You think that I think that I’m being cordial, and you have to tell me I sound like a prick?
First off, I have never called you a prick. You may be one but that is not my opinion, yes, you and others here have a vast amount of experience building stuff and I, for one, value your imput.You think that I think that I’m being cordial, and you have to tell me I sound like a prick?
I know my reply is harsh...it’s was intended that way. It was done that way as a reality check to offset the “you can do it- atta boys” that were coming from the cheap seats. ( second time I’ve said this)
If somebody has never welded before. The first projects to take on are simple things. SF connectors, stock lower control arm reinforcement, and after practicing a lot ( @Rdub6 comes to mind) floor pan replacement.
No life safety projects...no roll cages, no rear suspension, and certainly no front suspension projects right out of the box.
That said, a front clip swap is insane to even consider when going from “ I‘ve never welded before”, especially when there is no reference point for where to put the replacement back, doubly so when considering that you have to buy a junker SN 95 donor to cut it away from...( would leave me scratching my head saying to myself...” Why am I cutting up this rolling car to put it on the car that don’t?) Then turn around, and do that again to the other car, when I could’ve just started fresh with the trusted stuff from the factory.
Heres where I discount the original work.
1. Just because two pieces of metal look fused together, doesn’t mean that they were properly welded. If I paid money to have a chassis shop weld that II front end on a car, ( any car) and that’s what they handed me, I’d demand my money back. And appearance and weld integrity aside, and As stated, those trenches that are cut in top of the frame rail for the upper control arms to travel through have compromised the integrity of the whole deal. Furthermore, after the whole thing gets done the first time, the car gets put on all four tires, and as a result, snakes have to duck because it’s too damn low....
Uhhhh...whoops.And now we’re cutting off the upper shock mounts...
2. Why on Earth would a competent welder/fabricator take on replacing the factory K member/suspension on an SN 95 chassis, and replace it with a completely different 25 year older front suspension in the first place? ESPECIALLY when the original objective was to fit in an engine that would’ve dropped into place without cutting ONE DAMN THING.
I mean it just screams I don’t know what I’m doing so bad, it makes my head hurt.
3. Lastly,....I get the sentimentality part. You want to keep the car that this man had a hand in building. But...How much of that gets cut away if/when you put a new front clip on it?
The thread title originally asked for “ the wisest of builders here”. And the original question was to go with, or scrap and replace that front end. And you guys can call me what you want...An Opinionated, inconsiderate,...outright prick.......I’ll wear that hat. At the same time, I’m one of the few here that build what I drive/race. I know what it’s like to go to a NHRA chassis certification guy that puts the end result of what was welded up to a series of tests to determine whether or not the car can be raced or not.
You can take it or leave it, I really don’t care. But fix your “nanny-nanny boo-boo” thread title. If the first Lemming didn’t jump off the cliff, the rest wouldn’t follow.
You think that I think that I’m being cordial, and you have to tell me I sound like a prick?
I know my reply is harsh...it’s was intended that way. It was done that way as a reality check to offset the “you can do it- atta boys” that were coming from the cheap seats. ( second time I’ve said this)
If somebody has never welded before. The first projects to take on are simple things. SF connectors, stock lower control arm reinforcement, and after practicing a lot ( @Rdub6 comes to mind) floor pan replacement.
No life safety projects...no roll cages, no rear suspension, and certainly no front suspension projects right out of the box.
That said, a front clip swap is insane to even consider when going from “ I‘ve never welded before”, especially when there is no reference point for where to put the replacement back, doubly so when considering that you have to buy a junker SN 95 donor to cut it away from...( would leave me scratching my head saying to myself...” Why am I cutting up this rolling car to put it on the car that don’t?) Then turn around, and do that again to the other car, when I could’ve just started fresh with the trusted stuff from the factory.
Heres where I discount the original work.
