Doing the one wheel peel...

grey5.0beast

Cookies should never be DUNKED!!!
Aug 3, 2004
0
1
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atl ga
OK so I have been doing the one wheel peel on and off(sometimes it hooks,mostly its a no go) and I'm gettin tired of pullin out of a place hard with only one wheel going upin smoke:rolleyes:

So this is pretty much what I need then right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986...tegoryZ33731QQihZ004QQitemZ140126657275QQrdZ1

I'll be doing it myself, I did the gears by myself(along with everything done to mycar) so I am sure this is gonna be somewhat of a cake walk.

I will be going by a guide I have bookmarked on my other computer.


When I did the gears I swapped out all of my bearings in the housing soI should be good there. Anyway,any tips are appreciated.


BTW I was doing the one wheel peel most of the time at the track so maybe now I'll be able to beat my 2.25 60':rolleyes: and hit 13s...
 
screw rubber gloves. Youre not a real car enthusiast unless the harmful chemicals soak into your pores.


+1!! i rebuild my trac loc with a kit from northwest differential, it was 50 bucks and had the extra friction plate too. Straight forward install, when the diff is back together test fit the big pin in the middle for fitment, i had to grind the 2 flat spots all the way down the pin..and i also had to remove the "shim" behind each of the spider gears..

~Mark~
 
+1!! i rebuild my trac loc with a kit from northwest differential, it was 50 bucks and had the extra friction plate too. Straight forward install, when the diff is back together test fit the big pin in the middle for fitment, i had to grind the 2 flat spots all the way down the pin..and i also had to remove the "shim" behind each of the spider gears..

~Mark~
 
+1!! i rebuild my trac loc with a kit from northwest differential, it was 50 bucks and had the extra friction plate too. Straight forward install, when the diff is back together test fit the big pin in the middle for fitment, i had to grind the 2 flat spots all the way down the pin..and i also had to remove the "shim" behind each of the spider gears..

~Mark~

dang I was wondering about that....

just rebuilt my traclok and added a thicker shim. had to beat the gears back into the differential and that pin is tight, too! had to beat that sucker in also. If I ever get the pin all the way in, I doubt I'll have a problem with one wheel peel. LOL.
 
I think I swa someone on here that recently redid theirs, but used a modified disc/shim sequence that was just supposed to be awesome, but I don't recall who it was. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
 
yeah the writeup I have has the modified sequence and the stock, I don'tknow the benefits of one over the other.

Hey hook me up with the link when you get a minute. I want to try the modified sequence when mine craps out on me. 21 years old and the original trac loc still works like a dream, but for how much longer is anyones guess
 
Depending if its worn or not... you also might need a 8.8" Traction-Lok "S" spring. Sometimes you need it and sometimes you don't. But for 18.00 bucks you miswell just put a new one in!

Good tip. Thanks for the advice. I may end up re-doing the entire rear end since I want to put down mad power eventually. I'm thinking......

Rear disc conversion
Auburn posi
31 spline axles etc.

Not sure what I'll do yet. Yo Beast, why are you doing 2nd gear clutch dumps anyway? I think you were trying to kill the trac lock just so you could have something else to do to your car.