Drag Radials (Whats the best and where to buy?)

uhoh5.0

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
354
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17
Montgomery, AL
I am finally going to buy a set of drag radials to mount on an extra pair of wheels I bought. With the new converter I get ZERO traction and I know I will definately need drag radials come spring (especially with the spray:D ) Anyhow, the 3 brands that I am considering are nitto, BFG, and M/T. What brand and type of drag radial have you guys had the most success with and where is the best place to purchase from? They will be going on a set of 17x8 wheels, so I am thinking 275/40-17. Opinions???
 
Depends, from what i've learned through my research its like this.

Nittos = Alot more streetable and last considerably longer than the other 2
BFG = Hook better than the Nittos, cost less, but are less streetable and don't last as long
M/T = Pretty much the stickiest DR out there and also don't last for crap.
Hope that helps you make your decision.
Go either to onlinetires.com or tirerack.com to buy
 
Depends, from what i've learned through my research its like this.

Nittos = Alot more streetable and last considerably longer than the other 2
BFG = Hook better than the Nittos, cost less, but are less streetable and don't last as long
M/T = Pretty much the stickiest DR out there and also don't last for crap.
Hope that helps you make your decision.
Go either to onlinetires.com or tirerack.com to buy

if i may add on, Nittos probably hook the worst out of the group. BFG's are great if you drive your car on the street alot but hook when you need them to. i personally like Mickeys the best. ET Streets dead on hook and the M/T drag radials are a better choce if its gonna see more street time.
 
MT ET Street Radials, or if you're only going to be using them at the track ET Streets (bias plys). Theres no point in going with a streetable drag tire if you're going to be using other tires for the street anyway.

BTW, I think MT ET Street radials last alot longer than most people tend to believe... Mine are 95% and have been to the track a bunch, and driven on the street a couple weeks in a row. My buddy has a LS1 goat and runs them all the time (they are his primary tires for both street and track) and he has 12k on them without even reaching the wear bars. It's all about properly heat cycling the tires and letting them cure.

Like so! After doing so the wheels go off and get hungup on a hook so they can cure more uniform (rather than keeping them on the car and getting a flat or hard spot on the bottom).
 
I have BFG KDW's in 285/40-17 for my street tires and before I got my converter I could really hook well with them even with the 4.10s. I was able to run 2.0 60 foot times consistently at the track and on the street with my suspension set-up the car would pretty much squat and go. I recently bought an extra pair of wheels to mount some track only tires on (99 17" GT wheels) and I just want to get the best tire combo. The main reason I listed the BFG's was because I have had pretty good luck with the KDW's and thought that their drag radial might be good. I think I'll check into the ET streets as well as the M/T drag radials.
Thanks guys
 
MT ET Street Radials, or if you're only going to be using them at the track ET Streets (bias plys). Theres no point in going with a streetable drag tire if you're going to be using other tires for the street anyway.

BTW, I think MT ET Street radials last alot longer than most people tend to believe... Mine are 95% and have been to the track a bunch, and driven on the street a couple weeks in a row. My buddy has a LS1 goat and runs them all the time (they are his primary tires for both street and track) and he has 12k on them without even reaching the wear bars. It's all about properly heat cycling the tires and letting them cure.

Like so! After doing so the wheels go off and get hungup on a hook so they can cure more uniform (rather than keeping them on the car and getting a flat or hard spot on the bottom).
I wouldn't want to run ET Streets on my stock diff. and axles...too afraid to snap something
 
Axles are ~200, bearing kit is ~80, diff can be had for ~80 used, trac-lok rebuild with carbon packs is what ~60? That's $420. I picked up a set of Alloy USA axles, used 31 spline trac-lok diff, motive master bearing kit, and FRPP 3.73 gears for $520. All I need is a trac-lok rebuild kit if I want to actually install the stuff...but I'm not sure if I'll be keeping the car so it'll wait till spring if I do. Install is easy if you know what you're doing.
 
Axles are ~200, bearing kit is ~80, diff can be had for ~80 used, trac-lok rebuild with carbon packs is what ~60? That's $420. I picked up a set of Alloy USA axles, used 31 spline trac-lok diff, motive master bearing kit, and FRPP 3.73 gears for $520. All I need is a trac-lok rebuild kit if I want to actually install the stuff...but I'm not sure if I'll be keeping the car so it'll wait till spring if I do. Install is easy if you know what you're doing.

Well, if you decide not to install, lemme know and i might take those parts off your hands minus the 3.73's :nice:
 
I've heard Nittos DRs dont even hook better than a really good set of street tires like the kdw2 or gs-d3s.


At my cars current 292RWHP W/ 3.73 gears, I put on 205/50/14s nitto DRs(Something to that effect...like 23 inches tall and narrow :rlaugh: ) and went for a drive. Blew off 1st, but second spun a little and threw me back into the seat. Hooked like that everytime...honestly they hooked just about as good as my 275/50/15 nitto DRs :lol: . Im not sure how that possable, but they hooked great.

Beats my 285 kumho street tires by FAR, and also my dad sumi 315s (those hook GREAT actually...really simular to the nittos on the street. But at the track, the nittos BLOW them away) .

275 nittos = 1.89 60' (regular track, WED night prep)
285 kumhos = 1.91 60' (FFW @ HRP W/ AWSOME prep)
315 Sumis = 1.99 60' (just after FFW @ HRP...still great prep)