• Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

drive shaft loop

  • Thread starter Thread starter xtweakerx
  • Start date Start date Nov 27, 2007
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
Nov 27, 2007
#1
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #1
Anyone know a good brand to use? and/or one that requires the least amount of install work, so its not a huge pain in the ass.
 

Emay

Member
Oct 4, 2006
228
1
18
South Elgin, IL
Nov 27, 2007
#2
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #2
I personally like this BMR piece..

http://www.pmpparts.com/index.php?m...id=281&zenid=f3376d02bb05c8110c9c6e48b2cdff5d
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Nov 27, 2007
#3
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #3
I bought the BMR rear piece instead of the front loop because it does not require removal of the driveshaft to install and winds up close to the center of the shaft. Either of the BMR pieces should be fine if you have a onepiece drive shaft. If you still have the stock 2 piece shaft you will need both pieces.


http://www.pmpparts.com/index.php?m...id=282&zenid=f3376d02bb05c8110c9c6e48b2cdff5d
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
Nov 27, 2007
#4
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #4
I also say BMR. From all the ones I had looked at, they have the easiest install. No drilling or welding required. That's why I went with them. You have to drop the front of the driveshaft for the front loop, but it's very easy. I'm a complete novice when it comes to working on cars, other than changing oil and brakes, and I found it to be the easiest thing I've done to the car, besides installing the CAI. If you have a one-piece driveshaft, you only need the front (though the rear wouldn't hurt). If you have a stock driveshaft, get front and rear.
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
Nov 27, 2007
#5
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #5
Casey4s said:
I bought the BMR rear piece instead of the front loop because it does not require removal of the driveshaft to install and winds up close to the center of the shaft. Either of the BMR pieces should be fine if you have a onepiece drive shaft. If you still have the stock 2 piece shaft you will need both pieces.
Click to expand...

If you only get the rear, and your driveshaft breaks at the end of the track, your car becomes a catapult. If you're only going to purchase one or the other, always go with the front. I know mythbusters proved you can't actually launch your car with a broke driveshaft, but you do get quite a bit of air if you hit it right, plus you'll damage your rear end. If you only have a front loop and the one piece driveshaft breaks, the worst that happens is you drag your driveshaft on the cement.
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Nov 27, 2007
#6
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #6
DarkFireGT said:
If you only get the rear, and your driveshaft breaks at the end of the track, your car becomes a catapult. If you're only going to purchase one or the other, always go with the front. I know mythbusters proved you can't actually launch your car with a broke driveshaft, but you do get quite a bit of air if you hit it right, plus you'll damage your rear end. If you only have a front loop and the one piece driveshaft breaks, the worst that happens is you drag your driveshaft on the cement.
Click to expand...



Where this loop winds up on the driveshaft prevents the front of the shaft from dropping down onto the pavement. This rear loop is not really at the rear of the shaft at all but closer to the middle.
 

stangdude2000

Founding Member
Jun 23, 2001
1,727
0
0
Northern VA
Nov 27, 2007
#7
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #7
DarkFireGT said:
If you only get the rear, and your driveshaft breaks at the end of the track, your car becomes a catapult. If you're only going to purchase one or the other, always go with the front. I know mythbusters proved you can't actually launch your car with a broke driveshaft, but you do get quite a bit of air if you hit it right, plus you'll damage your rear end. If you only have a front loop and the one piece driveshaft breaks, the worst that happens is you drag your driveshaft on the cement.
Click to expand...

I think you've got that backwards - if you are supporting the front of the driveshaft and it breaks in the middle, the rear section would drop, giving you the "catapult" action. If you are supporting the rear, unless the driveshaft breaks behind the loop, the front section will drop, "harmlessly" dragging along the ground.
 

Emay

Member
Oct 4, 2006
228
1
18
South Elgin, IL
Nov 27, 2007
#8
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #8
It is not often that a drive shaft breaks in the middle. They tend to twist there but not break. Especially when talking about 400 to 550hp cars. The weak links are the connection points at the ends. So either the front drops or rear drops based upon which end breaks..

On a one piece shaft you want your loop at the front or middle, not in the rear. This way if the shaft snaps up front the loop catches it before going to the concrete and causing you enormous back half damage by digging in in the same direction of your travel. If the rear snaps, the shaft falls to the concrete and since it is facing away from the direction of travel, it cannot dig into the concrete for more damage.

The loop is really mainly on the car to stop mass tunnel damage and possible passenger compartment entry. If you have ever seen one let go on the big end of the track, you know what I'm talking about. Just imagine having to refloor your mustang entirely.
 

