Dropping the Engine in

I use 2 treaded studs in the bell housing bolt holes to guide in alining.
{make sure that you use holes that are easily removable}
with auto's I put the converter bolts at the hours 3,6,9,12 and turn the crank to match.
With sticks i make sure the spline grooves are at 12.

PB

cant you just rotate either the engine or the torque converter until the holes line up? or are they not lining up in a diffrent way?

I would do the bellhousing before the TC-to-flexplate nuts, just make sure the TC bolts are in their holes before fastening the bellhousing. There's no real rule to getting the mounts on before or after the tranny but here's what I do.

Connect the upper part of the engine mount to the block but keep them VERY loose for maneuverability.

Connect the lower part of the engine mount to the frame but keep them VERY loose for maneuverability.

Lower the engine into approximate place and push the long bolts through the mounts (connect the upper and lower portions) but do not tighten ANY part of the mounts until the tranny is connected. Make sure the middle and rear tranny mounts are in the correct locations.

Then tighten the upper and lower engine mounts, then toghten the middle (long) bolts on the engine mounts.

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Like I said this is not some sort of rule but it has worked fine for me many times.

If you dropped the engine and tranny in as one hole assembly you should have done this before dropping it in. I simply make the studs at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions and same with the flexplate. If you line it up and the studs still dont appear, just install the tranny loosley to the engine, and rotate the motor a back and forth until the studs slip through their holes.

Mike

One note: the t.c. has to be fully seated in the tranny. Turn the t.c. while putting inward pressure on it; you should hear at least four or five clicks.