1. Just because two pieces of metal look fused together, doesn’t mean that they were properly welded. If I paid money to have a chassis shop weld that II front end on a car, ( any car) and that’s what they handed me, I’d demand my money back. And appearance and weld integrity aside, and As stated, those trenches that are cut in top of the frame rail for the upper control arms to travel through have compromised the integrity of the whole deal. Furthermore, after the whole thing gets done the first time, the car gets put on all four tires, and as a result, snakes have to duck because it’s too damn low....
Uhhhh...whoops.And now we’re cutting off the upper shock mounts...
2. Why on Earth would a competent welder/fabricator take on replacing the factory K member/suspension on an SN 95 chassis, and replace it with a completely different 25 year older front suspension in the first place? ESPECIALLY when the original objective was to fit in an engine that would’ve dropped into place without cutting ONE DAMN THING.
I mean it just screams I don’t know what I’m doing so bad, it makes my head hurt.
3. Lastly,....I get the sentimentality part. You want to keep the car that this man had a hand in building. But...How much of that gets cut away if/when you put a new front clip on it?
The thread title originally asked for “ the wisest of builders here”. And the original question was to go with, or scrap and replace that front end. And you guys can call me what you want...An Opinionated, inconsiderate,...outright prick.......I’ll wear that hat. At the same time, I’m one of the few here that build what I drive/race. I know what it’s like to go to a NHRA chassis certification guy that puts the end result of what was welded up to a series of tests to determine whether or not the car can be raced or not.
You can take it or leave it, I really don’t care. But fix your “nanny-nanny boo-boo” thread title. If the first Lemming didn’t jump off the cliff, the rest wouldn’t follow.
You of all people.First off, I have never called you a prick. You may be one but that is not my opinion, yes, you and others here have a vast amount of experience building stuff and I, for one, value your imput.
second, I expect you not to sugar coat your responses, that's what makes you kinda fun to have around.
Third, you must not have caught the 'ruff' reference from the Aamco commercial.
Nobody here is worked up, except the guy asking if it's alright to run fcked up sht.This car is going to disappear into the night anyway. People getting worked up over nothing.
Nobody said you were stupid.Awesome glad everyone on the site thinks i have 12 iq thanks guys:,)
I don't worry about hurting your feelings.You of all people.
I’m the most obnoxious to you, of just about anybody here, yet you worry about whether you’ve said something that I might take the wrong way.
Dont worry about hurting my feelings. I expect that you might rap my knuckles with a ruler every now and then for being a bad boy.
And the prick comment wasn’t necessarily directed at you...but you can rest assured..there are plenty here that think it applies.
I need a name tag...”Hi! my name is Mike...and I‘m a phckin’ prick”
Awesome glad everyone on the site thinks i have 12 iq thanks guys:,)
Not super concerned about weight its a vert it's already fairly heavy and im not ever going to be trying to get every 10th of a second i can at the strip with this car just a fun good lookin 400hp cruiserI'd like to add that one of the key reasons to re doing the front clip is to reduce weight. Going back over the pictures, it loos like weight has been increased wherever possible. There has to be an additional 50 to 100 lbs of plate steel added there to make it work.
Kurt
Not super concerned about weight its a vert it's already fairly heavy and im not ever going to be trying to get every 10th of a second i can at the strip with this car just a fun good lookin 400hp cruiser
Not paying for a tube front end i dont wanna spend that kinda money for that for this lolIt's where that weight is, right in the nose, where it's hurting you the most. I am still in favor of having that all chopped off and having a full front tube chassis put in. Even if you stuck with the Mustang 2 style, free up some of that weight with a tubular design.
Kurt
He's not interested in doing it safely or correctly, he's said so repeatedly and even gotten angry at the suggestion.It's where that weight is, right in the nose, where it's hurting you the most. I am still in favor of having that all chopped off and having a full front tube chassis put in. Even if you stuck with the Mustang 2 style, free up some of that weight with a tubular design.
Kurt
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