Egr?

EGR recirculates exhaust gases (inert, non-combustible) back into the intake tract under certain conditions to reduce combustion temperature which reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen (NOx), a pollutant. EGR is disabled completely at idle and at WOT, instead being fed in during part-throttle operation when spark advance is near the maximum.

Because EGR is disabled during WOT, you won't get any more power by disabling or removing it.

Indeed, because EGR tends to reduce peak chamber temperatures, by removing it you might just make the engine more prone to detonate under transient throttle conditions (so called "tip in spark knock".)

Just leave it be.
 
trinity_gt said:
EGR recirculates exhaust gases (inert, non-combustible) back into the intake tract under certain conditions to reduce combustion temperature which reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen (NOx), a pollutant. EGR is disabled completely at idle and at WOT, instead being fed in during part-throttle operation when spark advance is near the maximum.

Because EGR is disabled during WOT, you won't get any more power by disabling or removing it.

Indeed, because EGR tends to reduce peak chamber temperatures, by removing it you might just make the engine more prone to detonate under transient throttle conditions (so called "tip in spark knock".)

Just leave it be.
nice write up! :nice:
 
MGSTANG said:
So, why can you remove with the SCT flasher? What's the point
The EGR sets off your MIL light every time a spec of carbon builds up in it. I'd say the programmer just makes it so it doesn't set off the MIL over stupid things like that, kind of like an MIL eliminator. Just a thought :shrug:
 
One more time, Emissions in not a HP killer like prior 80 rides.

To take this crap off, you have to run a stand alone computer (Like FAST)

On your car, heads, cams and Intake manafold is the biggest killers........
 
well here is my problem, i bought a UPR intake spacer and when i put it on i cant get the EGR piece of the Plenum to bolt back on after the spacer is on. Its like the metal tube is to stiff. anyone have any ideas to put it on?
 
um, i wouldnt run a spacer. send the spacer back and get a plenum. also you have to have your EGR hooked up and working to pass CA emissions. they will check its function through a scan tool, and if you have it disabled that will be an immediate fail.
 
bdcardinal said:
um, i wouldnt run a spacer. send the spacer back and get a plenum. also you have to have your EGR hooked up and working to pass CA emissions. they will check its function through a scan tool, and if you have it disabled that will be an immediate fail.

i will always love your emission passing Info.
 
Good looking out, although i disagree with most of this thread, if you have strict emmisions laws, like CA. leave it on!!!

Cavallo - "To take this crap off, you have to run a stand alone computer (Like FAST)"

Total bull*****, I and many other people have removed ours with no loss in power or any other adverse effects, and the benifit of less bucking when the you go from WOT to part throttle back to WOT again quickly, and a much cleaner engine bay. I've had mine off for over a year, I have never missed it.

I could even direct you to a guy that sells the EGR delete kit for really cap with a manifold cap and block off plate, but again, if you live in a strict emmisions area, keep it!.
 
If anyone has ever seen the inside of an intake you'd hate EGR as much as I do.

Over the miles of driving the car, EGR leaves a nice buildup of carbon all over every internal surface. This helps restrict the intake tract and ports of the heads.

Not only that, but the EGR valve and piping is incredibly ugly.

Disabling it in the computer requires a tune, or handheld. Once this is done a 50 cent block-off plate and a 25 cent pipe plug seal the deal. The car will make more part throttle power.
Also, many cars on decel feel a "bump" or stumble at 1500rpm as the EGR goes off. Removing EGR also gets rid off this for a smoother street driving experience.

There's also a 3# weight savings if you're anal about that too.
 
StangPro said:
If anyone has ever seen the inside of an intake you'd hate EGR as much as I do.

Over the miles of driving the car, EGR leaves a nice buildup of carbon all over every internal surface. This helps restrict the intake tract and ports of the heads.

Not only that, but the EGR valve and piping is incredibly ugly.

Disabling it in the computer requires a tune, or handheld. Once this is done a 50 cent block-off plate and a 25 cent pipe plug seal the deal. The car will make more part throttle power.
Also, many cars on decel feel a "bump" or stumble at 1500rpm as the EGR goes off. Removing EGR also gets rid off this for a smoother street driving experience.

There's also a 3# weight savings if you're anal about that too.

I agree with everything said here and by Joel. In the GP community, the EGR is removed without a problem just by removing the code from the PCM, and taking the EGR valve off and blocking it off. I dont know about the Mustang community (still learning), but we also have a few companys that make EGR simulators for those that do not have access to programmers to remove the code.

All it does is recycle unburned gas for emissions purposes.

Also, whats up?? New here. Hoping to learn quite a bit about the modular Mustang. Ive tinkered with the pushrod engine GP, now I wanna try an OHC engine.
 
SRT Handz said:
well here is my problem, i bought a UPR intake spacer and when i put it on i cant get the EGR piece of the Plenum to bolt back on after the spacer is on. Its like the metal tube is to stiff. anyone have any ideas to put it on?

well how am i supposed to bent the pipe to attach to the plenum once it is raised?
 
9646gt said:
This is actually a really good thread for people who dont have emmissions testing to worry about and they want some easy mods ..I may look at doing this as well...looks like I need a hand held badly huh..


not really, i just drive around with the check engine light on, if you know much about cars, you will know something is wrong before you need an idiot light to tell you.
 
Joel's98GT said:
not really, i just drive around with the check engine light on, if you know much about cars, you will know something is wrong before you need an idiot light to tell you.

Doing this will cause you to most likely run lean under most normal driving conditions. You need to remove EGR from the computer cal not just turn off the light.
 
StangPro said:
Doing this will cause you to most likely run lean under most normal driving conditions. You need to remove EGR from the computer cal not just turn off the light.

i've put 30,000 miles on it like this, And of course it is a little leaner, there is more air going into the engine instead of exhaust gas. No big deal, as long as thier is no detonation, these cars come pig rich from the factory. If you are saying that the computer is making it lean because of the code, that is false. The egr codes are not tied to engine operation in terms of effecting fuel and spark timing, and if they were the adaptive computer is made to Richen fuel and retard timing in case of a problem to protect the motor not lean it out.