Eec Question

That is not the correct maf for that eec. I would start by purchasing the correct maf.

What's your engine combo? Honestly it may be easier to swap back to 19s and use a stock maf or a 94-5 maf just to get everything running correctly.

That's a 19lb combo. Only eec that will work correctly without a tune is the 93 cobra unit and it needs its matching maf. The mk8 maf will NOT function correctly without tuning. Period.
Find and a9 and the above mentioned meter with some 19lb injectors.

80mm seems big but anyways the correct maf is key here.

Pro M is a good brand for Maf. C & L is meh for some. LMR carries them

I would buy the maf calibrated to the stock EEC A9L for the injector size you choose to stick with. No worries from there.

Just curious though, have you thrown any codes?

Usually if you had the right size injectors to the EEC.
A quick test of the maf is just to unplug it and if your car ran better in closed loop, than the maf was more than likely bad. Also you could inspect the thermistor and look for arching or damage.

However, since technically you have the mismatched EEC to injectors and even a mismatched maf. This will more than likely confuse you or cause an intermittent false positive and or negative.

Hence why I asked about codes.

Is the computer chipped by chance or did someone figure out how to trick a EEC with the Lincoln maf for 24lbs....maybe but unlikely.

Do you know what year Lincoln it came off of?

what else is done to the engine setup? 24# injectors are very likely not needed

stykthyn has it right; match computer to MAF and injectors and see how it runs.

If you still have problems after that, dump the codes.

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.

Save yourself a ton of money and find a jy maf from a 94/5 gt. It's larger than a Fox unit at 75mm, is plug and play and should cost less than 50 dollars. While you are there source some 19lb injectors. Next stop is your local part store. They can order a reman ecu for what you will usually pay on the classified and it will have a warranty. Pick up some o-rings and caps for your injectors as well as some do-electric grease.

The second biggest piece of advice, do not for any reason put a filter cone on the end of the maf and.call it a day. This absolutely will cause poor idle conditions.