I am sure many of you have changed to a electric water pump at some time. What kind of HP gain did you see with the electric pump. Or what kind of a ET increase did you see with the switch.
Saw about 6-8 RWHP from reducing parasitic loss, you’ll need to change your Belt length, unless you purchase a MEZIERE electric water pump, or similar that has an idler pulley so you still use the OE belt and route it the same..
You also have to understand it’s an increased load on the Battery, and the Alternator will have to make up for that, eventually. So, you’ll gain up front, but lose in another way over time with the slight additional electric load. Good luck!
I apologize that nobody piped in, if they never ran one it would be a counterproductive answer, you were looking for someone whose ran them, or running one. Additionally, YAV8- I have Electric water pumps installed on my 96’ SVT Cobra, 89’ 5.0, 08’ GT, my 79’ Z-28’s LS-6 based 532CID Stroker, and my 67’ Kellison X-300GT Astra’s 68’ L79 327. They are excellent in terms of reliability, you can really feel reduced drag in throttle response and GPH flow capabilities are nearly TWICE that of an OE water pump. Much more clean look.
It’s not really necessary to have that excess flow, though it’s helpful in FI Motors and those running lots of NOS, where combustion temperatures rise sharply.
I find it useful to run the Pump circuit with a 555 Timing Chip in the circuit (or a temperature activated switch, time delay relay) to allow it to circulate water after you shut the Motor down, along with an electric fan so the motors effectively cooled off quite a bit further after shutdown, I shoot for 140 degrees(F). Can’t hurt.
They do give an aesthetically appealing look when you pop the Hood, and save the Motor from overheating and stranding you should you lose a belt, buys extra time to get home or somewhere to repair it. Did save me once. Proform & others are great, as I’d said previously, best are the ones with Idler’s installed for a simple install.
I can’t say for certain on E.T. Time improvements, as I’ve installed them with other components simultaneously, if I had to guess- around the same as installing underdrive pulleys, a couple tenths.
If you have any questions regarding this, feel free!
Thanks for the come back. I was just looking for the ET drop if I need it. The last one I built I put a little more motor in it then I needed. Had to pull 4 degrees of timing out and add 300lbs to slow it down for the class. I only got to run two weekend last year and I would need to drop 4ths to hit the mark. I would think other people would have some info with running a electric pump.
Not much HP change, engine masters did a good episode on this and accessories robbing HP in general a few months ago. Big benefit IMO is being able to cool down much faster between runs at the strip as previously mentioned.
Hi, MEZIERE and a few other EWP Manufacturers actually have an Idler with an identical diameter Water Pump idler Pulley mounted to them, so you may reinstall the belt as you normally would, using your original Belt.
This isn’t the first time this was done, the new belt length required is known & available online, may be included with the new electric water pump, it’s Mfg, or Parts vendor you purchase it from.I.e. Summit, A.Muscle, CJ Pony, etc..
I only had to measure out one, all my other Cars I’d previously shown that have idlers on them, the new belt length required was easily available through one of the above sources.
IF you HAD to, (unlikely will, but it’s easy). A crude, yet simple & accurate method is by mocking it up by measuring the required length using the original Belt, or an old one that you Cut & run around all the belt driven accessories, marking it with a Sharpie to calculate the length required, adding about 1/4-3/8” that the tensioner will take up, cut to correct length & Tape together with duct tape, once you’re happy with it, bring it to the parts store to match it up.
for the tensioner.. Tape it it so it is JUST able to
fit over the pulleys, once installing the new belt, the belt tensioner will tighten the slack.
This link shows a MEZIERE Electric Pump with an Idler installed, there are others like AEM that are cheaper & also have an idler, or the Belt # to be used based on your accessories, so you don’t have to mock it up to find the correct Belt size.. These are expensive, an AEM is a very, very good pump & Costs half as much, just for reference.. https://www.meziere.com/Products/Co...B-High-Flow-Street-Pump-55GPM-with-Idler.aspx
If you have any issues, add to this thread & I or another will help you get it straightened out..
Good luck! John
Can I assume you are running a drag only car and running the water pump off the battery? Because - assuming mechanical and electrical pumps with identical flow parameters - if you are running it off an alternator there will be a power loss because of energy conversion losses going from mechanical to electrical and back to mechanical.
still not shure about that Electric WP stuff ..found this... does anyone run this pump or can I run the mechanical and this electric additional, to cool down engine after race ..this pump can be mounted in the lower hose .. ??maybe affects flow when just running mechanical pump..? Davies Craig 8005 Electric Water Pump 80l/minute
I think I know wich way Ill try to go with the new cooling system... I will install a Davies Craig Remote Water Pump (130 Lt/min) into the lower Hose from Radiator with a old WP I had, but "empty" so I can use reuse the Belt and I dont have to buy the DC Block Plate (100$). keeps the original look but without Power loss from mecanical Pump .. should be good for my 331..??!! I also have the Proform Pump here ..looks nice and clean... and comes with all you need to install ..
Still thinking on this I see.. Removing the W.P. impeller would likely work. The article posted above advertises 80l/Min, or about 21 GPM(?)). 120l/min is about 31GPM.
Good related article: https://www.dragzine.com/tech-stori...al-water-pumps-which-is-best-for-streetstrip/
Keep in mind the coolant flow direction varies in different engines. Not sure of your specifics, & you may already realize this, but If your Foxbody motor has a serpentine belt, then your water pump is a reverse rotation type (same direction as the Crank pulley). The V-belt equipped Mustangs have standard rotation water pumps. Just be certain the electric pump circulates coolant as it did, to avoid any potential issues. Good luck!
what matters the Pump rotation if empty ?? the Water pressure comes now from the remote pump and not from the mecanical ..can also buy a shorter Belt and not running anymore the empty stock pump ..Water will be pressed into the block thrue the pump housing ..and done..
Yes, that’s correct. The direction the mech.pump’s pulley rotates with no impeller installed makes absolutely no difference, whatsoever. It’s now a belt routing idler. As worded, i’d left the comment open for accidental misinterpretation. My bad. So, simplified, verify the Coolant flow is going in the same direction with the electric pump, as it was with the previous mechanically driven pump. Inline Electric pumps are mass produced for multiple app’s, and many capable of running equally effective in either direction.
I’ve installed both bolt on, and remote electric pumps, in-line pumps, some w/arrows cast-in indicating flow being a certain direction, I’d encountered a couple electrically driven pumps that were actually rotating the opposite direction than the arrows indicated. Just wanted to convey that. Unlikely, but worth mentioning. Since they are basic DC motors, isolated from direct ground, reversing rotation is simply inverting the (2) input wires at the plug.
In addition, by using the Mechanical pump housing as an idler, the coolant crossover path will allow flow across each side, as original. The original smaller coolant flow inlets, i.e. heater core, etc..if used -can be connected, running the inline pump.
Depending on how you trigger the electric Pump, Thermal switch, Semiconductor time delay, etc., consider adding a backup Circuit, running an under dash mount, 15A DPST toggle with a slamswitch & LED (Reminding you it’s enabled, in lieu of later finding a dead battery). It’ll provide the pump power, manually- should the primary triggering Circuit fail.
Good idea to do it now, while you’re in wiring mode, good to have a backup. Good luck!
OK.... this is the Block Adaptor DC sells to eliminate the WP .. maybe one day i m gonna buy this one too ... but first lets see how the pump works befor spending more money...