Dyno pricing?

prices usually vary.

ill guess somewhere between 150-160 rwhp. Good luck on getting into the 14's

What are you talking about 150-160hp??? I really hope your talking about on top of his 190 after the tune. Ill wait for ur answer before i put anything else up...

Ok well first of all genious, did i say BHP or RWHP hmm let me read... Nope i did not specify. Second its nice to see that you insult the intelligence of "Most Mustang owners" when you are the one asking the question. Whatever I am not even going to bother but just so you know most dyno's measure at the wheels and the crankshaft.

Anyway to answer your question it would vary but i know around here its $30-$50 for 3 dyno pulls plus whatever in tunning. Usually about $300 altogether.

Okay no problem. But BTW you do realize that the supercharger will have little if not a negative effect on your stang with the stock exhaust? Just wondering and trying to help. I really dont know what ur whole vision is for your stang so just let me know.

GTA_V6_Mustang said:

Okay no problem. But BTW you do realize that the supercharger will have little if not a negative effect on your stang with the stock exhaust? Just wondering and trying to help. I really dont know what ur whole vision is for your stang so just let me know.

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I'll admit with the stock exhaust and a procharger the exhaust will restrict it a bit but it sure as hell won't hurt it one bit. It's gonna help for sure.

Jesus Christ monkey balls!!!!

First off, pricing varies by area and dyno shop. I got mine done for 100$ and hour... not rated by the amount of pulls. Second, stock exhaust with a procharger! I shouldn't say anything but i'm gunna... that's a no no! When you read those adds for procharger about the mustangs running 12's and 11's with a stock motor and exhaust witha procharger.... it's cause it's a GT or a Mach, bigger engines, better exhaust, etc. etc. etc. If you're getting a procharger get it, but wait a month or so untill you can sve up the money and by a FULL cat back system, short tube headers, h-pipe, (NOT stock Y). It'll help you BUT it wount come close to makeing the numbers it can if you're gunna use the stock exhaust, headers, mid pipe, cam, etc.

Quick & easy HP

supercharger
headers (short tubes)
catback
cam www.rpm-mustangs.com 300$ at the most for a cam that'll work with your factory heads

of course you can add alot more onto it but that's just being quick and adding HP.
That's what somebody should've told you. Now, go and get'em

worked v6 said:

Jesus Christ monkey balls!!!!

First off, pricing varies by area and dyno shop. I got mine done for 100$ and hour... not rated by the amount of pulls. Second, stock exhaust with a procharger! I shouldn't say anything but i'm gunna... that's a no no! When you read those adds for procharger about the mustangs running 12's and 11's with a stock motor and exhaust witha procharger.... it's cause it's a GT or a Mach, bigger engines, better exhaust, etc. etc. etc. If you're getting a procharger get it, but wait a month or so untill you can sve up the money and by a FULL cat back system, short tube headers, h-pipe, (NOT stock Y). It'll help you BUT it wount come close to makeing the numbers it can if you're gunna use the stock exhaust, headers, mid pipe, cam, etc.

Quick & easy HP

supercharger
headers (short tubes)
catback
cam www.rpm-mustangs.com 300$ at the most for a cam that'll work with your factory heads

of course you can add alot more onto it but that's just being quick and adding HP.
That's what somebody should've told you. Now, go and get'em

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Which cam from rpm-mustangs.com would work with the factory heads? If I was to purchase that cam, do I need to buy anything else in order to get it to work with a stock engine?

mustang2k00 said:

Which cam from rpm-mustangs.com would work with the factory heads? If I was to purchase that cam, do I need to buy anything else in order to get it to work with a stock engine?

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A dyno tune would be the only other thing you would need, 'cause it'll run like crap unless you do that. http://rpm-mustangs.com/cart/product.php?productid=16137&cat=257&page=1 This cam is the one that'll work with yur stock heads. Almost any cam will aslong as it's not to agressive. Write down the specs you want on the cam and call who ever will be installing it and double check that it'll fit on the stock heads with out porting them. Call a few places so you have a few answers to work off of. Also look into a set of 1.80 non adjustable roller rockers form there too, just an added bonus for the cam and if you install them both at the same time it'll be cheaper than if you do them sepereately cause the heads will already be off for the cam

I don't know a whole lot about cams, well not much at all. All I do know is that getting a higher performance cam means more horses in the engine. Could you explain what specs there are to choose from and what is normally ordered? My stang is a daily driver but I'm always looking to get more power. If you know any good websites that explains what to look for in a cam, that would be great.

I'm also looking at the roller rockers. The only thing I don't get is what is the performance difference between a 1.8 and a 1.73?

mustang2k00 said:

I don't know a whole lot about cams, well not much at all. All I do know is that getting a higher performance cam means more horses in the engine. Could you explain what specs there are to choose from and what is normally ordered? My stang is a daily driver but I'm always looking to get more power. If you know any good websites that explains what to look for in a cam, that would be great.

I'm also looking at the roller rockers. The only thing I don't get is what is the performance difference between a 1.8 and a 1.73?

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This is gunna be alot of explaining, so i'll try to make the jist of it
*sigh*...

