Drag Radial Advice?

xtrm281gt

New Member
Jul 31, 2003
152
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Sacramento, CA
I just got my nitto's installed on my car today, 2 questions...

1. When I am doing my staging burnout to heat up the tires after I get them wet in the water pit should I be popping the clutch from 2nd or a start from 1st and the hitting 2nd before I let off the pedal?

2. After I got my tires heated up and I am staged and ready to race should I be popping from 1st or 2nd and at what RPM???

ps - i already know I should drop the psi down to about 18 in my dr's
 
im confused? I thought people just spun in first gear and held around 4000 rpms until they were done with the burnout and their slicks/nittos were heat cycled? Everytime i heard the cars at the track i never hear a pause for a shift when they burnout????

kirkyg
 
daver01 said:
water box = slicks

no h2o needed for nittos. :nice:


Not true.

Drop the hammer in second gear after you roll through the water box. Hold your burnout for a good 7 seconds and roll out of it, burning up any water left by the front tires. Once you feel the traction start kicking in, let off and roll up to the starting line.

To launch, your not going to be able to just dump the clutch. You'll need to slip the clutch and feather the throttle throught your whole launch to get your best 60's.
 
kirkyg said:
im confused? I thought people just spun in first gear and held around 4000 rpms until they were done with the burnout and their slicks/nittos were heat cycled? Everytime i heard the cars at the track i never hear a pause for a shift when they burnout????

kirkyg

I don't think it would be possible to shift during a burnout. Start in 2nd.
 
Do your burnout in 2nd gear. The tires will spin faster and you can get them hotter faster. Plus it is easier to hold the burnout. Just rev the engine to about 5000rpms and slip your foot off the clutch to the side or to the back so it pops up on its own. Don't lift up with your foot or you will burn out the clutch. This is what the guy who built my car told me, and he recently won the Real Street class at the Bradenton NMRA event a couple weeks ago.
 
I back into the burn out box, get the back tires a little wet, pull up, turn on the line loc, rev to about 3000 and dump it (in 2nd gear) I have 3.73s and it does fine. if it starts to bog a bit just give it more gas......just my $0.02 :banana:
 
A line lock is your friend, and makes burnouts much easier and better.

- I back into the water box (make sure to drive around it so you do not get water on the front tires)
- Spin the tires once (just to get them uniformly wet)
- Pull out of the water box and stop (do not do a burnout in the water box :nonono:)
- Shift into 2nd
- Engage line lock
- Rev engine to about 4000-5000 rpm
- Drop clutch
- Spin the tires for about 5 seconds or so until they just start to smoke good
- Release line lock
- Keep my foot on the gas until the car starts to bog down, that is the tires start to grip (you will be moving forward at this point)
- Once tires grip left off gas and come to a stop
- Shift back to 1st gear and pull up to the line

I rev it up to about 5000 or so rpm and slip/quick-drop the clutch out of the hole. I run 15" BFGs so if you are running 17" nittos you will probably not be able to rev that high, and will require more clutch work for good 60' times. On a good track hold on because you are going to take off like never before :D

I have pulled a best of 1.77 60' on my drag radials (last night actually), but I average low 1.8's.
 
So you guys are saying you drive around the water box and back up to the water, then roll forward a bit to make sure the entire tires are wet, shift into 2nd gear and rev to 5,000 rpms and slide your foot to the left and the clutch will engage instantly right?

What do you do after about 5-6 seconds? Do you ease off the gas and as the car begins to move hit your clutch and shift back into to first and move in position?

kirkyg
 
kirkyg said:
So you guys are saying you drive around the water box and back up to the water, then roll forward a bit to make sure the entire tires are wet, shift into 2nd gear and rev to 5,000 rpms and slide your foot to the left and the clutch will engage instantly right?

What do you do after about 5-6 seconds? Do you ease off the gas and as the car begins to move hit your clutch and shift back into to first and move in position?

kirkyg

After about five seconds or so, I release the line lock and the car will naturally begin moving forward slowly. The tires will begin to catch traction, and at that point you let off the gas and coast to the staging line.
 
kirkyg said:
So you guys are saying you drive around the water box and back up to the water, then roll forward a bit to make sure the entire tires are wet, shift into 2nd gear and rev to 5,000 rpms and slide your foot to the left and the clutch will engage instantly right?

What do you do after about 5-6 seconds? Do you ease off the gas and as the car begins to move hit your clutch and shift back into to first and move in position?

kirkyg
Back into the water and do a very small burnout as in about one rotation of the tire. If you don't do this that often then its no big deal but if you are going to turn into a frequent drag racer you have to invest in a line lock. Incase you don't know what it is i will explain. It is a valve in you brake line. You apply brake, activate line lock, release brake, now your front brakes are still applied. Do your burnout, release line lock. It is a must have for the frequent racer, saves your brakes and makes for a much easier burnout in a standard shift car.
 
How much does a line lock setup cost? I really dont have money to spend on that right now. I know plenty of people do burnouts at the track in their stickshifts without line lock so i dont see how it is really necessary.

kirkyg