egr tad tab

The TAB & TAD codes will not trip the CEL.

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82 and 44 & 94

Edit: You will still get 44 & 94 codes because the computer looks for a change in the amount of oxygen by checking the O2 sensors when the solenoids are actuated. Actuating the solenoids provides more oxygen in the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor output. No change and you get the 44 & 94 codes.

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

OHMITE | 43F82RE | Resistors | Passives | Newark.com
If the link fails do a search using the part number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.
Or use the following part number if the first part number isn't available:
OHMITE | 23J82RE | Resistors | Passives | Newark.com
Newark P/N 64K8241
Ohmite part #23J82RE

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.


18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.


Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.


It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.



Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.



Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.

Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage. Do Quality Work!

This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles. It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.

Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles.

I know that everyone has different opinions about this, but here's my 2 cents - do NOT remove the EGR or you're in for a world of issues. The EGR system does not function at full throttle and therefore does not hurt power.

If you remove it, even if you put the resistors to fool the computer, you very likely can have driveability issues - I did. I would get mild to heavy detonation during throttle tip in and part throttle conditions (crusing down the interstate, idle, etc.). From my understanding this occurs as the computer leans out the fuel mixture as it expects there to be less oxygen in the cylinder to burn the gas.

It is ugly, it does dirty up your intake, but it does not kill power and can give you a ton of headaches.

The only situation that where I would ever remove the EGR system is if I was getting a custom tune of my computer to turn off the EGR system completely with the tune.

phutch11 said:

I know that everyone has different opinions about this, but here's my 2 cents - do NOT remove the EGR or you're in for a world of issues. The EGR system does not function at full throttle and therefore does not hurt power.

If you remove it, even if you put the resistors to fool the computer, you very likely can have driveability issues - I did. I would get mild to heavy detonation during throttle tip in and part throttle conditions (crusing down the interstate, idle, etc.). From my understanding this occurs as the computer leans out the fuel mixture as it expects there to be less oxygen in the cylinder to burn the gas.

It is ugly, it does dirty up your intake, but it does not kill power and can give you a ton of headaches.

The only situation that where I would ever remove the EGR system is if I was getting a custom tune of my computer to turn off the EGR system completely with the tune.

Click to expand...

You don't need to program something into the EEC logic it does on its own. As soon as an EGR related failure code is logged, the EEC deletes/bypasses the EGR function automatically, that is the Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) strategy the system follows when such type of failures occur. A/F and spark advance are not affected, since the EEC adds a spark adder based on a functions from the EVP readings, the system simply does not use the EGR spark adder. Driveability and performance shouldn't be affected, unless there is something else amiss.



IOW.... having an EGR failure code logged is the equivalent to having the calibrator PFEHP set to 2 (= disable EGR) by a tune.