Is it similar to removing the ECU and harness on a 5.0?? I've got an 89 LX 4 cyl I'm swapping to a carb'd 302 and I want to remove the ECU and harness. Andone have a link to a how to???
The ECU is located in the passenger side kick panel, just like the 5.0 models. Engine harness has the same routing as well. You'll likely be able to do a search over in 5.0 tech or talk and get a good how to on removing them.
---Here's a link that I found when I first bought our 2.3 LX. Some things might help you or give ideas while you're swapping this & that. Glad to see that you're considering the 2.3 body for the swap. As mentioned in the article, chances of a straight body w/the 2.3 are higher. One thing it doesn't mention, is that the subframe on the convertible is double reinforced. So, if you see a conv at the local pull-a-part:
============================
FRAME - SUB (BARE)... $65.35
w/warranty... $10.48
core... N/A
--------------------------------------------
FRAME - SUB W/SUSPENSION... $130.69
w/warranty... $20.97
core... $10.15
============================
---I couldn't agree more with the carbureted idea, as I feel FI is over-rated and just another way for the AAI to ensure that newer vehicles sell, as well as ensure the expensive parts that keep those vehicles running. Sort of like the "asbestos in brake pad" scandal that ensued in 1986/87. It was found that asbestos caused illness and killed so many people, so the court rules that asbestos be removed from brake pads/shoes. Then court overturned their ruling months later... BTW, not many people hard this part... because it would "put a lot of brake parts companies out of business". I am glad my class in Auto 101 was taught to treat all brakes as if they were contaminated with asbestos, because they could have old pads/shoes on them as well as asbestos dust.
---Anyway, I love Holley 2300s on anything that requires less than 650cfm. I drive Internationals, I'd fill my yard with IHs Fords & MOPARS (even AMCs) if I won the lottery. Hell with the neighbors, I would put up a cover my entire yard w/a patio as well as fence in the area w/a 6' security fence. What they can't see can't hurt `em.
---I yielded 20-25mpg (if you can call it city) in N.MI on US-31 w/a 640# 304 4-speed (T19) in a 5k# truck w/heavy d44s, 29" tires & 3.73 gearing (IIRC)... with a flat* front end (as well as windshield). 30mpg on the highway running from MI to AL at speeds often surpassing 60mph (w/that front end) and people with Holley Projection as well as MegaSquirt couldn't get more than 18. FWIW, my truck was nearing 300k miles and was shut down after 565k miles w/head gasket issues. Pistons and all were fine, so it wasn't running lean at all (picked up a "sniffer" now ). AFAIC, there isn't much more can be done than I have done, with exception to reading this . All you have to remember is the simple equation:
-MAXRPM (for long durations) x CID / 3456.
If your 302 will be running 100 miles, non-stop, what RMP will you be sitting into at cruising speed?
CID for stock is 302
3456... I don't know, that's just what's always been used.
-So,
4000 x 302 / 3456 = 349... 350cfm is Prrrrrfect
5000 x 302 / 3456 = 437... 450cfm will do fine
6000 x 302 / 3456 = 524... 550cfm " ... ", or keep it below 5700 and run a 500cfm.
7000 x 302 / 3456 = 611 ... 650 is overkill, I would suggest keeping it below 6800 with a 600cfm.
---Understanding that is what will get your gears running with dual carb setup if you so wished to run a couple small webbers... heh heh heh. One carb as a primary and the other as a secondary. Run all day long on 2v, say when under 3400RPMs, and when you put your foot under the hood, the secondary carb will open.
---Contrary to popular belief, 2v carburetors are not restrictive, if that were the case, they wouldn't do so well in circle track or CART. Once you get to needing* more than 400cfm/450cfm (depending on size of engine compartment), I would suggest cold air intake and beyond that, removal of the choke horn.
The ECU is located in the passenger side kick panel, just like the 5.0 models. Engine harness has the same routing as well. You'll likely be able to do a search over in 5.0 tech or talk and get a good how to on removing them.
---Here's a link that I found when I first bought our 2.3 LX. Some things might help you or give ideas while you're swapping this & that. Glad to see that you're considering the 2.3 body for the swap. As mentioned in the article, chances of a straight body w/the 2.3 are higher. One thing it doesn't mention, is that the subframe on the convertible is double reinforced. So, if you see a conv at the local pull-a-part:
============================
FRAME - SUB (BARE)... $65.35
w/warranty... $10.48
core... N/A
--------------------------------------------
FRAME - SUB W/SUSPENSION... $130.69
w/warranty... $20.97
core... $10.15
============================
---I couldn't agree more with the carbureted idea, as I feel FI is over-rated and just another way for the AAI to ensure that newer vehicles sell, as well as ensure the expensive parts that keep those vehicles running. Sort of like the "asbestos in brake pad" scandal that ensued in 1986/87. It was found that asbestos caused illness and killed so many people, so the court rules that asbestos be removed from brake pads/shoes. Then court overturned their ruling months later... BTW, not many people hard this part... because it would "put a lot of brake parts companies out of business". I am glad my class in Auto 101 was taught to treat all brakes as if they were contaminated with asbestos, because they could have old pads/shoes on them as well as asbestos dust.
---Anyway, I love Holley 2300s on anything that requires less than 650cfm. I drive Internationals, I'd fill my yard with IHs Fords & MOPARS (even AMCs) if I won the lottery. Hell with the neighbors, I would put up a cover my entire yard w/a patio as well as fence in the area w/a 6' security fence. What they can't see can't hurt `em.
---I yielded 20-25mpg (if you can call it city) in N.MI on US-31 w/a 640# 304 4-speed (T19) in a 5k# truck w/heavy d44s, 29" tires & 3.73 gearing (IIRC)... with a flat* front end (as well as windshield). 30mpg on the highway running from MI to AL at speeds often surpassing 60mph (w/that front end) and people with Holley Projection as well as MegaSquirt couldn't get more than 18. FWIW, my truck was nearing 300k miles and was shut down after 565k miles w/head gasket issues. Pistons and all were fine, so it wasn't running lean at all (picked up a "sniffer" now ). AFAIC, there isn't much more can be done than I have done, with exception to reading this . All you have to remember is the simple equation:
-MAXRPM (for long durations) x CID / 3456.
If your 302 will be running 100 miles, non-stop, what RMP will you be sitting into at cruising speed?
CID for stock is 302
3456... I don't know, that's just what's always been used.
-So,
4000 x 302 / 3456 = 349... 350cfm is Prrrrrfect
5000 x 302 / 3456 = 437... 450cfm will do fine
6000 x 302 / 3456 = 524... 550cfm " ... ", or keep it below 5700 and run a 500cfm.
7000 x 302 / 3456 = 611 ... 650 is overkill, I would suggest keeping it below 6800 with a 600cfm.
---Understanding that is what will get your gears running with dual carb setup if you so wished to run a couple small webbers... heh heh heh. One carb as a primary and the other as a secondary. Run all day long on 2v, say when under 3400RPMs, and when you put your foot under the hood, the secondary carb will open.
---Contrary to popular belief, 2v carburetors are not restrictive, if that were the case, they wouldn't do so well in circle track or CART. Once you get to needing* more than 400cfm/450cfm (depending on size of engine compartment), I would suggest cold air intake and beyond that, removal of the choke horn.