Electric Fan with Toggle Switch

[STANGNUM]

Hey guys how's it going. Got a problem with my 93 5.0. The guy I bought from had an electric fan conversion done. It was wired with a toggle on/off switch. Well it stopped working so I've been going through his multi colored wiring scheme he made. It sucks.
Well anyway he had it getting some juice from the orange wire coming from the fan controller relay. I was wondering whats the simplest way to get this to work. I ran new wiring from inside coming from the switch (red/black). Now I got it wired with a inline fuse. Problem is when the switch is on it runs fine. When I turn it off the fan slows down , but still runs a little. I noticed the switch starts getting hot, so I have to disconnect the battery cable. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to tap into a different source? I also tried running it from the fan controller relay, but it does the same thing. The fan is almost off but still running. Any help would be great thanks.

 

[jrichker]

No wiring schematic - no help. It is impossible to tell what has been done and how it is wired without one.

To start from the beginning, or some clues on how your current fan wiring may be done, see http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.shtml

 

[STANGNUM]

From the looks of it, it was getting power from the fan controller relay behind the driver side headlight. Thats what it was tied into before. I disconnected that and was just running from the battery with inline fuse to test the switch out. Problem is it won't cutoff completely, runs low speed and starts heating the toggle switch up.

Ok thanks I will give that link a shot.

 

[HISSIN50]

Your switch might be getting feedback when the fan powers off (turning into a generator of sorts). The voltage spike can get pretty high.

I'd sort it out with a quality controller or at a min, get a relay functional.

Good luck.

 

[ponyboy19]

I'd start over. I would get a 75 amp relay to control the juice and instead of a toggle, I'd wire in to an ignition fuse so the relay is activated with the ignition key.

Or better yet get a DCC controller. http://www.dccontrol.com/

 

[green]

if you still want to use the toggle switch in the car do this. hook one wire on to the toggle switch and put it on the positive battery terminal(live at all times) next put another wire on the other connector on the toggle switch and run that to one of the live wire on the fan, take the other wire on the fan and ground it to something made of steel, that should work excellent.

 

[DMAN302]

...not ideal, I'd want a relay in place, but it's your car.

 

[ponyboy19]

if you still want to use the toggle switch in the car do this. hook one wire on to the toggle switch and put it on the positive battery terminal(live at all times) next put another wire on the other connector on the toggle switch and run that to one of the live wire on the fan, take the other wire on the fan and ground it to something made of steel, that should work excellent.

Don't do this. You need a relay in the middle of the toggle switch. The toggle should only be used to activate the relay which in turn operates the fan. Your running a fan not a night light. I've tried wiring things that pulled some power like stated above and have always burn toggles out rather quickly.. do it right, use a relay.

 

[STANGNUM]

Thanks

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will look into a relay and dcc controller combo. Hopefully that takes care of this problem..

 

[HISSIN50]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will look into a relay and dcc controller combo. Hopefully that takes care of this problem..

It's not a combo but rather one or the other.

The Dc Control unit is the best way to fly - and everything you need comes in the kit.

As everyone said, please dont do the battery through toggle switch method - you've had enough issues with hot toggles as it is.


Good luck.

 

[GreatWhite]

Do you need any additional relays with the FK-35 since it's only rated at 35amps?

 

[green]

no i just thought that it would have been a quick fix for the time being, also i use the toggle switch on 2 cars now a 6 cylinder and 4 cylinder and never ever had a problem. but could be a diffrent situation on a v8.

 

[HISSIN50]

Do you need any additional relays with the FK-35 since it's only rated at 35amps?

No additional relays for the DcController (a relay is an on off switch of sorts, and the nature of the Dc Controller is to be continuously variability). It's kinda like a using an on/off switch for your dining room light compared to a round rheostat light switch (the latter letting you use infinite light settings because it's variable).

The FK-35 has every single part you need as I recall - you need to buy nothing (except dress-up stuff like wire loom).

You can talk to Brian but the 35 amp unit can handle a LOT of fan because of how it ramps up (guys are running Mark 8 fans on it). One thing that wipes out conventional 'Relays' is the start-up voltage spike - the Dc Unit, by design, doesnt allow this.

Good luck.

 

[GreatWhite]

right on, only 110 bucks left to my fan install...haha

 

[STANGNUM]

Well I ended up buying a electric fan relay kit, wired to a on/off switch. It's working out well all for about $30. Wiring is pretty straightforward now, no mixmatching crap like before. Thanks for the help..