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DONE!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangjunkie
  • Start date Start date Jul 30, 2006

stangjunkie

New Member
Nov 15, 2004
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Jul 30, 2006
#1
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #1
Well i got everything installed last week in the engine bay next is suspension stuff. Everything works good and top end power is great!! the only question i have is around 15-1700 rpm in all gears if i am lightly pushing the acelorator pedal i get this bucking the whole car bucks almost like its stalling but if the rpm drops below 1500 it stops? any ideas??
 

jrichker

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Jul 30, 2006
#2
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #2
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR [[
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
 
S

slow84lx

clean it good before insertion
Jul 3, 2005
372
180
63
Dallas, TX
Jul 30, 2006
#3
  • Jul 30, 2006
  • #3
I've been needing the above information. Thanks for posting those links.
 

stangjunkie

New Member
Nov 15, 2004
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0
Aug 1, 2006
#4
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #4
this is an 88 converted to mass air is code dump the same way?? it has the a9l computer.... just making sure its the same
 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
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Morganton, NC
Aug 1, 2006
#5
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #5
I don't think you will have a CEL, so you will have to hook up a light to the wires, or get a code scanner, but everything else is the same.
 

ninety15.0

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Mar 10, 2004
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Aug 1, 2006
#6
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #6
how far advanced is the timing. I have experienced low speed/load/rpm bucking as well and i believe the timing advance has something to do with it. Clean the MAF...and set the idle...see if that clears it up!
 

68torinogt

Hey guys, guess what--I have a bi-pass!!!
Mar 21, 2006
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53
Welcome my son, welcome to the machine
Aug 1, 2006
#7
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #7
i had a 89 gt that did it but it was the cam b303. it sounded bad a$$ and ran good just not at low rpm.
personaly i wouldnt buy another b-cam because of this.
 
1

1SLO306

My 97 GTP owns you ALL!
Mar 31, 2005
904
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17
Muhlenberg, ky
Aug 1, 2006
#8
  • Aug 1, 2006
  • #8
pics i wanna see my old intake being put to good use!!!
 

stangjunkie

New Member
Nov 15, 2004
381
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Aug 2, 2006
#9
  • Aug 2, 2006
  • #9
lol i think they said 37* total timing im not i genuis when it comes to this stuff. problem with setting idle sometimes it goes all the way up to like 1500 and sometimes its good at 900 i dunno why this happens either
 

evilwater

New Member
Jul 30, 2003
70
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0
windom MN
Aug 7, 2006
#10
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #10
i have the same problem and just about the same setup what you running for timming i moved mine up to 14 im thinking about bringing it back to 10. i also read some where that i could be the o2 sensors so im going to change thouse out. and im going to put the stock mass air back in and see if that makes any diff. everyone that i have seen that has this problem eather has the mass air systems mass air or the C&L. i have the mass air systems and alreays had it sent in once for a tune.
 

jrichker

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#11
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #11
evilwater said:
i have the same problem and just about the same setup what you running for timming i moved mine up to 14 im thinking about bringing it back to 10. i also read some where that i could be the o2 sensors so im going to change thouse out. and im going to put the stock mass air back in and see if that makes any diff. everyone that i have seen that has this problem eather has the mass air systems mass air or the C&L. i have the mass air systems and alreays had it sent in once for a tune.
Click to expand...
How come pepole throw parts at problems rather than try to diagnose the problem? Dump the codes & get some answers. It will save you time & money.
 
9

90bluegt

Founding Member
Dec 9, 1999
592
0
16
Aug 7, 2006
#12
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #12
Guys -
Listen to jrichker he knows what he is talking about. I had major issue, dumped the codes like he said now, my car is just about finished (limited time to work on it). Pulled the codes and there were some major things wrong. This has fixed my check engine light and just about eliminated all the codes.

He also helped out with fixing the codes as well.
Thanks
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
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Arizona
Aug 7, 2006
#13
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #13
90bluegt said:
Guys -
Listen to jrichker he knows what he is talking about. I had major issue, dumped the codes like he said now, my car is just about finished (limited time to work on it). Pulled the codes and there were some major things wrong. This has fixed my check engine light and just about eliminated all the codes.

He also helped out with fixing the codes as well.
Thanks
Click to expand...

+ 1000

Listen to jrichker!! He is the MAN
 

evilwater

New Member
Jul 30, 2003
70
0
0
windom MN
Aug 7, 2006
#14
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #14
pulled codes but dont know what they mean i have code 67,81,82,95. the codes ran though twice and then the light flashed once then it gave me some new once and they are 29,32,66,95. i really have no idea at this point????
 
9

90bluegt

Founding Member
Dec 9, 1999
592
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Aug 7, 2006
#15
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #15
Check the link out and match the codes you are getting to what the link states they are.

http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

67 (o): Clutch switch open, AC left on, transmission in gear.

81 (o): TAD or AM-2 (Thermactor Air Diverter)/ Secondary Air Injection Bypass (AIRB) solenoid circuit failure, or SCVNT (Speed Control Vent) circuit failure (IVSC test). 81 (o): 2.3 Turbo. Boost control circuit failure.

82: TAB or AM-1 (Thermactor Air Bypass)/ Secondary Air Injection Diverter (AIRD) solenoid circuit failure, or SCVAC (Speed Control Vacuum) circuit failure (IVSC test).

95 (oc): Fuel Pump Monitor circuit problems, processor to pump motor ground. Suspect inertia switch, FP relay, harness.

29 (c): VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) voltage too low.

32 (orc): EVP or PFE voltage below closed limit.

66 (rc*): MAF (2.3 Turbo, VAF) below minimum test voltage. -- I Cleaned the MAF and it cleared this for me..

You need to clear these codes and your car will run even better.

Thanks
 

evilwater

New Member
Jul 30, 2003
70
0
0
windom MN
Aug 9, 2006
#16
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #16
changed the o2s and the serging problem is gone so happy but it still does the bucking. im going to put my timming back to 10.
 
9

90bluegt

Founding Member
Dec 9, 1999
592
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16
Aug 9, 2006
#17
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #17
Are you still getting codes, if so then get those fixed before you change the timing.
 
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