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E303 cam surge

  • Thread starter Thread starter fox04
  • Start date Start date Jul 11, 2011

fox04

Member
Mar 6, 2011
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augusta, ga
Jul 11, 2011
#1
  • Jul 11, 2011
  • #1
My car is a 88 gt. It has alum. heads e303 cam, t5, 373s etc etc. when cruising around town between 1500-2100 the car jerks really bad like the cam is surgeing. The idle is perfect and doesnt surge at all so could it be a different problem rather than cam? Im not really sure what else to check.
 

Noobz347

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Jul 11, 2011
#2
  • Jul 11, 2011
  • #2
The cam lacks the ability to, 'surge'. This ain't no VTEC. lol


Is the e303 a recent addition?
Is your car SD or MAF?
Have you pulled codes?
 

fox04

Member
Mar 6, 2011
78
1
6
augusta, ga
Jul 11, 2011
#3
  • Jul 11, 2011
  • #3
I bought the car with the mods already done and has done it since day 1. The car is maf converted. Have not pulled any codes. the car runs great though thats the only problem ive noticed. It does run rich though.
 

jrichker

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#4
  • Jul 11, 2011
  • #4
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 3-Jun-2011. Removed the link to BATAuto.com and troublecodes.net instructions on codes and how to dump them. Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 Mustangs at this time.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
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Georgia
Jul 11, 2011
#5
  • Jul 11, 2011
  • #5
I have the same problem with my TFS Stage 1. I have no codes and engine runs very well, no surging at idle. I was told that it is the cam "trying to hit a lick"; although I agree with the above statement that this cam is not big enough to cause something like that. I have just lived with it...it only does it when I let the car pull itself. As long as I have my foot even a little bit in the throttle, it doesn't do it. I have kinda wondered if it was a drivetrain issue???? Glad you asked this question...we will see what comes up.
 

lancec2c30

Member
May 14, 2008
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16
Washington
Jul 12, 2011
#6
  • Jul 12, 2011
  • #6
I've been told that in a stick car. At very low rpms and lower speeds you will get a little bucking.

My tfs stage one does it as well.
 

jrichker

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Jul 12, 2011
#7
  • Jul 12, 2011
  • #7
You need to post a complete list of your mods.

A picture of the under hood would help as well. Get a Photobucket account (Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket, it is free) and put your pictures in it. You can use the IMG tag feature to create the text string you paste into your post to make it display the photo when your post is read.
 

fox04

Member
Mar 6, 2011
78
1
6
augusta, ga
Jul 12, 2011
#8
  • Jul 12, 2011
  • #8
The car has no codes. As for modes: canfield alum. heads, e303 cam, edelbrock intake, 70mm bbk TB, K&N intake, electric fans, 3.73s, msd ignition, sct eliminator tune, t5. Im not sure wat else it could be beside cam related.
 

jrichker

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In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
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Jul 12, 2011
#9
  • Jul 12, 2011
  • #9
No code 11 (two flashes when the computer dumps the codes)? The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.
 
M

Mike in Texas

New Member
Nov 7, 2005
121
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0
Jul 13, 2011
#10
  • Jul 13, 2011
  • #10
e303

yep so does mine otherwise runs great.
 

fox04

Member
Mar 6, 2011
78
1
6
augusta, ga
Jul 13, 2011
#11
  • Jul 13, 2011
  • #11
Checked again. I have a laptop tht plugs in to the diagnostic port under the hood. It ran 3 test and nothing came up or any codes. So im still leaning towards the cam causing it even though its not tht big.
 
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