Doing the swap this weekend...

[Repostyle]

So I'm doing my t-5 swap this weekend. She's also getting a new tri-ax shifter and carpet. I've already pulled the parts I'm going to need from my 86 parts car.

The parts list:
t-5
new tri-ax
new clutch and flywheel w/new bolts
new rear main seal
new shift boot and knob
new lower shift boot
new carpet
clutch cable
pedel assembly
new shifter bezel
trans cross-mount
driveshaft
bellhousing
starter

I know I don't need the computer, but do I need to swap the trans harness?

Any advice that I wouldn't have found out during the removal from the 86? Any tricks?

Also at the same time i'm going to do the e-brake mod to run the m2300k cables to the rear disks. I've kind of got an idea on how to do this, but i'm a little fuzy on the mods to the self adjuster in the handle itself. I know I have to tack weld the gear on the 2nd or 3rd tooth, but what else?

 

[stykthyn]

get the harness from the t5. It is important for the neutral safety switch. do you still have it attached to your pedals? you can bypass it for the moment if you dont, but it is important that you get one as the car will start in gear without pressing the clutch pedal in if you dont.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Important to clarify which harness you need.

You NEED the short 1 foot harness on the side of the T5 that connects to the reverse lights. This has the nuetral safety harness to let your car start.

If you don't change the computer, then you don't need the in-car trans harness which contains the extra plug for the nuetral sensing swith on top of the t-5. This doesn't affect starting the car, and the AOD comp has no provision for it.

However, for future use, i'd recommend yanking out the in-car trans harness AND the O2 harness from the parts car and saving it. If you ever use a manual trans computer in the future, you need these.

But if you are using the AOD comp...you just need the 1 foot harness.

 

[stykthyn]

Thanks Mike, that was the one I was referring to, but I should have mentioned that.

 

[wht93gtEd]

Just to clarify, or make it more confusing, if you just keep the AOD computer you don't need a harness (mind you, the car will start without depressing the clutch).

As a swap veteran, if you keep the AOD computer you can just cut off the plug which plugs into the side of the AOD. There're 4 wires; 2 for the neutral safety switch, and 2 for the reverse lights.

The only "harness" or plug in reality that you need, is the little plug which plugs onto the T5 for reverse lights. From the 4 AOD wires you can wire the reverse lights onto this plug and just connect the other 2 using a butt connector (this would be like closing the neutral safety switch).

I've never started my car accidentally without depressing the clutch...its just a habit.

THere's enough to do when doing the swap that I didn't want to add the computer change and harness swap into the mix. Besides, all that extra work for a safety switch...no thanks.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

I assume you're going from auto to stick? You don't need to swap computer, manual car will run perfectly with an auto computer.

 

[Repostyle]

Yeah, I already know it will work fine with the AOD comp. Every stick i've had I always started them in neutral and pushing the clutch. But with that said. I will grab the 1 foot harness. Seems easier than doing jumpers and splicing for reverse lights.

The comp and O2 harness are coming out of the parts car before it goes away, same with the stock 5.0, front suspension and the rear end. I might also keep the power window motors, and lock actuators. The interior is all f'ed up so that's going with the dented, rusted out 3 color body.

I guess other than the harness the only other thing I need is new batteries for my camera

 

[Repostyle]

I just got a call from a buddy of mine. He wants to put my AOD in his 67 since it's a w/c and recently rebuilt. Is he going to need my AOD computer? The 67 is currently a stock auto behind a 289.

 

[Mustang5L5]

No. It's mechanically controlled.

Just needs to wire in the reverse lights and nuetral safety and then come up with something for the TV cable setup

 

[Repostyle]

Sweet, saves me some work

 

[Repostyle]

HOLY CRAP!!! When I removed the pedels and the rest of the parts from my 86 it only took about 3 hours to do it all. It took all freakin day just to swap the pedels out and re-route the speedo cable. I haven't even jacked the car up yet. I plan to finish tomorrow. From what some of you that have done it say, the hard part is over. Forgot to take some pics before I left, but the pedels are in, just need to throw the steering column back in, button up the bottem of the dash, put the seat back in, then I can get really dirty underneth. I decided I'm not going to do the carpet with this job, too much extra work. Instead I'm going to wait until my new upholstry arrives and I have to take all the seats out anyway.

Some pics.

Alarm B.S.

Being cramped up on the floor of my car all day makes me wish I had a hot tub.

 

[Repostyle]

Seriously.. anybody got a hot tub for sale? LOL

As quick as the 86 went I wouldn't have expected I would be telling you that at the end of day two, it's still and auto

I fought with everything today. First, I got everything back together and tried starting the car. Turn the key, nothing. Turned out the two plugs for the clutch were loose, and with a bunch of alarm b.s. I pulled every muscle in my fingers trying to plug them all the way in. Finally got it started after about an hour of messing with the plugs. Then got the dash and seat back in.

My car is lowered so I couldn't get a jack under either end in a good place to actually lift. So I had to jack each corner and set it back down on 2x4's. 30 minutes later it was up in the air. H-pipe gave me s*** too. I fought with it for about an hour and a half before I gave in and got the sawsall out and then it dropped in 2 pieces. Then the driveline... a normally simple task. Not so in my case. First, the guy that change my u-joints stripped two of the bolt heads. Next the unbolted driveline still didn't want to come loose from the rearend. A little persueding with my Ford tool and she finally gave more than an hour later.

So, end of day two and I haven't even touched the trans yet.

Todays pics.

 

[94GTCoupe]

nice work.
remember to get the car nice and high.
the aod is pretty tall.
i took my front wheels off for more room and light to work with.

 

[wht93gtEd]

you took the column out? wow...too much work, but I guess a little too late.

I just removed the seat and dropped the column.

In 2 days, 1990Coupe and I;
- pulled trans from donor car
- pulled pedals and parts from 2nd donor car, put old trans from donor car #2 into donor car #1 (dont ask)
- pulled AOD from my car and did the entire swap.

I fought around with the pedals and column for a while but it wasnt too bad. Good luck getting it buttoned up; and you're definitely over the hard part.

 

[Repostyle]

Why not pull the column, by the time you get it dropped to the floor, there's only one more bolt to completely remove it. One less headache. Plus with the aftermarket alarm there was just way too much crap in the way so it really was worth it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Gonna switch the accelerator pedals? The 5-spd one is fatter

 

[stykthyn]

get bullitt pedals. they should fit on the skinny auto pedal.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yup, accelerator and dead pedal are easy....


clutch and brake...not so easy

 

[Repostyle]

I thought about getting billet pedel covers since I have the billet trim pieces, but that's something I can do later, my local AP store didn't have anything that wasn't ricer looking, or come with a giant foot for the gas pedel. I like the 5.0 ones on LRS, but I couldn't find a gas pedel.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Even those 5.0 pedals seems a little ricer looking. They are just...huge.


I had these in my '03 GT and loved them. Gonna buy a set and put them in my 5.0, but not looking forward to the work required to get them on the brake clutch