Jinx102672,
I just checked my rear axle placement with a plumb bob. It sits 1/2 inches toward the right. I believe this would account for the car wanting to sit lower on the drivers side.
When I played with the isolators, I could see an indentation in them where the spring use to sit. I took advantage of this when re-situating the springs. If I used new isolators, I think that the drivers side would have sat lower than the passenger side.
From this forum, I believe that a panhard bar would be necessary to center the axle. This should result in a level rear end.
I just checked my rear axle placement with a plumb bob. It sits 1/2 inches toward the right. I believe this would account for the car wanting to sit lower on the drivers side.
When I played with the isolators, I could see an indentation in them where the spring use to sit. I took advantage of this when re-situating the springs. If I used new isolators, I think that the drivers side would have sat lower than the passenger side.
From this forum, I believe that a panhard bar would be necessary to center the axle. This should result in a level rear end.
For the life of me, I cannot understand why all you fight this very simple install.
All that is needed is to disconnect the lower ball joint from the strut, and lower the lower control arm,(after you loosen the control arm mount bolts at the "K" member) no removing brake calipers,lines,sensors etc. the spring falls out. The new spring(for the front ) is the short one not the tall one. As allways new springs will take up to 4-5 days to "settle" do not pannic if your drop is not what you expected at first. Most people do not tell you this, mostly because they do not know. By the way the install of the new spring is very easy due to the fact it is quite shorter than the orig. The fronts are easier than the rear, (no sway bar)
To clear up any misunderstanding, yes their is a jack under the spring perch of the contol arm (with the handle pointing, or under the opsite ball joint to allow for the swing of the arm.
This brings up the question of when to tighten the lower control arm mount bolts ? not until the weight of the car is on the tires. same goes for the rear control arms. I have done this for over forty years, works every time!
John Stommel
All that is needed is to disconnect the lower ball joint from the strut, and lower the lower control arm,(after you loosen the control arm mount bolts at the "K" member) no removing brake calipers,lines,sensors etc. the spring falls out. The new spring(for the front ) is the short one not the tall one. As allways new springs will take up to 4-5 days to "settle" do not pannic if your drop is not what you expected at first. Most people do not tell you this, mostly because they do not know. By the way the install of the new spring is very easy due to the fact it is quite shorter than the orig. The fronts are easier than the rear, (no sway bar)
To clear up any misunderstanding, yes their is a jack under the spring perch of the contol arm (with the handle pointing, or under the opsite ball joint to allow for the swing of the arm.
This brings up the question of when to tighten the lower control arm mount bolts ? not until the weight of the car is on the tires. same goes for the rear control arms. I have done this for over forty years, works every time!
John Stommel