EGR Control

[glowstang93]

This week, out of the blue, my 2.3 started idling very rough, and the brake pedal decreased significantly. After talking to my friend/mechanic we decided it had to have a vacuum leak. His shop found that the EGR control was bad. Part was $50, haven't got bill for labor yet, but shouldn't be more than 1-2 hrs for diagnosis and replacement. When I got it home I replaced the two plastic vacuum lines that plugged into it because they were brittle.

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The part was only used between 92 and 93 and was only available from Ford.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Or someone like me that tons of crap like that around? Kinda the reason i'm not taking all the 95 stuff to the junk yard. Damn that thing looks cleaner then my dishes at home! peace





john

 

[stykthyn]

no ****, I couldnt dream of keeping my engine that clean, heck it's hard enough to keep the dust off my dash.

 

[glowstang93]

Thanks guys, believe it or not, I still get my hands dirty working on it

I saw in a post by Jrichker that the part is actually an EVR. He had a very good description of how the computer signals it to let the vacuum through it to the EGR valve.

 

[glowstang93]

Finally got my bill and paid it for the diagnosis and replacement of the EVR. It was $123, with gives them bout 1 1/2 hrs worth of labor. I can live with that.

 

[stykthyn]

does it run better than it did before?

 

[glowstang93]

Yea, When I took it to the shop it was shaking vigorously when idling and stopped at stop lights. The new control was the problem. I have reset the idle screw adjustment and will have to see if it will need readjusted still. The problem now is that to adjust the idle, the car has to be at operating temperature. I live in a small town and don't drive too far at one time. So it is going to take a short trip or something to know for sure if I got it right on the adjustment.

 

[glowstang93]

Well, the car is doing it again. Rpms dropped to less than 1000 while going 55, no power, wanting to die when coming to a stop. I'm assuming its the EVR again, but I guess it could be the EGR valve. Anyone have a clue how to test for each one?

 

[glowstang93]

I used a jumper wire and show its a code 223, the only code in memory.

What do you guys think, start with the ICM?

 

[stykthyn]

I am not convinced there isnt a loose or broken vacuum line

 

[glowstang93]

Even with a code 223, you think its a loose vacuum line? I didn't experience any loss of brake pedal like last time with the evr. So I'm still leaning toward maybe a coil pack first.

 

[glowstang93]

After pulling the code 223, I disconnected one coil pack, one at a time while the engine was running. The front coil pack when unplugged made the engine stumble, so it appeared to be "good". The rear coil pack when unplugged made no difference when unplugged, so it appeared to be "bad" (not working).

Went to O'Reilly's got a free replacement, lifetime warranty. Started the engine, then plugged in the rear coil pack. Didn't see the engine roar to life, but it is not doing what it was doing when it dogged out on me. At idle when in gear it idles smoothly now, and the tach is showing correct rpms now. Power is back and all appears to be fine.

Could someone help me in how to clear the 223 code in computer so it will be reset for the next code if there is one.
Is it as simple as disconnecting the negative battery cable for 5 minutes?

Thanks in advance

 

[stykthyn]

glad you found the issue.I have been fighting vaccum leaks on mine since I got it. they have caused me no end of gremlins and pop some crazy codes.

disconnecting the neg batt cable will clear your codes.