Door Latches Hard To Open

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
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North Charleston, SC
I'm having minor issues with my door latches being a little tough to open.
On the driver's side the door is hard to open from the inside and on the passenger side the door is hard to open on the outside. Is there a way to adjust the latch mechanisms?
 
Do the doors "pop" open when you pull the handle hard. Like maybe the rubber weather strip is new and the door striker pin needs adjusted out a hair? If not start by squirting some lube in the latch. There is an adjustment on the outside handle. However you need to pull the door panel and adjust the rod from the handle to the latch. The inner handle does not adjust however you can adjust it by bending the rod slightly to make it move easier or bend it with a pair of pliers to shorten the pull. Have you tried the handles with the top down versus up? Sometimes on a vert the top seal adjustment will cause pressure against the door. If it works nice with the top or windows down, start looking there.
 
Do the doors "pop" open when you pull the handle hard. Like maybe the rubber weather strip is new and the door striker pin needs adjusted out a hair? If not start by squirting some lube in the latch. There is an adjustment on the outside handle. However you need to pull the door panel and adjust the rod from the handle to the latch. The inner handle does not adjust however you can adjust it by bending the rod slightly to make it move easier or bend it with a pair of pliers to shorten the pull. Have you tried the handles with the top down versus up? Sometimes on a vert the top seal adjustment will cause pressure against the door. If it works nice with the top or windows down, start looking there.

Well, on the passenger side you have to lift up really far on the handle to get the latch to release. At first it feels like the door is locked but then it finally opens. It is the same regardless of the top or windows though
 
Passenger side sounds like you need to pull the panel and adjust. However you might consider replacing the handle if its old. They get worn also and will break from pulling up on it like that. May scratch the car if it breaks. I'd adjust the rod and if the handle seems loose I'd replace it. Cheap fix. P.S. you need a BIG pop rivet gun to do the job right. A two hander!
 
Passenger side sounds like you need to pull the panel and adjust. However you might consider replacing the handle if its old. They get worn also and will break from pulling up on it like that. May scratch the car if it breaks. I'd adjust the rod and if the handle seems loose I'd replace it. Cheap fix. P.S. you need a BIG pop rivet gun to do the job right. A two hander!

I'll pull the panel this weekend and take a look at it.
Sounds like a trip to Harbor Freight might be in order.
Thanks for the input.
 
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I haven't looked at it too closely, but it appears at some point my driver's door handle was replaced (albeit with a factory plastic one) . However, the handle is secured using two bolts instead of rivets as was done at the factory.

Can bolts be used when replacing the handle instead of rivets?

(Sorry to digress cdurbin)
 
If it doesn't work nice with the top down, check your door hinges for play. If your hinges are worn, the door will hang on the striker when it's closed putting downward pressure on it making it hard to pull the handle. My hatch had the same symptoms as yours. My hinge pins were shot and there was a decent amount of up and down play in my doors.
 
I can practically guarantee you the hinge pin bushings are worn out, allowing the door to sag. Open the door and lift up on it, if you can move it up and down indepenent of the car, that's what it is.
 
I actually just had my door panel off and was looking at this after reading this thread earlier this morning. For some dumb reason, I didn't snap a picture.

Inside the door the handle is connected to a metal linkage rod that rides on another linkage with a washer type device on it. As the door handle is pulled upward and rotates it pushes down on the linkage, which contacts the washer type device, and then pushes that linkage to open the door latch. Aside from bending these metal rods, there didn't appear to be much adjustability.
 
I haven't looked at it too closely, but it appears at some point my driver's door handle was replaced (albeit with a factory plastic one) . However, the handle is secured using two bolts instead of rivets as was done at the factory.

Can bolts be used when replacing the handle instead of rivets?

(Sorry to digress cdurbin)

I used bolts to hold my door handles on. Works good. I see no need to go out and buy a rivet gun when a short nut and bolt combo works perfectly.
 
My buddy used bolts, and they loosened up over the years, turned out to be a mess. I would think they would work fine as long as you size them properly, and use ny-lock nuts (aka aircraft nuts).
 
If it doesn't work nice with the top down, check your door hinges for play. If your hinges are worn, the door will hang on the striker when it's closed putting downward pressure on it making it hard to pull the handle. My hatch had the same symptoms as yours. My hinge pins were shot and there was a decent amount of up and down play in my doors.

You guessed it. Passenger side door hinge bushings appear worn out.
If I lift up on the door there is a little play in there.
Thanks
 
Ideas on this...

When I close the door it sometimes self locks... This is a PITA at times of course.

I think it may come from locking the car with the handle in the open/extended position. Has anyone ever seen this? Frigging weird.
 
I used bolts to hold my door handles on. Works good. I see no need to go out and buy a rivet gun when a short nut and bolt combo works perfectly.

I also used a nut and bolt combo so easy and using lock washers and a dab of locktight as well been 1 year and no loosening yet and i dont thing it will i think i used 1/4 inch or 6mm with a very flat head that uses a alan head i think i got them at home depot or copper state nut and bolt.