to throttle body. You can leave the mass air meter in place.

Now we want to undo the throttle cable. It is under the throttle body. Use a screw driver and just pry it out of its "hole." Then there are two screws on the EGR spacer which hold the throttle cable plate to it (10mm). Remove them. Leave throttle body and EGR spacer on upper intake manifold. Also, disconnect the EGR, IAC, and TPS sensors that are attached there too, also don’t forget about the EGR spacer coolant lines.

9) Pull distributor cap off along with the wires and label the wires if you need to. If you are looking directly at the motor the cylinder run, starting with the left bank and going from front to firewall, 1-2-3-4 and on the driver side, 5-6-7-8. With cap gone, rotor should be pointing at around the 11:00 to12:00 position like on a clock. Loosen then distributor hold-down (1/2”) and disconnect the TFI harness. Then pull distributor up and out. You might need to wiggle the rotor a bit to get it out. Stuff a towel down the distributor hole to keep debris from falling down in.

10) Let's now move on to the front of the engine and remove some accessories. If you have a/c and depending on what year you have, there should be either 4 bolts or 2 bolts holding it on. Remove the bolts and you might want to label them, like in a plastic bag. Do not disconnect a/c lines. Move the compressor to the opposite side of the engine bay and let it sit somewhere over there out of the way.

11) Loosen up bolts that hold the power steering pump on. Label them. Leave power steering lines connected and let the pump hang below and out of the way. You might want to tie it up so there isn't too much tension on the lines.

12) Remove all bolts which hold the water pump on (5/8’s). There are a bunch of them and you will need to label them b/c some are studs and some are bolts. Actually, you might want to make a diagram of which ones go where, because some are different lengths. Remove the water pump and it will probably leak some coolant. You will have to remove the two small rubber heater hoses connected to it also.

13) Go ahead and remove crankshaft pulley. 4 bolts hold it on.

14) If you have impact tools, now is a good time to break them out. The crankshaft bolt is one big guy. You will need a 15/16" socket. If impact is unavailable, you will need a breaker bar and someone will have to use a pry bar and wedge it around the harmonic balancer. It will be difficult to loosen. Take out the bolt and take off the washer and put the bolt back in and tighten almost all the way down except for a few threads. Now you must use a harmonic balancer puller. I'm going to assume you know how to use it. Begin removing the harmonic balancer.

Now it won't come all the way out b/c the crankshaft bolt is still in there. The reason I let it in half way, is the large screw of the harmonic balancer puller will mate up against the bolt head so it is more easily removed. Now go ahead and loosen the crankshaft bolt almost all the way, but still in there. Go back to balancer puller and go ahead and remove it all the way you can. Go back to crankshaft bolt and take it out then take off harmonic balancer.

15) Let's finish off the front of the motor by removing the timing chain cover. Remove and label all bolts. There are two bolts on the bottom of the timing chain cover on each side that must be accessed from under the car. They go up through the oil pan and into the timing chain cover. Remove cover. One last thing here. There may be a small bracket- like piece, it’s really a 4 inch piece of metal, that connects to the smog pump and then to the timing chain cover. You have to remove it to take off timing chain cover.

16) You can leave the alternator and smog pump intact and in place if you are doing a cam swap only. If you are doing heads also, take out header bolts and leave headers where they are. Also, if doing heads, you will have to take off alternator and smog pump.

17) Now go to upper intake manifold. We will remove it now. Remove the 5.0 cover on top of intake manifold. Go ahead and loosen and remove the 6 bolts which hold the upper intake manifold on. (1/2”) 2 in the middle, 2 in front, and 2 in back. Now that it is loose, there will be some vacuum hoses under it, and connected to it, which must be removed. One up front that goes to the charcoal canister, one to the EGR, the main vacuum line, the PCV line, the HVAC control vacuum line

1 Loosen and remove the two small pieces of flexible rubber flexible tubing for the heater core. They are connected to the lower intake manifold at back of motor. Leave them connected at the firewall, or you risk breaking the lines to the heatercore (which is a nightmare to replace, and I lack the energy to write a tech article for it.)

19) Now we need to undo a lot of electrical connections. Undo the 8 fuel injector connections, temp sender & sensor connections, ACT sensor and any other ones connected to lower intake. The wiring harness should be able to be moved up and out of the way.

20) If you want to remove your fuel rail completely, you MUST have a fuel line disconnect tool. Go buy one at any parts store for a few bucks. You can't continue without it. Use the tool and loosen up both fuel lines. Get a rag; b/c fuel will drip for a few seconds. It’s also possible to disconnect it from the lower intake and move it out of the way, but it’s one less thing that is in the way if you completely remove it.

21) Let's lose that lower intake manifold now. 12 bolts hold it on. Take them out and label them in a bag. There might be something on the back of the lower intake manifold holding it on too. I have seen some that have a metal line (ground strap) bolted to it, and some don't. If you do have it, unbolt it.

22) Now the motor is fully exposed. Look at the timing chain. There are two dots which must be lined up. One dot is on the large sprocket and one is on the small sprocket. Turn the motor clockwise until they line up perfectly. If you got it on TDC, they should be nearly lined up.

23) Look into the lifter valley and you will notice the “spider looking” lifter retainer plates. They are held on by 2 bolts. Remove them and the “dog bones” behind them.

24) Remove valve covers. You could have performed this earlier. I just remembered it now.

25) Now you want to get 16 plastic baggies and a marker. One by one, take off the bolt that holds rocker arm down. Place rocker arm and bolt and all of the pieces in the baggie and list them “1 int” or “1 ex” (as in #1 cylinder intake…etc) so you can install them back in their ORIGINAL positions. Keep them in order of where they came out of the engine. Do the same with the pushrods. (I used an upside down cardboard box and labeled them and stuck them in holes I made for them)



26) Remove the lifters and put them on cardboard in original positions also. (a strong magnet will help remove them.)



27) Now go to the timing chain. Remove the bolt that holds large sprocket on. The Large sprocket should practically fall off along with chain. Only the small sprocket remains.



2 The chain and bottom will come off now.



29) Now look at camshaft retaining plate. 2 bolts must be removed. Take them out along with the retaining plate.



30) We are almost there! If you have a/c, pay attention now. If not go to next step. The last thing we must remove is the a/c condenser, Looks like a mini radiator, and is located where radiator was. The cam is too long and won't come out unless you remove this thing. I forget how many bolts hold it down, but take them out and leave the lines connected. You have to maneuver it out of the way and up a little bit. But you can do it.



31) Ok, now let’s take the cam out. Use a long water pump bolt or harmonic balancer puller bolt and thread it a little ways into the camshaft. You are going to use it like a handle for some leverage. The cam is kind of heavy. SLOWLY start to pull it out. It will fall a bit too cause it isn't resting on all of the bearings now. BE CAREFUL NOT TO NICK THE CAM BEARINGS. Keep pulling it out going very slowly until it is all the way out.



32) That’s it! You are done. as far as getting the cam out. I'll be working on the instructions on putting it back together soon.

Well, is some1 gonna make this a sticky or what?