Lets start with the roller rockers.

1.73 - 1.80 - 1.90 - etc. Is the ratio of the roller rocker. The ratiohas to do with the different length of the "arm" of the roller rocker. The longer the arm, the more room the cam shaft will have to rotate, causeing it to have a bigger rotation and giveing you more power. 1.73 is the factory ratio for the V6 on it's roller rockers, 1.80 will be a good step-up. You can get after market roller rockers with a 1.73 ratio and they'll still be better than the factory ones because they'll be lighter & stronger so even aftermarket factory ratio roller rockers can give you some HP. 1.80 and higher roller rockers will give you better HP than factory ratio cause there arms will be longer which will let your cam shaft rotate a little more, plus there still lighter and stronger than factory ones. There's alot more to it but i'm trying to keep all of this short, if I can find agood explanation on a web site i'll PM it to you.

Heres where it gets a little more technical, camshafts

Each lobe (intake & exhaust) is listed by its duration in crank degrees at .050" (which is default/factory) lift and by its valve lift with both 1.73 and 1.8 rocker arms. For example, when you see cams listed as "215* [.576/.599]" that'll refer to a lobe with 215* duration and .576" lift with 1.73 and .599" lift with 1.8 roller rockers. (see how the 1.80 roller rockers have a bigger lift)
Lobe separation, with the durations of the intake/exhaust lobe, determine how much valve overlap you will have. Meaning a 108* LCA (lobe seperation) will be pretty good for a naturally aspirated setup with bolt-ons such as exhaust, intake, MAF, headers, simple bolt on parts. 110* is good for a more heavily modded N/A like full exhaust, and ported everything and supercharger applications. 112+* is going to be more for dedicated supercharger & turbo set-ups

What is your goal with the car? Do you want to have a supercharger in the near future or are you going to keep it N/A and use it for a daily driver?
If you plan on keeping it a daily driver with a few modds like cat-back exhaust, pulleys, cold air intake & headers this set-up should be perfect

Intake - 208* lobe duration (.545/.567) valve lift. The 1.80 is .567
Exhaust - 207* lobe duration (.505/.526) valve lift. the 1.80 is .526
with a lobe seperation of 108*

That should be a good set-up for a a light to medium modded daily driver.

I ordered one form the guy at www.rpm-mustangs.com about 4 months ago and this is the set-up I ordered

Intake - 208* (.567)
Exhaust - 209* (.556)
108* lobe seperation

i'm still waiting on it, 'cause he's a little backed up with orders and moving his bussiness and such. I already have 1.80 r'rs and it works pretty good and sounds pretty good
Also with the bigger lobes in the cam you'll have a more aggressive sound. When you hear those classic muscle cars and even the newer ones when there idleing and it has a very loud gurgleing sound, thats the cam shaft, those bigger lobes is what causes that sound... along with some other engine modds but the cam is pretty much the main reason

Thanks for all of your input.

Yes, I do plan to keep it a daily driver.

No plans for a super charger/turbo/etc..

Current performance mods are cat back exhaust, K&N CAI and xcal flashed. Thinking about adding underdrive pulleys, rocker rollers and maybe a cam.. I believe I would need it reflashed with a new cam.

Thanks for all of your info though.

mustang2k00 said:

Thanks for all of your input.

Yes, I do plan to keep it a daily driver.

No plans for a super charger/turbo/etc..

Current performance mods are cat back exhaust, K&N CAI and xcal flashed. Thinking about adding underdrive pulleys, rocker rollers and maybe a cam.. I believe I would need it reflashed with a new cam.

Thanks for all of your info though.

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Pulleys would be a good addition to the modds you already have. Roller Rockers would be good. If you get a cam you may want to go ahead and get a full dyno so they can monitor you A/F ration (Air Fule ratio) on the cumputer and adjust it accordingly.

As far as pulleys, I was suggested by a friend to get the Steeda ones. Do you agree that Steeda makes a better one than ASP?

mustang2k00 said:

As far as pulleys, I was suggested by a friend to get the Steeda ones. Do you agree that Steeda makes a better one than ASP?

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Steeda is good, but they are known to cause chargeing problems. Which means that your A/C won't work as good as it does right now, and you might have a problem with your sound system if you have an after market one. I'm not entirely sure.

www.rpmoutlet.com has a set of the for a decent price, those are what I use and I don't have any problems wiht anything. There by Motoblue, rpm outlet claims they put out 14rwhp bu that's not off a stock mustang, it's off a lightly modded, with CAI, Exhaust, headers and igniton. so look to gain around 7rwhp from what you have now. Pulleys don't actually add you HP they free it up by reduceing the pulley travle to turn the crank/waterpump/alternator etc. That's more or less how they work

Thanks for the info about Steeda's known issue (unknown to me). It's making me think twice about buying their underdrive pulleys..

mustang2k00 said:

Thanks for the info about Steeda's known issue (unknown to me). It's making me think twice about buying their underdrive pulleys..

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Welcome, ask around to people who have them, or just ask a few of the GT guys on here I bet alot of them ues them