dyno numbers for Trick Flow combo

1992blkGT said:
Actually if you consider 15% drivetrain loss, then 358.99 flywheel hp is the actual number. I was always told 15% drivetrain loss is the standard for a 5 speed, that's why I said "close to 360 at the flywheel." Anyway, I was told by Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction, when I was originally considering one of his combos, that the 75mm TB are the best bang for the buck and what he recommended, so believe whatever you want. The shop I dynoed it said those are the highest numbers they've seen with that combo yet. Oh and I plan to supercharge it later anyway, just in case you still don't want to believe that the 75mm is okay for my combo.

you are absolutely right about the 15% but you take your rear wheel number, multiply by .15 and add that to your rear wheel number for your flywheel number, and i never said "it wasnt ok for your combo" I said you would make more power with a 70mm over the 75, but im not gonna argue with you on either point.
 
houstonstangguy said:
you are absolutely right about the 15% but you take your rear wheel number, multiply by .15 and add that to your rear wheel number for your flywheel number


Math doesn't work like that....You either divide rwhp by .85 or multiply Flywheel #'s by .85. Same numbers no matter how many times you go back and forth.
 
houstonstangguy said:
you are absolutely right about the 15% but you take your rear wheel number, multiply by .15 and add that to your rear wheel number for your flywheel number, and i never said "it wasnt ok for your combo" I said you would make more power with a 70mm over the 75, but im not gonna argue with you on either point.

I don't understand why you would multiply the rear wheel number by 15% and then add it to the rear wheel number. Since the power starts at the motor and travels through the drivetrain, it would make more sense to find what 15% of the flywheel horsepower is and then subtract that from the flywheel horsepower number to find the rear wheel number. Since I only have the rear wheel horsepower number, dividing it by .85 will get the flywheel horsepower number. 305.14/.85=358.99. Then subtract 15% of 358.99, which is 53.85, you get 305.14, which was the rear wheel number to begin with. I thought that was the correct way to determine flywheel horsepower :shrug: Anyway, like I mentioned earlier, I plan on getting a supercharger after an engine rebuild, so the 75mm will unarguably be the best choice in the long run.
 
2NDTIME said:
Math doesn't work like that....You either divide rwhp by .85 or multiply Flywheel #'s by .85. Same numbers no matter how many times you go back and forth.


well i guess the 3 shops that i have dyno'd my car at (and all did the calculations themselves, not me) were wrong. I didn't come up with my own numbers, they always did. lol my point is only that each of the 3 shops did it the same way but that is the first time I ever heard of doing it that way. if that is correct then i stand corrected and we are both making more power than I thought. lol (I honestly don't think so though)

and again, if you are going blown, then yes the 75 will make more power but you arent blown yet and the 75, though it will make more power, isnt currently making the most power your application would make. whether or not it was the most power the shop ever saw with that kit. that doesnt say anything about the 70/75 argument that I said I wasn't going to get into. lol

trust me, i have talked to ed not only on my coupe but also on my last gt and I trust what he says and am always the first to recommend him on a custom cam. that has nothing to do with what it is doing for you NOW though.
 
ok i just posted on my local car site and the two common feedbacks that I get are

for a standard trans car. multiply your rwhp by 1.15 . 1.2 for an auto car. this is probably the accepted standard for a dynojet, but every car is different. for your car if it is a standard it looks like 406 fwhp

and

mult. rwhp by .15 and add to rwhp.

both came up with the same numbers that the shops came up with (406 fwhp) for mine but i guess we are all wrong
 
houstonstangguy said:
and again, if you are going blown, then yes the 75 will make more power but you arent blown yet and the 75, though it will make more power, isnt currently making the most power your application would make. whether or not it was the most power the shop ever saw with that kit. that doesnt say anything about the 70/75 argument that I said I wasn't going to get into. lol

trust me, i have talked to ed not only on my coupe but also on my last gt and I trust what he says and am always the first to recommend him on a custom cam. that has nothing to do with what it is doing for you NOW though.

Unfortunately I can't afford to buy a $260 throttle body that works for my current setup to gain maybe 5hp and then replace it again a few months later to best suit a supercharger. When I talked to Ed I was going to order a N/A setup from him, I didn't even mention a supercharger and he recommended a 75mm throttle body, he said that they gained nearly a tenth in the quarter with one. Say what you will but that is what Ed told me.
 
1992blkGT said:
Unfortunately I can't afford to buy a $260 throttle body that works for my current setup to gain maybe 5hp and then replace it again a few months later to best suit a supercharger. When I talked to Ed I was going to order a N/A setup from him, I didn't even mention a supercharger and he recommended a 75mm throttle body, he said that they gained nearly a tenth in the quarter with one. Say what you will but that is what Ed told me.


ok again i say congrats on the numbers, they are very respectable whether it is the 350 i think it is or the 360 you think it is. I only mentioned about the throttle body because you said you were gonna add a blower after the engine buildup. since you just spent 2 grand on the kit I didnt think you would be able to do the build up right away much less lay down the jack for a blower. if you can in the next few months, more power to you. my only advice, which now i can see was taken more as ragging opposed to the advice, was because it seems as though it will be a substanial amount of time before the motor and the blower are in, in which case I would want the extra power and torque now, opposed to later. either way, as i said before it is your car and whatever you are happy with is cool. im not ragging on you or anything. I think I have mostly given props but its cool however you take it all.
 
Nice numbers! Really impressive torque output! :flag:

The 75mm tb is exactly what you want. It matches your intake and anything smaller is a waste of time and money.

Somehow I manage to make 367 rwhp with a 306 and a 75mm tb. Don't know how though since Stangnet says it's too big. :rlaugh:
 
houstonstangguy said:
ok i just posted on my local car site and the two common feedbacks that I get are

for a standard trans car. multiply your rwhp by 1.15 . 1.2 for an auto car. this is probably the accepted standard for a dynojet, but every car is different. for your car if it is a standard it looks like 406 fwhp

and

mult. rwhp by .15 and add to rwhp.

both came up with the same numbers that the shops came up with for mine but i guess we are all wrong

406fwhp!? Hell no!..I'll break it down further:

we all agree that we're assumming a 15% loss...right?
therefore 85%(.85) = 305
________100%(1) = ?

(1/.85)x 305 = 1.176x305 = 358.824..
same thing as dividing by .85...just a different approach.
Well that's the end of my math lesson boys..off to the shore I go, have a good weekend :D
 
86Cobra said:
Nice numbers! Really impressive torque output! :flag:

The 75mm tb is exactly what you want. It matches your intake and anything smaller is a waste of time and money.

Somehow I manage to make 367 rwhp with a 306 and a 75mm tb. Don't know how though since Stangnet says it's too big. :rlaugh:

Haha, no doubt!

Funny, my n/a 302 made 376rwhp with a 75mm also. :D



We won't mention that on another n/a combo(306), i picked up 9rwhp in going from a 70mm to a 90mm tb with no loss down low...since its waaay to big. :spot: