Egr Valve - To Delete Or Not To Delete

TrentMO

Member
Jul 1, 2015
13
1
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Joplin, MO
Hey guys I've just started on my 2000 Mustang GT after owning it for nearly a year (newborn came first) and have run into a sticky situation. The previous owner has installed long tubes and an H-pipe and capped off the EGR tube on the EGR valve itself. I can't tell from the top side if there is a spot on the headers for the tube to attach until tomorrow (my jack won't fit under the car, waiting for a friend to bring one by). From some simple searching I have come to the conclusion that you have to tune the car to compensate for an EGR delete (let me know if this is true or false, please).

Would it be easier for me to get the tubing routed to the headers or should I look into deleting the EGR? Thanks in advance.
 
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To my knowledge the egr helps to keep combustion chamber temps down. If everything else is hooked up and plugged in I'd reconnect it to the exhaust.
 
EGR is only good for a few increased MPG's, otherwise its useless. If the car originally had the EGR deleted than its a safe bet that the EGR port on the drivers-side header is capped. You will DEFINITELY notice if whether an EGR-delete has been tuned. If not, the car will feel like a stock Honda Civic
 
EGR is only good for a few increased MPG's, otherwise its useless. If the car originally had the EGR deleted than its a safe bet that the EGR port on the drivers-side header is capped. You will DEFINITELY notice if whether an EGR-delete has been tuned. If not, the car will feel like a stock Honda Civic


Hey nightfire quick question. Once I get my tuner will I'll be able to make these changes myself? Like deleting rear o2 sensors and EGR? Or do I have to take it to a shop?
 
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@Loose nut You will need a tune shop to do it for you. That cost a pretty penny! I'd reconnect it if I were you unless your have lots of mods and some free money laying around to spend on a good tune. If your close to stock or have light mods, cold air intake, catback , headers its not worth paying to have it tuned.
 
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@Loose nut You will need a tune shop to do it for you. That cost a pretty penny! I'd reconnect it if I were you unless your have lots of mods and some free money laying around to spend on a good tune. If your close to stock or have light mods, cold air intake, catback , headers its not worth paying to have it tuned.
Thanks so much for the info. I also have a few other questions for you if you don't mind. I had water running down into my spark plug sockets and I assumed that I had a cracked intake manifold. So I removed it and I'm going to replace it with the full performance intake manifold. Turns out the old manifold was not cracked the previous owner either used cheap gaskets or torqued it down too tight. The plastic part of the gaskets we're level with a silicone part so I had water leaking from the front water jackets and where is running back and filling up my spark plug sockets on way to the back of the engine. Now if it was leaking water shouldn't there also had been a vacuum leak there as well? And just how much power do you think was lost because of this vacuum leak? I was also thinking of replacing my throttle body and plenum as well because my old plenum was gunked up with all kinds of buildup from the EGR. Which throttle body and plenum would you suggest for my car. It's a 96 Mustang GT the only thing I have on it now is Cat-Back exhaust and cold-air intake and of course my new full performance intake manifold. I really don't have a lot of money to drop into the car but I had saved up enough to replace these parts. Is there anything else that you think I should do while I have it apart. I replace the water pump all ready about 500 miles ago
 
@Loose nut The amount of air being sucked in from the vacuum leak would not be enough to cause a big horsepower loss. Your talking a couple miles per gallon at best or a few horsepower at most. Without me seeing the issue I'm only shooting in the dark based off what you gave me. I would go with a ford performance intake for your mustang. All a plenum does is increase the size of the bore for example a smaller diameter hole 2 inch compared to a 4inch hole will move more air through the bigger hole. The less restriction and more air your intake system can take in and compress the bigger spark event you have which means more horsepower. A throttle body, intake and plenum will give you a small but noticeable increase in horsepower. I can't speak much about brands but know they all do practically the same thing which is increase diameter allowing more air to flow easier through-out the motor. Don't get caught up on which brand is better unless your comparing superchargers or turbocharger systems. Some intakes are designed to flow air better than others but the difference is so small that it wont be noticeable.
 
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@Loose nut The amount of air being sucked in from the vacuum leak would not be enough to cause a big horsepower loss. Your talking a couple miles per gallon at best or a few horsepower at most. Without me seeing the issue I'm only shooting in the dark based off what you gave me. I would go with a ford performance intake for your mustang. All a plenum does is increase the size of the bore for example a smaller diameter hole 2 inch compared to a 4inch hole will move more air through the bigger hole. The less restriction and more air your intake system can take in and compress the bigger spark event you have which means more horsepower. A throttle body, intake and plenum will give you a small but noticeable increase in horsepower. I can't speak much about brands but know they all do practically the same thing which is increase diameter allowing more air to flow easier through-out the motor. Don't get caught up on which brand is better unless your comparing superchargers or turbocharger systems. Some intakes are designed to flow air better than others but the difference is so small that it wont be noticeable.
Thank you so much for your input. But I have another question concerning this. During the process of me breaking down my car I also noticed my injectors are actually under factory specs. According to late model Restorations website there should have been 19 lb injectors in my car. I ran the part number [280 150 943] on the injectors that are actually in my car and it said 18.25 lb but with 43 PSI. I don't know if that's supposed to make the difference or not but am I going to run into an issue with this extra air flow and 18 lb injectors?
 
Your 18lb injectors will do fine even with moderate upgrades. The idea is to stay below 80% duty cycle with your current injectors. When you start upping the horsepower or more air required to ignite, then bigger injectors are needed to keep up with the higher air flows. If your going to run headers, plenum and intake, cold air intake, and a bigger throttle body moving to 24lb injectors is not a bad idea. If you replace the injectors stay with ford performance only and keep the stock ignition wires. The stock ignition wires are good up to 800 hp and perform better than most aftermarket ones. That was told to me by a professional tune shop who races vehicles for a living other than making cash tuning cars on the side. The link below is a good reference point for injector sizing based on horsepower. If you did all the mods I suggested in the underlined part your looking at around 300 base horsepower NOT RWH.

http://mustangpartstech.com/FuelInjectorMath.html
 
Your 18lb injectors will do fine even with moderate upgrades. The idea is to stay below 80% duty cycle with your current injectors. When you start upping the horsepower or more air required to ignite, then bigger injectors are needed to keep up with the higher air flows. If your going to run headers, plenum and intake, cold air intake, and a bigger throttle body moving to 24lb injectors is not a bad idea. If you replace the injectors stay with ford performance only and keep the stock ignition wires. The stock ignition wires are good up to 800 hp and perform better than most aftermarket ones. That was told to me by a professional tune shop who races vehicles for a living other than making cash tuning cars on the side. The link below is a good reference point for injector sizing based on horsepower. If you did all the mods I suggested in the underlined part your looking at around 300 base horsepower NOT RWH.

http://mustangpartstech.com/FuelInjectorMath.htm
Do I have to get a tune after going from an 18 to a 24 lb injector or will it be fine?
 
Hey guys I've just started on my 2000 Mustang GT after owning it for nearly a year (newborn came first) and have run into a sticky situation. The previous owner has installed long tubes and an H-pipe and capped off the EGR tube on the EGR valve itself. I can't tell from the top side if there is a spot on the headers for the tube to attach until tomorrow (my jack won't fit under the car, waiting for a friend to bring one by). From some simple searching I have come to the conclusion that you have to tune the car to compensate for an EGR delete (let me know if this is true or false, please).

Would it be easier for me to get the tubing routed to the headers or should I look into deleting the EGR? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I have a 2001 SVT COBRA. When I put long tubes I deleted my EGR also. I was in the same boat as you. So I have done a :poo: ton of research also. I came upon so many different answers, the EGR only comes on when cruising/staying at same speeds/rpm for a certain period of time, EGR delete will make you lose about 2MPG, EGR delete will probably throw a EGR+O2 Sensor code(For me I had a o2 lean code), I have heard EGR delete can help reduce carbon buildup, I have heard EGR delete can cause detonation which I think is bull:poo:. I personally would say, go take it to a tuner have them turn it off. Or go through the horrible experience of putting a EGR back on Long Tubes.
 
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@SVT_Yossii Detonation with an egr delete is nonsense. Deleting it would not cause the airflow and mixture of the gas and timing to be thrown off. Somebody doesn't know much about cars. Now reducing carbon build makes sense. The egr recirculates the mixture to help re-use unspent air and gas molucules which helps gas milage and keeping carbon deposits down.