StonePony

New Member
Jan 10, 2006
218
0
0
Nov 27, 2007
#9
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #9
Highly recommending the GMS loop.
It installs using existing studs for the heat shields. No removal of driveshaft necessary because the front loop is in two pieces.
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Nov 27, 2007
#10
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #10
I just sent an eMail to BMR tech to ask for their opinion. I see both points to this and am curious what they say. I will post the answer from them when (if) they reply.

This question is about using only one loop on a one piece drive shaft, two loops are required with the factory two piece shaft system.
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Nov 27, 2007
#11
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #11
StonePony said:
Highly recommending the GMS loop.
It installs using existing studs for the heat shields. No removal of driveshaft necessary because the front loop is in two pieces.
Click to expand...

Got a link?
 

StonePony

New Member
Jan 10, 2006
218
0
0
Nov 27, 2007
#12
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #12
NHRA rules are what count. They say the solid shaft requires only a front loop.
 

StonePony

New Member
Jan 10, 2006
218
0
0
Nov 27, 2007
#13
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #13
sure here you go:

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/product_display.php?gid=35

I only used the front one in the set. 30 minute installation time.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
Nov 27, 2007
#14
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #14
i still have the stock shaft, i mean hell i prob wouldnt get one but i think my track is cracking down on any cars in the 13 second zone to have one.. We'll see how it goes.

But hell if i got to remove the shaft might as well get a new shaft and loop.

Anyone know any good one piece shafts that are like not expensive as balls?! i think i saw a some shaft for like $500+ ? =[

What are the nhra rules for the loop and/or using the loop on the stock shaft, do you "NEED" two loops?

I remember my old fox body, i just had one loop towards the front.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
Nov 27, 2007
#15
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #15
ive never seen a drive shaft break on a 12 or 13 second car either, lame.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Nov 27, 2007
#16
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #16
back in high school, i was riding in a buddy's early 80s cadillac. the rear u-joints failed. there was just a huge thunk, thunk, thunk coming from under the car. the drive shaft was still spinning for a while after we stopped. i dont think my buddy ever put it in park until after it stopped spinning. it beat the hell out of the floorpan. it was a scary situation even for the rear only to break. imagine what can happen at high speeds....we were only going about 40-45 at the time.
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Nov 27, 2007
#17
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #17
DarkFireGT said:
If you only get the rear, and your driveshaft breaks at the end of the track, your car becomes a catapult. If you're only going to purchase one or the other, always go with the front. I know mythbusters proved you can't actually launch your car with a broke driveshaft, but you do get quite a bit of air if you hit it right, plus you'll damage your rear end. If you only have a front loop and the one piece driveshaft breaks, the worst that happens is you drag your driveshaft on the cement.
Click to expand...

OK, you WIN!

I got a reply from BMR and this is what they said:


"We recommend that you use the DSL010 if you have u joint failure the front failing will do far more damage than the rear. Although the DSL011 will support the shaft incase of failure it is to far rearward to support the front.If you use the 2 piece shaft then you would need both.Thanks," dennis@bmrfabrication.com(813)986-9302

(DSL 010 = front, DSL 011 = rear)


The reason I like Stangnet is to learn stuff, and I certianly did today, I guess I'll have to invest in the front loop too.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
Nov 27, 2007
#18
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #18
gayyyy i dont want both.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
Nov 27, 2007
#19
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #19
more money i could spend else where on the car which will actually make some kind of difference. *tears*
 

Emay

Member
Oct 4, 2006
228
1
18
South Elgin, IL
Nov 27, 2007
#20
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #20
spydershaft is the $500 unit..

Here's a linky:

http://www.leonardracingproducts.com/drive01.php
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Car shakes when taking off help???
  • STANKYstangs
  • May 10, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
12
Views
176
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- May 27, 2026
LILCBRA
Fox Good shop in Washington state or Oregon
  • keel
  • May 14, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
2
Views
73
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 20, 2026
keel
D
What's it Worth? 2006 Mustang GT Convertable
  • doc0075579
  • Mar 2, 2026
  • What is it Worth?!?!?
Replies
0
Views
183
What is it Worth?!?!? Mar 2, 2026
doc0075579
D
K
3.8 T5 & Bellhousing to 1987 Lincoln 5.0
  • ks65stang
  • Mar 2, 2026
  • Other Auto Tech
Replies
3
Views
239
Other Auto Tech Mar 3, 2026
Noobz347
C
Paxton novi 1200SL
  • Cambo617
  • Oct 9, 2025
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Replies
0
Views
136
2005 - 2009 Specific Tech Oct 9, 2025
Cambo617
C
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?