driveshaft removal

growler · Oct 29, 2005

What size external torx does it take to get the driveshaft off?

juiced_94gt · Oct 29, 2005

it's not a reverse torx, its a 12 point 11mm or 12mm i forget which one dut do use a 12pt. socket or wrench.

growler · Oct 29, 2005

thanks

HISSIN50 · Oct 29, 2005

The inverted Torx you need is a 7/11" with metric tapered edges.

12 mm 12 point.

In my very young days, I was doing a VW clutch and saw bolts like that. I knew that I needed a 12 point socket but did not know what they looked like. Took a trip to the store to realize that I had those. I just had not conceptualized how the fastener head and 12 point socket would fit together. So dont feel bad.

blksn955.o · Oct 29, 2005

Its a PITFA too, use some heat from like a propane torch to get the bolt hot, also spray some panther piss/wd40/liquid wrench on it before too.

I broke 2-3 12pt 12mm sockets one 1/2in 12pt 12mmimpact socket (after getting 3 off) and bent a 12pt 12mm wrench (used a floor jack to put the force on it and the car lifted up and then bent the wrench)...finaly got the last one off with a 1/2in 12pt 12mm.

Methodical · Oct 30, 2005

Here's how I got the bolts off the the first time. I used a 12mm 12pt wrench and a sludge hammer. I tapped the wrench with the sludge hammer to loosen the bolts. Option, you can get a long pipe that fits over the wrench for leverage - same theory as a breaker bar. Also, remember to mark the draftshaft and always and I mean always use "antiseize" on any bolt under the car, especially exhaust bolts, once removed, including the driveshaft bolts. You will have a much easier time removing them in the future. Peace

HISSIN50 · Oct 30, 2005

Methodical said:
.... and always and I mean always use "antiseize" on any bolt under the car, especially exhaust bolts, once removed, including the driveshaft bolts. You will have a much easier time removing them in the future. Peace

I will respectfully disagree. The DS bolts come from the factory with threadlock on them (that is why some folks struggle so much getting them out). And if threadlock is not used upon reinstallation, the bolts can back-out. That is not a game I would want to play.

That was a good point about indexing the DS. All DS components should be indexed, as you said.

Methodical · Oct 30, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
I will respectfully disagree. The DS bolts come from the factory with threadlock on them (that is why some folks struggle so much getting them out). And if threadlock is not used upon reinstallation, the bolts can back-out. That is not a game I would want to play.

I've run my DS like this since changing to an aluminum DS (10/1998) and never had an issue of bolts backing out. And I've removed the DS many times since then to install cats for emissions, change clutch, rebuilt engine (remove tranny) and bolts were never loose. They were all tight. But that's my opinion and that is what has worked for me. Just One Man's Opinion. Peace

payupsucka · Oct 30, 2005

heat 12mm box wrench thats how i got mine out last night

mo_dingo · Oct 30, 2005

Methodical said:
Here's how I got the bolts off the the first time. I used a 12mm 12pt wrench and a sludge hammer. I tapped the wrench with the sludge hammer to loosen the bolts. Option, you can get a long pipe that fits over the wrench for leverage - same theory as a breaker bar. Also, remember to mark the draftshaft and always and I mean always use "antiseize" on any bolt under the car, especially exhaust bolts, once removed, including the driveshaft bolts. You will have a much easier time removing them in the future. Peace

sludge hammer isn't very good for this application. You might want to try another the sledge kind.....lol.....sorry..

But seriously, you can get a wrench that has both 10 and 12mm closed end on both sides. It's somewhat long, and both sides have an offset. I got it at autozone and it worked for me.

But the last time I did a DS I simply put a 12pt 12mm socket w/ about a foot of extensions on it. Worked fine. But with the DS being at a slight angle, it makes the u-joints get in the way for 1 or 2 bolts. And note to self. Always clean the threads on the pinion flange and bolts before installing them w/ loctite. It make them go in like butter.
Scott

droptopford 5 0 · Oct 30, 2005

just a somewhat-related question to the subject... if you should index all d/s pieces when installing/ un-installing them, how are you to install a new driveshaft, new rear-end, or new transmission when theres obviously no previous way of indexing them so they lign up?.. im planning on putting in a new t-5 and wonder how i can allign it with the old driveshaft?

urban96 · Oct 30, 2005

droptopford 5 0 said:
just a somewhat-related question to the subject... if you should index all d/s pieces when installing/ un-installing them, how are you to install a new driveshaft, new rear-end, or new transmission when theres obviously no previous way of indexing them so they lign up?.. im planning on putting in a new t-5 and wonder how i can allign it with the old driveshaft?

DS to trans dosent really need to be indexed, it should just slide right in the back of the trans

HISSIN50 · Oct 31, 2005

The driveline (DS, pinion, etc) are loosely balanced at the factory. As said, unless the output shaft is spun while the DS is out, that wont change much. But the rest should be indexed. The vibrations get worse down stream, so near the trans is not that important (momentary forces or some mumbo jumbo like that).

Alum DS's are balanced a little better and have less rotating mass so they are not as likely to vibrate in the first place.

They still can for some folks - a dynamic balance at a driveline shop is the fix.

blksn955.o · Oct 31, 2005

There is a bit of a keyway on the spline (mine did anway) that only let the yoke of the DS fit the output shaft of the t-5 one way.

droptopford 5 0 · Nov 1, 2005

thanks for all the feedback guys, hopefully one less problem i will surely run into... theres always something

driveshaft removal

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