Plain and simple...It'll burn all the fuel I can get through the current 750 4bbl Edelbrock with a RPM II intake. I mean I guess it should having been bored 60 over, 14:1 pistons, roller cam, roller valvetrain, and a twisted & weighted crank. So I was toying with the idea of topping it off with an additional carb. Does anyone run twins on their's? How difficult is it to dial in? and most of all... Are they RELIABLE?
Dual Carb setup on stroked K-code
- Thread starter MyHotRodGT
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zookeeper
Founding Member
Here's a good street setup (not that you'll be doing much street driving with that comp ratio) buy a repro manifold for two Holleys (Mustangs Unlimited sells them) and bolt 2 390 cfm Holley vacuum secondary carbs on. There isn't much need for tuning and it works exceptionally well. BTW, what the heck is a "twisted" crank? Also, why on earth would you bore a small block .060 over? Anyway, good luck with your carb setup.
TurboDoctor
Founding Member
I would use a dominator or some other brand of big cfm carb. What octane rating are you running with 14:1 ??
Yea, I always thought the duals on the 427 in the Shelby Cobra set it off as being bada$$.With 14:1 we usually run either CAM2 or a mix of Amoco 93 and CAM2. A twisted crank is basically where the crank is literally offset to make the most of each power stroke which makes it easier to draw power. Twisted cranks also have revised counter weights. The guy at Summit said that with the Jack Roush Pistons with that high of a comression ratio a twsited crank would make it more street friendly and less violent in mild driving.
I can see why you wouldnt understand the point of boring a 289. Well theres a simple story behind it. The car sat for about 5 years without being run. Once we did get it running it of course had problems especially overheating. Well once we came across some money we pulled the engine out and found that not one but 2 cylinders were cracked. So we trashed that block since modding it was useless. The only other K code we could find hadnt run in a year. When we took it to the machine shop they said theyed have to go down to at least .030 over to get a smooth bore. When they got to .030 the bore still wasnt smooth. Dad told em to get it smooth and they finally did at .060.
The machine shop had to do a lot of polishing and other odds and ends to get it able to handle what we wanted to do.The Jack Roush pistons had to have special clearances and is why most of the work had to be done.
But the main reason we wanted to stick with the 289 is because it came from the factory with a 289K. It looks like a stock K code with digital electronic ignition, 351W heads, BlackJack' & RPM II intake. Other than that it doesnt hint at all to whats inside...until its fired up. Esentially just a sleeper.
I can see why you wouldnt understand the point of boring a 289. Well theres a simple story behind it. The car sat for about 5 years without being run. Once we did get it running it of course had problems especially overheating. Well once we came across some money we pulled the engine out and found that not one but 2 cylinders were cracked. So we trashed that block since modding it was useless. The only other K code we could find hadnt run in a year. When we took it to the machine shop they said theyed have to go down to at least .030 over to get a smooth bore. When they got to .030 the bore still wasnt smooth. Dad told em to get it smooth and they finally did at .060.
The machine shop had to do a lot of polishing and other odds and ends to get it able to handle what we wanted to do.The Jack Roush pistons had to have special clearances and is why most of the work had to be done.
But the main reason we wanted to stick with the 289 is because it came from the factory with a 289K. It looks like a stock K code with digital electronic ignition, 351W heads, BlackJack' & RPM II intake. Other than that it doesnt hint at all to whats inside...until its fired up. Esentially just a sleeper.
I used to run dual quads on my solid cammed 289.
Looked awesome, was reliable enough for daily use but was a pain to tune.
I eventually went to a single carb setup and make more power a lot easier.
But I sure do miss the look of the dual quad setup...
Looked awesome, was reliable enough for daily use but was a pain to tune.
I eventually went to a single carb setup and make more power a lot easier.
But I sure do miss the look of the dual quad setup...
just wanting some info on dual 500 cfm carbs and a rpm air gap intake on a 347 stroked engine with trick flow twisted wedge heads . i reckon the question is right now i got a bbk upper and lower intake 30 pound injectors, paxton supercharger 9 psi of boost, msd ignition and aem computer control. what do you think about changing it over to carbs. i am just having to many problems with the fuel injected setup.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
I'm using the Edelbrock dual carb set up on my 68 Cougar, easy to install, and easy to tune so far. The only problem was fabbing up a good looking throttle rod from the firewall....
http://woodsnake4462838.tripod.com/gracecar/
http://woodsnake4462838.tripod.com/gracecar/
I'm running a repop tripower setup on my 331. Took all of two hours to tune (changing jets consumed 99% of that time) Been three years now and I've yet to touch anything as pertains to the tune of all three carbs. Perfomance? AWESOME !! These are three 250 cfm rated Holleys. Ran dual fours on my old 427. Tuning problems? NO, not from the carbs. Tuning issues are almost always an ignition problem when you think its the carbs fault. Start with new or nearly new carbs, run em with a good reliable electronic ignition and you'll have no tuning issues with multiple carbs. Also helps to use the smallest carbs too. Dual fours on a small block? Twin 390 or 450 cfm Holleys. Bigblock? Twin 450 or 600s
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