EGR Code 31...Where do I start?

onebad7up

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Jun 21, 2004
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Nashville
I have been trying to figure out why my car has been bucking lately. It is an AOD and after it shifts into the next gear and if I have my foot on the gas a little the car will buck. I have been told it is the MAF, TPS and EGR. I bought a code reader last week and I ran the codes today. Whenever I read codes when the car is not running I get code 31 (Cannister or EGR valve control system signal out of spec or EVP voltage low). Is this common?
 
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CODE: 31 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage. Vref (5 volt reference voltage supplied by the computer) missing or broken wire or bad connection in circuit. Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or MAP sensor located on the firewall near the center of the car. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.
With the sensor removed from the EGR and still connected, press the plunger and watch the voltage change on the brown/lt green wire. Pull the passenger side kick panel and measure the voltage at the computer. You will need to remove the plastic cover over the wires and probe them from the backside. A safety pin may prove very useful for this task. Use pin 27, EVR input (brown/lt green wire) and pin 46, signal ground (black/white wire) to measure the voltage. The orange/white wire is Vref and should always be 5 volts -/+ .25 volt. Be sure to measure Vref at the EGR sensor to rule out any broken wires or bad connections.
 
I have 4.98 volts at the TPS but I am not sure where the MAP sensor is. Is that the same as the baro sensor? If so, I do not see a orange/white wire. I am going to go and check the egr connector right now. If I dont see anything here I will go to the computer next.

Thanks for the help so far.
 
I took a few pics of my firewall. I cannot see where the MAP sensor would be.

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Also, took the connector off the EGR but I do not see how to operate the plunger. Do I need to take the entire sensor connection off (three nuts holding it on)?

Yes. Remove the 3 nut and you will be able to remove the sensor and see the plunger.
That's what you push on.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
 

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I had the same code and cleaned the needle on the EVP with carb cleaner and a toothbrush and havent had a code since. That was atleast 800 miles ago (I dont drive the car alot so the miles dont go up alot).
 
Well I just checked the MAP, EVP and TPS voltages. They all had the correct 5 volts on the orand/white wire. I also did the plunger test on the EVP. The MAP is new. The one thing I did notice was that the TPS voltage from the green was not set properly. I filed the holes down and set it at .985. I am hoping this was the problem. Could this fix it?
 
I have been driving the car and it has been a lot better. I would like to completely get rid of the bucking though.

What happens to a bad TPS?

It seems like everytie I check it I get different readings. Should I just buy a new one?
 
The computer should zero out the TPS continuously - either the TPS zeroes out or it pops a code. I would not sweat a slightly changing TPS reading unless you have reason to believe it's caused by bad wiring or it changes drastically.

Good luck.